Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello everybody my name is kenny and im new here on the site. i live in sweden and is also a member in the swedish version.

Anyway i just have som questions about the apexi safc (ive been searching and looking at all kinds of threads but havent got a real good answer yet)

I bought myself a z32 afm and im going to install it this weekend and wondering about if theres any setting on the safc, when i look at the manual from apexi website i see that there is a setting just for z32 afm (hotwire 4), so will the z32 afm work on my car if i change the sensor settings on the safc?

The other question is what AFR is the best? the car is a skyline r33 Gtst, im going to trie to tune it on the road we have long and good roads here in sweden :blink: i have already bought a aem wideband so i can check so nothing goes wrong!

Offtopic here: i must say that after all my looking around in the forum, you guys are really good at answering peoples questions! thats why i became a member here! well i hope some of you guys have some good answers for me :D

(excuse the english, as said before im from sweden :thumbsup: )

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/333689-tune-apexi-safc-with-z32-afm/
Share on other sites

if your making enough power to warrant a Z32 you really should get a standalone ECU

the SAFC really is a basic piggyback patchjob and youll find much more gains and a better overall from a stand alone

have you looked into a stand alone like a powerfc or a remap (nistune) or another stand alone ecu?

for full load your AF/R should be 12 to 12.5 and for light cruise you can go as lean as 15.0 to get some good economy

if your making enough power to warrant a Z32 you really should get a standalone ECU

the SAFC really is a basic piggyback patchjob and youll find much more gains and a better overall from a stand alone

have you looked into a stand alone like a powerfc or a remap (nistune) or another stand alone ecu?

for full load your AF/R should be 12 to 12.5 and for light cruise you can go as lean as 15.0 to get some good economy

I aint making enough power :thumbsup: i just got the Z32 for a good price so why not fit it was my thought :blink:

I have looked into stand alone ecu but the SAFC was in the car when i bought it so i was thinking that i maybe could use that one for now, and then maybe later if more mods would come buy a stand alone one!

My mods are just:

Fmic

3" exhaust with no cat

Apexi air filter

Boost at 0.8 bar (dont know what that is in psi)

Apexi safc (not tuned)

Z32 afm

I aint making enough power :thumbsup: i just got the Z32 for a good price so why not fit it was my thought :blink:

There is no point.

There is zero benefit to fitting it for the mods you have.

It will not give you anything other than a bill for a retune

Sell it, and keep the status quo

There is no point.

There is zero benefit to fitting it for the mods you have.

It will not give you anything other than a bill for a retune

Sell it, and keep the status quo

okey zero benefit :thumbsup: but is there any bad things from installing it? :blink:

There appears to be some posts missing on this

Think you asked when the switch over for hi and low throttle was

hi 50%

low 35%

this is for a 8 point adjustment

ne points come in at 1.5%

ne 1 is 2.5%

ne 2 is 4.5%

need any more help

There appears to be some posts missing on this

Think you asked when the switch over for hi and low throttle was

hi 50%

low 35%

this is for a 8 point adjustment

ne points come in at 1.5%

ne 1 is 2.5%

ne 2 is 4.5%

need any more help

Thank you very much, i dont want to start a new thread so i will hope for an answer here for this one!

im about to mount the aem wideband sensor and is looking around on the downpipe where to put it? do i have to take down the downpipe from the car or what is the easiest way to do it? need help really fast! :D

From my understanding and what I have read is that to use a z32 afm with safc / safc2 you have to play with the in out numbers. In representing the number for the z32 afm and out being the number that represents the r33 gts25t ecu etc if you get the drift. Am not 100% sure so please feel free to correct me if I am wrong.

From what I have read on these forums its seems there is no reason to go to a z32 afm unless you are making 230rwkw or more.

One last thing

What should the ne points be set as? there are 8 ne points on the safc 1 right?

You can have a 16 point correction map or at least you can with a neo

This would be a good start below as what your trying to sort out occurs around 4 to 5 k

ne 1 1000

ne 2 2000

ne 3 3000

ne 4 4000

ne 5 5000

ne 6 5500

ne 7 6000

ne 8 7000

depending on mods and this is a complete stab in the dark you might be looking at around an average -5% or -6% on hi throttle throughout the rev range with no change until 6 and 7 k of about -7% on low throttle

but like i said its a stab in the dark and nothing more but would be interested to see how close it is

Edited by jjskyline79
You can have a 16 point correction map or at least you can with a neo

