Jump to content
SAU Community

What Gasket And Do I Need To Weld Block Water Jacket

30ed32

By 30ed32,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

30ed32 Enthusiast

30ed32

Posted
Posted

I need a bit of help here with those two things believe me I have searched and haven't found a definite answer. So the plan is to have use a rb25de head from a r33 and a rb30 block, from what I've found people are saying it doesn't matter what head gasket I use, 25 and 30 will both work. Although I am trying to save money where I can here and would prefer to not have to get the block welded and machined flat again. Some say its recommended to weld the water jacket on the block so that you have more surface sealing the water, but can't I just use a rb30 head gasket and everything will be alright? Going from these pictures that I have found:

30 gasket on 30:

http://www4.wave.co.nz/~lakewood/Skyline/R...s-RB30Block.jpg

25 gasket on 30:

http://www4.wave.co.nz/~lakewood/Skyline/R...-RB25Gasket.jpg

The oil gallery on the head will be seal obviously, most likely by using a grub screw as some people have used and it seems cheaper. So if the vvt feed is blocked on the head is it alright to use a rb30 HG so that the water jacket will seal better?

Thank you

jarrod83 Community Regular

jarrod83

Posted
Posted

compare both gaskets with the rb25de head, you should be able to see what gasket works best for you.

I used the rb30 gasket with a rb25det head, but i already had to modify the head to block the vct oil feed so i just added some meat on the head while i was at it, personally id make the modifications to the head so that if you ever needed to replace the block, it would be a lot easier

Jarrod

30ed32 Enthusiast

30ed32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the feedback guys, I was under the impression that it was the block that needed to be welded and machined to suit the gasket. Thats what I gathered from this picture anyway.

http://www4.wave.co.nz/~lakewood/Skyline/R...30%20Gasket.jpg

30ed32 Enthusiast

30ed32

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
Use an RB30 or RB26 gasket and with 25DET it's the head that needs welded.

Oh thats good, I'll be using a 25DE head so that saves me some hassle. I also have a 25DET head so I can compare the differences when i take the 25DE head off the motor. Anyway using RB30 or RB26 head gasket, I won't have to weld a bigger area on the block? Or is that wrong?

Edited by 30ed32
fletch rb30 Enthusiast

fletch rb30

Posted
Posted

r33 25de and det heads are the same.

the engine builder we use uses an aluminium mig welder and fills in the front water port a bit and fills in the oil feed then gives the head a skim. Its not very expensive.

By doing that you can fit the head to any unmodified rb30 block and use any rb30, rb26 or r32 rb25 gasket

30ed32 Enthusiast

30ed32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

sweet, I'm in Hamilton btw and only know one engine place here and don't think they will do it and if they did it they would charge a lot. Hopefully I can find another one.. it's not really worth the trip up to Auckland unless i can't find anyone.

jarrod83 Community Regular

jarrod83

Posted
Posted

the de head doesnt have the vct so it doesnt have the vct oil feed in the head that has to be blocked like the det head, it didnt take long or cost me much to get the head welded, took them maybe 5 mins to weld some metal in.. they let me die grind it abit, they smoothed it up, then the head got deck

Jarrod

fletch rb30 Enthusiast

fletch rb30

Posted
Posted
sweet, I'm in Hamilton btw and only know one engine place here and don't think they will do it and if they did it they would charge a lot. Hopefully I can find another one.. it's not really worth the trip up to Auckland unless i can't find anyone.

give Dick a call at hytech engine reconditioners in manukau. only an hour away from you. they have done all the heads for me and my friends rb30's. dont remember what it cost, but it was a reasonable price and he has done plenty of them

the de head doesnt have the vct so it doesnt have the vct oil feed in the head that has to be blocked like the det head,

Jarrod

the r33 head does, just not the r32

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted
the de head doesnt have the vct so it doesnt have the vct oil feed in the head that has to be blocked like the det head, it didnt take long or cost me much to get the head welded, took them maybe 5 mins to weld some metal in.. they let me die grind it abit, they smoothed it up, then the head got deck

Jarrod

the r33 head does, just not the r32

R32 RB25DE head is straight plug and play, no modifications necessary.

R33 RB25DE/T heads have to be welded up.

30ed32 Enthusiast

30ed32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks everyone for clearing that up. Maybe it would be easier to pick up a cheap r32 25de head? This is going into an R33 btw, and I have heard something about the intake manifolds not fitting or something? Would the 32 head be plug and play in a r33 using all the r33 parts that attach to the head?

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted
thanks everyone for clearing that up. Maybe it would be easier to pick up a cheap r32 25de head? This is going into an R33 btw, and I have heard something about the intake manifolds not fitting or something? Would the 32 head be plug and play in a r33 using all the r33 parts that attach to the head?

The intake manifold bolt layout is different, the R32 RB25DE head is the same as RB20 and R33 RB25 intake manifold don't fit on RB20 heads.

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

I am using an RB25DE head retaining the VVT. I understand they have bigger valves than the RB25DET heads. Gasket is a Tomei RB25 item.

