Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys, really anoying problem. Been to pedders and they suck! sorry if you work there. Hopfully one of you skyline buffs will help me out.

Ok i have a r32 (rear wheel drive) And it is chewing through front tyres like there's no tomorrow :D

Rear tyres have lasted me nearly a year.

-No camber wear

-even wear passenger/drivers side.

-The car has demolished a set of good year eagle F1 and advan's somthings in less than 3000'ks

-car drives fine. No bumpyness. smooth no shakey steering wheel even at 100+kph

Pedders recommended replacing every bush in the whole car front and rear and then they can do a wheel alignment?

But this dosnt seem to be an alignment problem as its all even wear. (Sorry if im a noob there)

Unless i have a secret special edition front wheel drive skyline....... its got me F**D

Thanks for any advice in advance :cool:

Has the car ever been damaged?

If so, have you had a friend follow you to check if the car is crabbing (ie moving forward, but at a scewed angle)?

...just a thought if other issues have been checked.

What's Pedder's diagnosis of bushes, ball joints, rack etc? Alignment will need to be checked no matter what - re: toe in/out etc.

Thanks for the replys

tyre wear is right in the center. Possible wearing passenger side tyre a little quicker than drivers.

Toe is something i didn't think of!!that would make sense.

OH! pedders said the steering rack is leaking internally. Dunno what that means but im not losing any fluids.

They wouldn't do a wheel alignment until i fixed all the stuff (said they would just make it worse =|

Also The front wheels are 18x9 -4 offset with 225 tyres. So track is increased. could this ring alarm bells?

thanks again.

Wear down the centre is generally a sign of over-inflation of the tyres.

Don't think a -4 offset (considering standard is about +35) would be helping things at all.

Yea i thought the -4 offset could have something to do with it, But cant see physically how. yes track increased.but still even wear

I think it affects what's called the "scrub radius" - ask the guys at Pedders about it.

Or read about it here: http://www.familycar.com/alignment.htm#Scrub%20Radius

Thats a really good article. Recommended for any with limited Suspension knowledge.

thanks.

However doesn't explain my problem as my car doesn't pull one way at 100kph

I think im going to get a nolathane bush kit tomorow. and have a crack it putting it in my self =p

good luck with the kit mate u will need some special press tools and a press 2 do the kit unless u buy complete adjustable arms from just jap or some thing like that even then u will still need some expert knowledge unless u dont mind getting stuck and not able 2 tow ur car cause u cant put urwheels back on cause ur suspension is half pulled apart lols (seen it b4 man) so my advice is spitt up the coin and grt it done right the first time

good luck with the kit mate u will need some special press tools and a press 2 do the kit unless u buy complete adjustable arms from just jap or some thing like that even then u will still need some expert knowledge unless u dont mind getting stuck and not able 2 tow ur car cause u cant put urwheels back on cause ur suspension is half pulled apart lols (seen it b4 man) so my advice is spitt up the coin and grt it done right the first time

Very true!! however I have a 10 tonne press in the shed =)

And if i get stuck! Petrol + lighter = job done. nah joke.. old mans a fitter/turner. He should be able to get me out of trouble.

Has anyone do it before?? out of 10, how hard is it.

BTW! pedders were going to charge $1800 to do it. F**K that.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Meh, At 60 years old, I have been doing dumb stuff for much longer than you mate, I am the true King And unfortunately I cannot be a maroon, as I am not brownish red As for not getting ITB's, the plenum intake will apparently show typical gains across the board and increase induction noise a bit, but, have all over less dort than ITB's Cost difference for the extra ITB dorts was significant though, the total parts for the plenum set up is "around" $2kAUD plus shipping, the ITB's were $4kAUD plus shipping, I was contemplating really hard about paying the extra $2k for all of the dorts, but weirdly, some form of common sense, from listening to the platform experts prevailed  As for the NA mod hate by some, I've had a few boosted cars, with all their inherent issues, I'm now looking at simplicity and legalities for a street car, maybe I'm just getting old, and I'm quite happy to spend some of the kids inheritance, 5kw at a time 🤣 And think of all the money I'll be saving on consumables that something with boost needs, like engines, gearboxes, diffs, clutches,  tilt trays... etc. etc. etc. 🤪
    • Haha.  I wouldn't say I am either but I've definitely been around it plenty.  I'm guessing you know the dial in is basically to make a handicap to level the playing field between racers.  The car with the slower dial in goes first and in theory if they run their dial in time and the faster car also does then they cross the finish time if they also have exactly the same reaction time - if you go faster than the dial in them you lose, but if you are too slow there's a good chance the other person will get to the finish line first. I'm normally supporting other cars but they were all pretty dialled and were egging me on to race as well, here's one of the cars I tune (Starlet) which ran within like 1 hundredth of its dial in through the competition: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=inEBu-d9Gn4&t=69s
    • Where ever the fuel reg gets it reference is what I use to T into for map reference been a very long time so where it goes to plenum/runners I have no idea but never had issues. 
    • What ecu? Same shop every time? Same ambient temperature? If timing is correct then pull plugs and see if lean or rich. Dyno can also read different if they have changed ramp rate or not set tacho/speed properly  
    • I've never done dial in's just straight up, whatever that's called. I'm far from a drag (racing ) expert.
×
×
  • Create New...