Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi everyone,

i have a harsh airflow drop after ~6300 rpm, at aproximately ~4,4v at Z32 MAF. It feels like i just lift foot of the pedal. When i look at the Datalogit charts i can see that the airflow drops earlier than boost.

I suspected the stock rubber suction pipe being sucked inside under boost and just changed it to a silicon type ebay item enforced with metal rings. I also changed the air filter to the new apexi panel filter in the stock box. but no use.

the cars still shuts after ~6300 rpm.

what else can it be? some kind of full-throttle compressor surge or what? is there any way to diagnose suction pipe sucking itself on the road without a dyno?

p.s. it`s rb25 with rb26 crank and rb26 forgies, hks 256/8,8 cams and GT2871R (without port shroud) running 0.8 - 1 bar boost.

thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/333769-the-car-shuts-after-6000-rpm/
Share on other sites

Check exhaust? does boost drop off? timing etc.

boost drops _after_ airflow.

timing is ok.

exhaust... it`s a split dump pipe from ebay, frontpipe + decat pipe in one piece and fujitsubo exhaiust. the only new part is a splitdump but it seems ok. how should i check it?

and one more thing: usually the first run at is ok -- the car pulls ok to the redline. but other runs at 1 bar have this problem. On very hot days after traffic the problem appears even at 0.8bar.

i had a very similar problem and it turned out to be bad coils. gets worse as you run more boost, and the sudden drop is very violent, mine also performed slightly better in colder conditions.. if its the coils then you run the risk of doing damage to your bearings if you continue to drive it like this. whatever it is, stay off the boost/revs until its fixed

Knock sensors, you get 1 rev to red line then it will retard once its gets to a certain rpm untill the ignition is turned off then back on.

to check this, just turn engine off while moving then turn on again and rev right through to red line to see if its gone and then returns

on next gear rev to red line.

Faulty AFM?

Try swapping with another.

but what is it`s fault? its voltage is ok. it`s voltage drop is ok too as it follows real "pedal lift" effect. but thanks for advise - i`ll try to find another z32 afm.

ok let me ask in other way: is there anyone here running gt2871r or smth similar on rb25 with the stock rubber suction pipe (or silicon type from perfomancewise) and stock airbox? do you have any issues like written above?

thank you.

and one more thing: usually the first run at is ok -- the car pulls ok to the redline. but other runs at 1 bar have this problem. On very hot days after traffic the problem appears even at 0.8bar.

I think your on the money already. The intake pipe sucks in easier when its hot. I fixed this issue temporarily with some coat hanger wire wrapped around the intake pipe to keep it circular. The silicon intake pipe without rings fixed it and flows better. this was on a Rb25 with GT2835.

Edited by BoostdR
ok let me ask in other way: is there anyone here running gt2871r or smth similar on rb25 with the stock rubber suction pipe (or silicon type from perfomancewise) and stock airbox? do you have any issues like written above?

thank you.

Yep HKS GTRS on S2 Stagea with K&N filter. The cut and insert solid pipe per rev210 and issue gone.

You still need to be mindful that the filter can be a restriction causing the pipe walls to suck in so the filter should be cleaned if dirty or replaced as needed.

Yep HKS GTRS on S2 Stagea with K&N filter. The cut and insert solid pipe per rev210 and issue gone.

You still need to be mindful that the filter can be a restriction causing the pipe walls to suck in so the filter should be cleaned if dirty or replaced as needed.

yes, thanks, as i wrote new apexi panel filter was just installed.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
×
×
  • Create New...