+1 for ringing Dick at Hytech engines - he does a lot of RB30 stuff and you can always courier him the head if necessary although its just over an hour's drive away if you need to take the block in.

30ed32 Enthusiast

30ed32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeah thanks guys i think thats my best bet is taking the head to hytec and get them to match the gasket.. some people are saying head some are saying block? I guess i'll have a look when i get the heads off and compare gaskets and go from there.

30ed32 Enthusiast

30ed32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks I remember seeing that a while ago i just forgot, it doesn't look like there was any extra welded on... just vvt blocked and the hole reshaped, but thats probably just me not looking closely enough. Thanks for all your help I will take head into hytec and get them to sort it out for me.

30ed32 Enthusiast

30ed32

Posted
  • Author
Posted
definately 100% the head thats needs modifying

awesome.. just hope its cheap enough and i hope this helps someone else out in the future, maybe I'm just a bad researcher but I couldn't find such definite answers anywhere else. Thanks guys should be running in a few weeks hopefully once I have all the parts

  • 2 weeks later...
Gerg_R31 Mentor

Gerg_R31

Posted
Posted

all rb25's run same size valves, rb26 valve heads are 1mm bigger then the rb25

the rb25's with vvt have an oil return under the intake cam, which fouls with the water jacket in the rb30 which will mix water and oil, dont want to weld it? tap it and lock tite a grub screw in, want to still use vvt or just drain the oil tap the hole in the front

there is no other welding needed

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yucky. Things haven't gotten any better though. Now you have Emerson and Honeywell pushing these massive DCS/Scada things with proprietary hardware. They're not a PLC, they're not a computer, they're a...distibuted PLCish/DCSish monster of thing, that only they can program because they make the barriers to entry for anyone else so fricking high. And their developers are all located in the third/developing world (and India, in case anyone does not include that place in that category) and there are terrible failings of the ESl variety, of the care and common sense variety, and f**king forget about Functional Safety. Not a one of them has any idea what it means to comply with an IEC 615xx series standard.
    • niZmO_Man
      Is r33 gtr steering wheel the same as the gtst?

      By niZmO_Man · Posted

      oi (you're right though)
    • pogman
      Low oil pressure after WOT

      By pogman · Posted

      All of the ECU grounds are to the chassis, the IGN grounds are to the cylinder head and i believe all the OEM body harness are left in original locations, im trying to work out if i can tell if the sensor voltage itself is losing any power to it from the very low ECU voltage. But yeah a manual pressure gauge will help in picking which path to actually chase. Also please dont bully my wiring plan i never designed it to be universally understood hopefully it still can make sense to you, im a wiring virgin.  1 thing i have just noticed the pressure sensor in question relays both pressure and temperature, the temperature reading holds nice and steady despite the low ecu voltage but the pressure reading is the one that jumps around alot so maybe it is really a pressure issue? wiring plan.xlsx
    • Yeetus
      RB25DET Solid lifter conversion

      By Yeetus · Posted

      Gday, Due to not finding much up to date info on this topic I thought I'd make a thread to get peoples latest opinions/recommendations. Background info -  I've got a S1.5 R33 GTST as a fun project car, mainly for street use and occasional drag strip, apart from all the cosmetic things I'll be doing a full rebuild of the engine with forged internals. Since it'll be getting new cams (kelford) and springs to match I thought I might as well get new lifters and valves while I'm at it, the dash says 160k KMs but the engine seems pretty tired, compression measures about 130psi across all cylinders so I'd like to freshen everything up. This is where I'm tempted to just fork out the extra and go solid lifters while it's all apart, aiming for 400-450kw atw with a flex tune. Assuming all supporting mods (oiling, fuel and all bolt ons) with a lightly ported head and turbo to match (yet to make a decision possibly gtx3582r or similar from Hypergear) I've seen the Tomei kits with just the buckets getting around, Supertech sells most things - Supertech High Performance Cam Followers | Trusted Racing Cam Followers Questions -  Has anyone found the Hydraulic lifters to limit them at this power level? Is it usually found that you can just clean the stock lifters and find they work fine?  Does going solid lifters save any headaches/issues with hydraulic lifters in the future? Any recommendations on other things that will need to be replaced, I know I'll need to get the solid profile cams but can you use the same type of valves and springs/retainers and is it recommended to change the guides and stem seals?    Summary -  Basically looking for pros/cons and wanna know if I'll actually need the extra RPMs from solid lifters or it'll just be bragging rights to say it ReVs OvEr 8000 Cheers
    • MBS206
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Ha ha ha, this stuff they had was installing Toshiba PLCs that were made some time in the 1990s, and they were replacing GEM80 PLCs. To let those two talk (staged upgrade along a ~1.2km long building that was split into 4 sections), was a bunch of WinXP machines running Java gateways... There was no way to put something like ProfiSafe in... Most of the HMI machines were WinXP, with Java program, with a custom button board emulating a keyboard... About the only buttons in the operator stations that went direct to the PLCs was the eStop. There was some interesting design stuff in that place...
×
×
  • Create New...