Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanks for the reply. where exactly should I mount the whide band sensor? 36" from the exhaust lands on the down pipe.

I'm planning on buying a titanium down pipe. would it be a good idea to install the bung on the titanium down pipe?

Ti dump pipe? Why?

I just checked, as I have a Ti bung here. It isn't the correct thread though, too small.

 

Ti dump pipe? Why? 

 

I just checked, as I have a Ti bung here. It isn't the correct thread though, too small. 

Down pipe, mate. I think they're called "front pipes" in planet Oz. As for dump pipes, I have my eyes in the Tomei products. moreover, I'm interested in the AEM non weld bung now that I know something like that exist.

  • 2 weeks later...

Can you guys help me figure out the location and degree of the bung on the following ARC pipe?

According to YAJ, it's a 3" Ti de-cat pipe but I don't know enough of the BNR32's exhaust anatomy to figure out if the bung will be in the correct location/position:

yasu32gtr2000-img600x450-1357210488kipo1

yasu32gtr2000-img600x450-1357210487cfpym

The pipe flanges are in different positions from each other but that is normal according to the many other pictures I've seen of that particular pipe.

The only concern I have is if the bung is facing 10degrees (or more) UP in order to meet the requirements of the BOSCH sensor I have.

10degrees.gif

Is the bung setup to allow my sensor to be at 10degrees?

  • 3 weeks later...

So, I decided to use the front pipes as the install point:

20131006_130737.jpg%255BUNSET%255D.jpg%255BUNSET%255D.jpg

That solved that problem but now I don't know why my AEM gauge does not activate. Is there an on/off switch...?

I found a solid ground and used the 12V from an 'accessory' wire that connects to the radio. I tried different wires, check with a multimeter but still couldn't get the gauge to turn on. I eventually hooked up my gauge to the car battery to see if the 12Vs from that would activate it...

%255BUNSET%255D.jpg%255BUNSET%255D.jpg

Is my gauge broken?

So, I finally got my AEM installed. Turns out that the solder that I had to splice the gauge directly into the corresponding wires. I also had to shave the wires down a little more because the stock solder tips were too thick for proper connection.

BIG thanks for negativecamber so helping me figure it out.

My gauge is working now but what sort of numbers should I be looking for? I went driving for about 15 minutes and the gaue went all over the place: 13.5 to 16.0 (for appx 3-4 seconds)...

(BTW, I've been suspecting that my Mine's VX-ROM needs another tune)

Went all over the place when at a constant RPM/load? Or just while driving normally (e.g fluctuating load and revs?)

At cruise it will fluctuate a bit but should be fairly constant, This also depends on what computer is in the car

If just driving around normally the gauge will jump around. If you put your foot down you should see the gauge start dropping, usually till it hits about 11-12:1 if it is a tuned computer, if its stock ECU then this number could be lower

If you are getting above 12:1 on full load at high RPM then it may be a bit to lean and need a retune

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, this is probably where a wiring diagram and a multimeter come into play.
    • I can say to anyone thats doing this; having done a number of R clusters; just be careful if its an unknown cluster.  It takes a bit of force to pull up; but if it feels excessive then its probably stuck. I've had this and pulled the entire hair spring out; and I can tell you; its not easy getting the correct spring replacement with the correct inner diameter and winding. In my case someone had used some sort of adhesive to stick it to the spindle and it pulled the whole spindle out; which the force seperated the hairspring from the spindal and caused it to deform.  You may have to clean it (IPA); or in my case if i'd known i should have used some sort of solvent on it.  Also check out Cruizin Central on eBay. He does all sorts of dials; and you can email him with any custom designs you want. So if you want like certain logos etc...he'll send you a mock of what it will look like then you accept the order and he'll take care of the rest. Fantastic dials and he can do basically any design you want. 
    • Have you confirmed its the actual axles? Also the wheel bearings that mount on the hubs to hold the axles wear out. I replaced mine as they got play in them. It sorted my play issue. 
    • Ive converted a few clusters for the R33 with 320km/h dials. On the back there are some pads which can be bridged or unbridged (using solder or wick braid) to calibrate it. There is one bridge which is for MPH <> KPH; and there are combinations of bridges to offset it. There is probably a diagram  For example; this is my conversion for a 180km/h dial to a 320km/h dial (I put custom GT-R dials on it with the GTS25t layout) If you have J2 soldered (assuming the S clusters have a similar config to the R clusters); you may need to remove that solder
    • Back on topic 😉, these are some of the notable pages from the booklets that are supplied with each weekly parts update. I never knew the BNR32 test mule car had an S13 Silvia front end... *Edit: On closer inspection the test car still had the R32 body, but only the front end had Silvia panels etc.
×
×
  • Create New...