Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The seller tells me he has had this car for 3 months and is not SAU'r

but i am guessing there pretty good chance the previous owner is a NSW SAU'r, hopefully someone knows the Car a bit

can anyone help me please

here is the Car Sales ad

Any comments Good or Bad (Bad - PM me) is appreciated

In NSW

1. REV check - Free from Web site, so that not an issue

2. any Workshops i can get Compression Test / Leak down test done for a good price

3. i got Nissan Fast installed on my Laptop, so will check, but it is run of the mill stanard GTR not V-spec / II or NUR , so not much check there

Cheers

Kushil

in 2 minds about importing at the moment, has this one and V-spec lined up in VIC, but like this one more as i like silver

Is it just me or that price is very low for an R34 GTR O_O

Other people can help you with this Kushil, good luck for the future. (I would've helped, but I myself have no experience with this type of stuff lol, so I might aswell learn from other members ;))

Edited by Joy 17

I smells a bit like too good to be true, Some of the mods sound a bit silly....EVC boost gauge??? errr?? apexi PFC for 2k??? try $1000...the huge brembo brakes are just standard etc.

Might be worth having a look at though...Id be paying very close attention to the engine/turbo health.

This is just one I am keen on, so will have look at it and see

With an open mind.

But yes compression test by a good performance

Workshop inspection will be done, if I do

End up getting serious with it

Looks exactly like one that used to be from my suburb. The owner moved about 7 months ago to somewhere near Bondi and was selling it at the time he moved.

It was serviced well from what he told me, had N1 turbos, makes about 300rwkw. Tuned by Indy at I.S.

If its the same one, its seen some track time. Dont believe the k's.

Looks exactly like one that used to be from my suburb. The owner moved about 7 months ago to somewhere near Bondi and was selling it at the time he moved.

It was serviced well from what he told me, had N1 turbos, makes about 300rwkw. Tuned by Indy at I.S.

If its the same one, its seen some track time. Dont believe the k's.

N1 Turbo's aye...

Thanks

Can you guys spell out some names of workshops "preferable club affiliated" where i can pay over the phone to get inspection done of the car

I don't know any workshops in Sydney and don't really want RTA inspection normally these places are hopeless with imports, let alone modified ones

Never believed KM on a car, but if the motor is good and N1 holding Up well as they should...

might not be as bad as i thought

Georges Hall isn't really that far from Unigroup Engineering at 17/17A Amax Ave Girraween.

I'd have it checked over by Yavuz at Unigroup. It's worth the odd $125 investment. Ph: 9631 2470 E: enquiries@unigroup.com.au

Don't forget the little things.. It most likely will need a decent service at some stage.. Coil Packs, Spark Plugs, Cambelt, Fanbelts, Clutch, Tyres ect.

Just be prepared to give it a full service if not now it'll need one down the track :thumbsup:

Edited by Pandoraa

Thanks for Help Guys.. really appreciate it

but it look like he does NOT like to get it inspected

so time to move on to another one, unless that changes from the Buyer

No way in Hell i am buy a GTR without proper check up

Thanks for Help Guys.. really appreciate it

but it look like he does NOT like to get it inspected

so time to move on to another one, unless that changes from the Buyer

No way in Hell i am buy a GTR without proper check up

Man if the guy is from Georges Hall and on his add says its not on revs and never been in an accident 100% something is up!!!! lol

I wouldnt waste my time, u know what they say you pay for what u get!!!

I cant see any genuine seller having a problem with a prospective buyer wanting to inspect the car unless they clearly have something to hide.

There are nice examples around for some good prices..just be patient & you will find what your after.

From the description, he's either really stupid, or knows his gtr and mods but just pretending to sound dumb. There's so much misinformation in there that even my 5 yo son knows those Volks are not 3 piece rims. However the RRP of 19" TE37's are more than that, so he's actually underquoted himself.

