Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Pretty sure I need new brake pads and rotors, but Im now getting a terrible grinding sound occasionally coming from the brakes when Im turning without applying any brakes..

Had a look and you can see there is definantly strange wear on the left and right sides - the rears are fine.

Im thinking a wheel bearing might be gone, but I cant physically wobble the wheels with my hands..

Any ideas?

Passenger Front.

photofr.jpg

Drivers front

photo2do.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/333884-brakes-help-needed/
Share on other sites

oh, I fuxked up all my pads and the rear rotors today at wakefield. Anyone know what pads will be good for the track?

My V35 is an automatic without brembo. Thanks for anyhelp=)

I did just the same thing @ QR about 2 weeks ago except I managed to crack my RDA slotted discs at the front as well

Just replaced with DBA 4000 slotted up front with Ferodo DS2500 pads

Using DBA street series blank discs on the back with Hawk ceramic pads

Also did a fluid flush and replaced with Motul 600 fluid

Bring on the next wednesday arvo sprint!

I did just the same thing @ QR about 2 weeks ago except I managed to crack my RDA slotted discs at the front as well

Just replaced with DBA 4000 slotted up front with Ferodo DS2500 pads

Using DBA street series blank discs on the back with Hawk ceramic pads

Also did a fluid flush and replaced with Motul 600 fluid

Bring on the next wednesday arvo sprint!

Mind sharing where you get them and what's the price?

will those blank discs at the back works well on the track, I got the 4000 slotted on the front, they works sublime.

but those OEM back rotors are all fuxked up.

So what I am concerning is will those blank discs = oem blank discs?

and whats the price you get it?

and the DS 2500 as well?

thanks =)

I didn’t go slotted on the rear for a few reasons

1. The guy who dose my brakes wasn’t able to get any slotted discs for a week and my rears "back left in particular" were shagged due to the pads being worn out and having metal on metal run groves in the discs

2. 70% of the hard work is done by the fronts

3. Slotting doesn’t actually do that much, its more about helping gasses from the pad escape and most new pads don’t have that problem

4. A better pad will have a much more noticeable difference than a slotted/drilled disc

So with that in mind and the new rear pads being ceramic = handles heat better. I didn’t see the need for slotted on the rear

I didint shop around with the pads price, I didint have the time to and could not be funked. My brakes were only working about 30% of what they were before I went to the track and I needed to get them fixed ASAP

Anyhow I ended up paying $277 for the DS2500 pads for the front $150 for the Hawks on the rear

I have used DS2500 pads on my old 180sx in the past which had R33 4 pot calipers/discs on the front. Compared to the 1st set of pads which were probally OEM nissan ones despite the brakes being fairly large given the weight of the car. I had fade after only 2 laps, after I changed to the DS2500 I could go the whole session 6 hot laps and not have any problems.

There is a sweet spot but when it comes to pads, if you fit pads that are too heat orieanted then they dont work as well when they are cold. The DS2500 for me work fine when cold but get better when theres some heat in them

Thanks for the information=)

I didn’t go slotted on the rear for a few reasons

1. The guy who dose my brakes wasn’t able to get any slotted discs for a week and my rears "back left in particular" were shagged due to the pads being worn out and having metal on metal run groves in the discs

2. 70% of the hard work is done by the fronts

3. Slotting doesn’t actually do that much, its more about helping gasses from the pad escape and most new pads don’t have that problem

4. A better pad will have a much more noticeable difference than a slotted/drilled disc

So with that in mind and the new rear pads being ceramic = handles heat better. I didn’t see the need for slotted on the rear

I didint shop around with the pads price, I didint have the time to and could not be funked. My brakes were only working about 30% of what they were before I went to the track and I needed to get them fixed ASAP

Anyhow I ended up paying $277 for the DS2500 pads for the front $150 for the Hawks on the rear

I have used DS2500 pads on my old 180sx in the past which had R33 4 pot calipers/discs on the front. Compared to the 1st set of pads which were probally OEM nissan ones despite the brakes being fairly large given the weight of the car. I had fade after only 2 laps, after I changed to the DS2500 I could go the whole session 6 hot laps and not have any problems.

There is a sweet spot but when it comes to pads, if you fit pads that are too heat orieanted then they dont work as well when they are cold. The DS2500 for me work fine when cold but get better when theres some heat in them

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dumb question, but why would it matter if the wheel came off a car with hicas or not?
    • Hey to anyone that reads this, long time lurker first time posting, sorry if it’s been answered before but I’ve been looking for nearly a year now for answers. ive got a 25det neo in an r32 that works awesome when it works (made 500whp on 21psi) but works 45% of the time, 1st issue there’s a harness that runs under the passengers side front fender that my tire keeps rubbing through and one wire seems to power the fuel pump even though I’ve done the relay “mod” some people like to call it, and when it does rub through it kills the car, yes next time I’m with the car I want to take the fender off and try tuck the harness well out of the way but I’d also like to try and by pass this mysterious wire as well lol, also wouldn’t mind getting power from the alternator as I’ve read it supplies the pump with 13v ? But no idea where to run the power wire too. 2nd issue, when replacing my fuel pump and fuel hanger I managed to break the factory fuel level sender leaving me with no fuel gauge, I’d like to buy the fpg fuel level sender for r32/s13 but the plug it comes with confuses me, I’ve got a detschwerks x1 fuel hanger which has light + pump - level + pump + and a ground, I’m no auto sparky but I’m wondering if I can cut the plug off the fuel level sender and wire the negative to the pump negative and wire the positive to the level positive to get a fuel gauge back ?🥴 3rd and final issue, the reason I want a fuel gauge is because whenever it’s below half a tank, it fuel starves like crazy and runs like a bag of shit even without doing a pull or sloshing the fuel round in the tank, I’d also like to fix this but have no idea what’s causing it, I’ve got a dw420 and a dead head fuel setup meaning the fuel is regulated before it gets to the engine, my only theory is that the return line is to close to the pickup on the pump and when it’s at half a tank the return line is causing the pump to cavitate enough to cause fuel pressure issues, that or the pump isn’t low enough in the tank which I would find strange considering I can’t find a single thing online about it, also if ya wondering how I figured out it happens at half a tank without a fuel gauge, I waited until it started happening and went and filled up and the car took exactly 30 litres every time I tested it, if ya managed to read through this mess I appreciate that and any recommendations , cheers
    • ChatGPT is trash and lies about things I would not expect it to lie about considering many things it's wrong about are very easily verified with google. The S3 R33 GTR shares its steering wheel with R33 GTSTs of the same production year. Part number is 48430-26U17. I'm guessing you have to get it from a car that came with HICAS though, the ER33 is 48430-26U18, but the HR33 diagrams note that part number is still leather vs 48430-26U13 which is not leather-wrapped. They all use the same airbags, so if you need another one you can get it off basically any same year R33 or Stagea.
    • I'm going to run hard lines front to back in the future. That should help dissipate a bit more heat. If not, a fuel cooler might be next 
    • No. The mark is with respect to the cam rotation. None of those things have altered it. When stationary, the cam position stays in sync with the crank position. It doesn't matter if you moved the head 4 feet up. Hence, that mark needs to stay exactly where it is.  
×
×
  • Create New...