Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Gtst S2 Stalls

Nismo_DriftKing
 Share

Recommended Posts

Nismo_DriftKing Enthusiast

Nismo_DriftKing

Posted
Posted

Hi guys

3-4 weeks ago my car stopped at traffic lights and didn't start up.....then we have replaced the fuel pump , car was fine for week. but most of the time RPM playing up (slight play). now sometimes my car stalls , RPM plays while driving (dropping below 5).., dropping power ,cannot start without accelerating. I have replaced the idle controller unit (used) and AFM (used) but still doing the same. What do you guys think.......

Basic computer reading are OK (before replacing AFM and Idle controller)......i have reset the ECU as well..........What should i do now? is there any good testers to fault find? how do i fault find my new fuel pump? is the AFM and idle controller of S2 is differ from S1?

Thanks in advance

Link to comment
Share on other sites
GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

Can you try swap ECU's with somebody? I had all world of trouble with mine when I bought it yet it turned out to be a dry joint in the ECU.

I would have never known till swapping it to another just to test. This is by no means me trying to tell you that you have the same problem, merely advising you may want to try.

GL

Link to comment
Share on other sites
RB25PWR Proficient

RB25PWR

Posted
Posted

Don't mean to hi-jack. But sometimes when I'm slowing down and go into neutral the RPM will drop to about 500rpm heaps quick then go back up to around 700rpm... do I have the same problem? It also goes funny when in neutral and I'm going slow and turning (for instance, into a driveway). NFI what turning the steering wheel has to do with the idle but it definitely makes a difference. =\

Link to comment
Share on other sites
3LGODZILA Proficient

3LGODZILA

Posted
Posted (edited)

have u guys tryed adjusting ur idle? 1st try with the screw on the aac valve if that doesnt help dissconnect the battery and do it the long way - theres an adjuster on the ecu aswell as the screw on the aac valve - theres a DIY guide on here.

to the OP - if your idle is correct or higher then it should be then this probaby wont help you

RB25PWR - when u move the steering wheel on the spot it'll put a bit of load on the engine - the aac valve is supposed to raise the revs a bit when this happens. sometimes it wont lift the revs and instead it'll drop the revs if the idle isnt set perfectly so maybe try adjusting it also.

what it should do:

when its cold - about 1400rpm

running temp - about 700rpm

when i turn the a/c on - revs should raise about 100rpm

when i steer on the spot - revs should bump up about 100rpm for a second then go down

also note - when its cold my revs are always around 1400 and as soon as its warm there at 700, if its behaving weird like idling high when its warm and sometimes low when its cold then u gotta problem - i would start with cleaning the aac valve, checking the resistance of the coils (im not sure what they should be - im sure some research will find the answer) and resetting the idle.

as said before changing the ecu probably is a good idea, i mean theres plenty around so it shouldnt be hard to source one, and also if something isnt right in the ecu then literally no matter what u do with all the sensors and switches it wont make a difference

Edited by jimmys-33T
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Interesting that it has 2 to the USB stick. Are the ones to the USB stick different? Or labelled anything at all? Telstra 4G is Band 28 is the long range one you want, it's 700mHz. I'm trying to do some reading on the Cel-Fi stuff, but I can't find any decent info online that makes me feel comfortable being able to work out the sort of antennas we could get away to swapping it over to. The antennas I'm starting to do some stuff with at work, are a transparent antenna. They're designed to stick onto the window. Which means you wouldn't even have the antenna outside the car. Volkswagen have just started using the exact same types of antennas on some of their new cars (And from the same antenna manufacturer). But, RF stuff is a bit of a dark art some days, and getting it wrong in your car could make for a terrible waste of money trying to swap antennas :S
    • MBS206
      What do you do with all the spares?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I'm not going to lie Duncan, Saturday and Sunday were pretty rough days. The sort of work I was doing would previously have ended up with me spending about an hour and a half chatting with Neil. Firstly about something I had a question about, and then both of us rambling off on tangents.  I think how Neil did things, and his attitude to getting it done is helping me in part to get this stuff done. Then I can actually do the things I enjoy more easily  
    • RBjay34
      ER, HR bonnet question

      By RBjay34 · Posted

      Talked to another R34 GT-T owner, he said bonnet of his car once fell and slammed from full height because of strong wind at a car show and nothing was damaged or broken, so I guess I'm just overthinking some things but yeah, just making sure I'm not damaging the car anyhow cause wanna keep it for a long time.
    • GTSBoy
      ER, HR bonnet question

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I would say 100% that it doesn't matter at all. I have an Al bonnet and I drop it sometimes, push it others. Have done so for 25 years and there's no way to tell that either has caused any problems (because there are no problems).
    • RBjay34
      Newbie from Kazakhstan

      By RBjay34 · Posted

      yeah, a black 4 door HR, stock AT RB20DE. Was a pretty good daily summer car, it was kept in a garage during winter but previous owner was fighting rust so most of the car was covered with rust undercoating, the trunk, floorpan, it started to rust underneath so I thought it would be better to find other chassis that was taken care better and do rust preventions myself, at least I would know where keep my attention at. Plans are simple, enjoy the car as much as I can, mostly on summer of course, winter here is long and not kind to 90s JDM, I wanna keep it mostly stock like, I'm not a huge fan of GT-R look or any body kits so gonna keep it as metal as possible haha, something more balanced look wise and yeah, work on performance, I was thinking about RB25DET but 20DET actually feels fun, as long as it's reliable I think I might keep it. 
×
×
  • Create New...