Now that I think about it, he is genuinely stupid.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LS is a good motor, but it hurts my soul when I see it in a RB. Guess it fixes the oiling issues lol.
    • I'm confused. Does this qualify as "Gregging" or are you somehow avoiding the Gregging?
    • More assembly going on, with all sorts of "bolt right on bro" scenarios going on here. Smartly, PTV clearance was checked. And I say smartly because it turns out that the intake was 0.009" from piston meeting valve. This is 0.23mm. This is very not okay. A fast meeting was facilitated between engine builder in Australia and engine builder in the USA which was actually incredibly helpful and constructive actually, various ideas thrown around to get around this issue including: 1) Retard the cam timing which would have brought the exhaust valve closer to meeting piston (it was 0.065") which was uncomfortably close to begin with, and change the cam profile making it 'laggier' 2) Much larger head gaskets which would reduce compression, but half the point of this was to increase compression. 3) New set of pistons ($$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$) 4) All of the above 5) Get ghetto The concept is you get sticky sandpaper and stick it back to a valve, slightly larger than the valve you/I'm using, like say from a LS3/rectangle port head. You now have a very super advanced flycutting tool to modify your pistons in your block. Then you install it in your head, and attach the other end of the head to a drill. Then you just replicate your valve smashing into a piston with your spinning drill.   This is the result. Repeat many times. It is strongly recommended you have some kind of fixed stop when doing this for extremely obvious reasons because if you press too hard then you're well into apocalyptic repercussion land. The minimum clearance on the intake valve is now 0.075" this is still in the "Too close to be really comfortable" and into "It should be fine" land. Supposedly in the real world the clearances will be slightly bigger. Guess this is what happens when people push envelopes for N/A engines instead of adding boost! Time to move onto the new, upgraded, higher ratio roller rockers from Yellaterra, all tapped and threaded with a stronger bolt for better stability. Very nice. Lets see how they fit. For f**ks sake. Time to bring the grinder out for these aftermarket, machined and CNC'd heads. Looks like the new, beefier rocker from YellaTerra has gone from Bolt on part to "Bolt on part". Well, lets see how this bolt on crank scraper and windage tray goes then, shall we? There actually is more clearance than they specify for this thing, but seeing it all move as you check it is terrifying when you see it all so very very very very nearly hit things. But after all, this is what the item is designed to do after all and actually did bolt on perfectly and have enough clearance to everything and some very clear and direct instructions. So +1 to Improved Racing I suppose. As above with the windage tray on. Photo of breaker bar wonkiness for added lols. Next up: Oil pump/front cover/water pump/sump and then it's time to actually install the heads, pushrods, head bolts, valve cover gaskets and such is all there and ready to go. (except the oil pump bolts which were previously longer for more clearance with the previously perfectly installed double row timing chain). There's definitely a sense that someone other than us has been here before and done everything perfectly, or at least considered it and came up with working solutions. Perhaps the previous cam was 6deg advanced to avoid PTV issues with the milled stock heads? In any case when I attempt to sell this stuff the buyers are going to be very directly informed.
    • my catch can is pretty easy to empty but it overflows due to the blowby/crank case pressure etc. max I have drained is ~600ml even with a ~2.3L capacity. So it is not just about having to drain it out its the mess it makes down the firewall and under the car and rear passenger tyre from the overflow oil being blasted by screamer + air in general. Ending up on the ground cleaning the oil up and having oil on your arms when everyone else can chill and watch the other sessions gets old fast
    • Yeah - the secret learned a long time ago is that the RB likes to belch oil out the covers, and/or starve the pump because it drowns the head in oil, because the upflow of crankcase gases from piston blowby comes up through the oil drain holes in the block and prevents the oil from flowing back down. The external vents from sump are about creating an alternative path/much more XS area for gas flow to decrease the gas velocity up through the oil drains and allow the oil to get back down. So, it's not about pressure at all. It is about flows - gas up and oil down - or when it's not working, gas up and oil not going where it is supposed to after it arrives at the top, except out through the cam cover vents. And regardless of whether the catch can is vented to air or vented to the turbo inlet, it must still be vented because a sealed system would blow out the crank seals, or something equally bad.
×
×
  • Create New...