This would be a good start below as what your trying to sort out occurs around 4 to 5 k

ne 1 1000

ne 2 2000

ne 3 3000

ne 4 4000

ne 5 5000

ne 6 5500

ne 7 6000

ne 8 7000

depending on mods and this is a complete stab in the dark you might be looking at around an average -5% or -6% on hi throttle throughout the rev range with no change until 6 and 7 k of about -7% on low throttle

but like i said its a stab in the dark and nothing more but would be interested to see how close it is

thanks man i will try that, and as soon as i have got it leaned out i will type down how many % i had to lean and at what rpm, just for fun ;) i know you cant just tune any car after another but it could be fun to see how much i have to lean out to get the right AFR

"Flat spot" may also be standard feature of ecu. You may be able to improve things a little with safc but probaly need chipped or replacement ecu to fix it.

there arent any chip to the rb25det right? and you might be right and if the safc cant fix i will have to try something else :touch:

Yes Nistune is not available for the S1 and S2 (non neo) RB25 ecu but if you have a manual you can fit an R32 or other ecu and Nistune that. There is a lttle stuffing around invoved and you need to get some system for switching the vct. Better still is a new Link ecu or if that's too expensive maybe an Apexi PFC if you can find the correct model at the right price. The SAFC will be better than nothing but forget the Z32afm for now. If you decide to get a Link later you won't need an AFM at all.

Link website: http://www.linkecu.com/

Swedish Dealers: http://www.motornord.se/system/webshop.asp...3&HSID=3054

Motor Nord AB

Bjorneborgsgatan 49,

PO Box 708 85131,

Sundsvall.

Tel: +46 60-157 400

Fax: +46 60-157 405

Yes Nistune is not available for the S1 and S2 (non neo) RB25 ecu but if you have a manual you can fit an R32 or other ecu and Nistune that. There is a lttle stuffing around invoved and you need to get some system for switching the vct. Better still is a new Link ecu or if that's too expensive maybe an Apexi PFC if you can find the correct model at the right price. The SAFC will be better than nothing but forget the Z32afm for now. If you decide to get a Link later you won't need an AFM at all.

Link website: http://www.linkecu.com/

Swedish Dealers: http://www.motornord.se/system/webshop.asp...3&HSID=3054

Motor Nord AB

Bjorneborgsgatan 49,

PO Box 708 85131,

Sundsvall.

Tel: +46 60-157 400

Fax: +46 60-157 405

I was under the impressions that you can use a z32 ecu with the r33 skylines to retain vvt. Just needs some minor rewiring. If you go on the nistune website im sure they mention their soloutions there for the r33 skyline.

Cheers

i would just hold onto the z32 afm for now until you have a proper set up that can fully utilize it.

i have the same set up as you pretty much,,

-a pod but just switched back to panel and airbox.

-split dump and 3inch exhaust all the way.

-10 psi actuator but running closer to 14psi.

-safc neo with zeitronix wideband.

install the afc and wideband and take a crack and road tuning. you will notice a difforence.

crappy thing is you can adust fuel all the want but you cant adjust timing so you wont be able to make it perfect which is why the pfc or nistune ect is used. but go nuts,, have fun,, learn and be careful. dont let it go too lean !

throw down here what you ended up using for the rpm settings and ill stick mine down just for curiosity sake.

if u find your still having a bad flat spot make sure you check the condition if your fuel pump, coilpacks and sparkpugs.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can perhaps see how the R33 appreciators would think so.  
    • Thanks, I removed the fuse and the relay from the car and made my own circuit with them to test them with a test bulb.  I will look for the wiring diagram and go from there.
    • Jdm DC2R is also nice for a FF car compared to the regular hatches of the time.
    • Now that the break-in period for both clutch and transmission is nearly over I'd like to give some tips before I forget about everything that happened, also for anyone searching up how to do this job in the future: You will need at least 6 ton jack stands at full extension. I would go as far as to say maybe consider 12 ton jack stands because the height of the transmission + the Harbor Freight hydraulic platform-style transmission jack was enough that it was an absolute PITA getting the transmission out from under the car and back in. The top edge of the bellhousing wants to contact the subframe and oil pan and if you're doing this on the floor forget about trying to lift this transmission off the ground and onto a transmission jack from under the car. Also do not try to use a scissor jack transmission lift. You have to rotate the damn thing in-place on the transmission jack which is hard enough with an adjustable platform and a transmission cradle that will mostly keep the transmission from rolling off the jack but on a scissor lift with a tiny non-adjustable platform? Forget it. Use penetrating oil on the driveshaft bolts. I highly recommend getting a thin 6 point combination (box end + open end) wrench for both the rear driveshaft and front driveshaft and a wrench extension. These bolts are on tight with very little space to work with and those two things together made a massive difference. Even a high torque impact wrench is just the wrong tool for the job here and didn't do what I needed it to do. If your starter bolts aren't seized in place for whatever reason you can in fact snake in a 3/8 inch ratchet + 6 point standard chrome socket up in there and "just" remove the bolts for the starter. Or at least I could. It is entirely by feel, you can barely fit it in, you can barely turn the stupid ratchet, but it is possible. Pull the front pipe/downpipe before you attempt to remove the transmission. In theory you don't have to, in practice just do it.  When pulling the transmission on the way out you don't have to undo all the bolts holding the rear driveshaft to the chassis like the center support bearing and the rear tunnel reinforcement bar but putting the transmission back in I highly recommend doing this because it will let you raise the transmission without constantly dealing with the driveshaft interfering in one way or another. I undid the bottom of the engine mount but I honestly don't know that it helped anything. If you do this make sure you put a towel on the back of the valve cover to keep the engine from smashing all the pipes on the firewall. Once the transmission has been pulled back far enough to clear the dowels you need to twist it in place clockwise if you're sitting behind the transmission. This will rotate the starter down towards the ground. The starter bump seems like it might clear if you twist the transmission the other way but it definitely won't. I have scraped the shit out of my transmission tunnel trying so learn from my mistake. You will need a center punch and an appropriate size drill bit and screw to pull the rear main seal. Then use vice grips and preferably a slide hammer attachment for those vice grips to yank the seal out. Do not let the drill or screw contact any part of the crank and clean the engine carefully after removing the seal to avoid getting metal fragments into the engine. I used a Slide Hammer and Bearing Puller Set, 5 Piece from Harbor Freight to pull the old pilot bearing. The "wet paper towel" trick sucked and just got dirty clutch water everywhere. Buy the tool or borrow it from a friend and save yourself the pain. It comes right out. Mine was very worn compared to the new one and it was starting to show cracks. Soak it in engine oil for a day in case yours has lost all of the oil to the plastic bag it comes in. You may be tempted to get the Nismo aftermarket pilot bearing but local mechanics have told me that they fail prematurely and if they do fail they do far more damage than a failed OEM pilot bushing. I mentioned this before but the Super Coppermix Twin clutch friction disks are in fact directional. The subtle coning of the fingers in both cases should be facing towards the center of the hub. So the coning on the rearmost disk closest to the pressure plate should go towards the engine, and the one closest to the flywheel should be flipped the other way. Otherwise when you torque down the pressure plate it will be warped and if you attempt to drive it like this it will make a very nasty grinding noise. Also, there is in fact an orientation to the washers for the pressure plate if you don't want to damage the anodizing. Rounded side of the washer faces the pressure plate. The flat side faces the bolt head. Pulling the transmission from the transfer case you need to be extremely careful with the shift cover plate. This part is discontinued. Try your best to avoid damaging the mating surfaces or breaking the pry points. I used a dead blow rubber hammer after removing the bolts to smack it sideways to slide it off the RTV the previous mechanic applied. I recommend using gasket dressing on the OEM paper gasket to try and keep the ATF from leaking out of that surface which seems to be a perpetual problem. Undoing the shifter rod end is an absolute PITA. Get a set of roll pin punches. Those are mandatory for this. Also I strongly, strongly recommend getting a palm nailer that will fit your roll pin punch. Also, put a clean (emphasis on clean) towel wrapped around the back end of the roll pin to keep it from shooting into the transfer case so you can spend a good hour or two with a magnet on a stick getting it out. Do not damage the shifter rod end either because those are discontinued as well. Do not use aftermarket flywheel bolts. Or if you do, make sure they are exactly the same dimensions as OEM before you go to install them. I have seen people mention that they got the wrong bolts and it meant having to do the job again. High torque impact wrench makes removal easy. I used some combination of a pry bar and flathead screwdriver to keep the flywheel from turning but consider just buying a proper flywheel lock instead. Just buy the OS Giken clutch alignment tool from RHDJapan. I hated the plastic alignment tool and you will never be confident this thing will work as intended. Don't forget to install the Nismo provided clutch fork boot. Otherwise it will make unearthly noises when you press the clutch pedal as it says on the little installation sheet in Japanese. Also, on both initial disassembly and assembly you must follow torque sequence for the pressure plate bolts. For some reason the Nismo directions tell you to put in the smaller 3 bolts last. I would not do this. Fully insert and thread those bolts to the end first, then tighten the other larger pressure plate bolts according to torque sequence. Then at the end you can also torque these 3 smaller bolts. Doing it the other way can cause these bolts to bind and the whole thing won't fit as it should. Hope this helps someone out there.
×
×
  • Create New...