Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello i have a 1996 Gtst s2

Its got an:

exhaust system

manual boost controller

bov

pod filter

pretty much stock

Ive got a few problems

Firstly, most of the time the idling sits around 700 rpm, but sometimes when warm its at 900 rpm, is that normal???

the actual problem is that when revving it lightly, (say for example reverseing out of a parking bay), or even just revving it once. The rpm drops

to about 500rpm or lower, and sometimes it even stalls. its a real pain because if u rev it gently whilst taking off and then take your foot off the accelerator, it seems like its gonna stall.

but it doesnt always. only sometimes.?

what is wrong and what can i do to fix this?

also the temperature gauge is broken as on cold it shows 1/4 reading and when its warm shows a 3/4 reading.

Also i think my car is running rich as the exhaust pops sometimes when putting ur foot down and changing gears, gaining speed quickly.

fuel also seems to go quickly.

I dont know what my boost is set to because i bought the car second hand. so i really need help. i cant afford a tune either just yet because i wanna see if i can fix these problems myself.

Thankyou :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/333918-r33-1996-gtst-idle-problem/
Share on other sites

could be a few problems..

the spluttering / popping noise when your getting on the gas sounds like either 1. coilpacks are f**ked. 2. running to much boost for the factory ecu (R&R) 3. plugs are f**ked..

About the stalling issues / idling issues - my 33 will idle at around 1300rpm on a cold start, operating temp it idles around 650rpm - sounds like the DIY guide to cleaning your aac valve would be worth a shot..

If you dont know what boost your running - i'd turn the boost down to be on the safe side - usually by turning it down you should find your popping/spluttering will go away.

could be a few problems..

the spluttering / popping noise when your getting on the gas sounds like either 1. coilpacks are f**ked. 2. running to much boost for the factory ecu (R&R) 3. plugs are f**ked..

About the stalling issues / idling issues - my 33 will idle at around 1300rpm on a cold start, operating temp it idles around 650rpm - sounds like the DIY guide to cleaning your aac valve would be worth a shot..

If you dont know what boost your running - i'd turn the boost down to be on the safe side - usually by turning it down you should find your popping/spluttering will go away.

Well i just bought a new oil filter and fuel filter and new oil aswell so in the next few days im going to try eliminate all the problems and do the DIY as posted above (AAC).

just a quick question. Will turning down the boost with the Man boost controller make the turbo kick in later or what??? just make it less powerful? also will it save me more on fuel because im trying to make my car a bit less performance (still good) but just a bit cheaper to run for the time being.

Thanks :blush:

Well i just bought a new oil filter and fuel filter and new oil aswell so in the next few days im going to try eliminate all the problems and do the DIY as posted above (AAC).

just a quick question. Will turning down the boost with the Man boost controller make the turbo kick in later or what??? just make it less powerful? also will it save me more on fuel because im trying to make my car a bit less performance (still good) but just a bit cheaper to run for the time being.

Thanks :blush:

And sorry . How much would i turn it down by???

Well i just bought a new oil filter and fuel filter and new oil aswell so in the next few days im going to try eliminate all the problems and do the DIY as posted above (AAC).

just a quick question. Will turning down the boost with the Man boost controller make the turbo kick in later or what??? just make it less powerful? also will it save me more on fuel because im trying to make my car a bit less performance (still good) but just a bit cheaper to run for the time being.

Thanks ;)

turning down the boost wont really make it "kick in" later / earlier - it just means you'll hit your desired boost. Is it cheaper to run if using lower boost? In your case probably if its backfiring / running rich, your more than likely using more than required.

example - i tried 0-100km/h on 12psi - as soon as i hit 10-12psi the car pops/hesitates cant remember what i ran 0-100 was around the 6 second mark.. i turned the boost down to 9psi ran just as quick..

Not to sure what kind of manual boost controller you have, mine is a turbosmart one, from memory the rule of thumb is 1 rotation anticlockwise / clockwise is either -1psi or +1psi respectively. It should say on the top of your boost controller.

You catch my drift?

turning down the boost wont really make it "kick in" later / earlier - it just means you'll hit your desired boost. Is it cheaper to run if using lower boost? In your case probably if its backfiring / running rich, your more than likely using more than required.

example - i tried 0-100km/h on 12psi - as soon as i hit 10-12psi the car pops/hesitates cant remember what i ran 0-100 was around the 6 second mark.. i turned the boost down to 9psi ran just as quick..

Not to sure what kind of manual boost controller you have, mine is a turbosmart one, from memory the rule of thumb is 1 rotation anticlockwise / clockwise is either -1psi or +1psi respectively. It should say on the top of your boost controller.

You catch my drift?

Ok i understand. I have a turbosmart controller too. So your saying if i wind it anticlockwise and see how many rotations it goes down. It means thats what my boost was set on. So all i have to do is wind it all the way down. is that right?

What is the minimum i should set it at giving me good economy and still decent power. i mean the cars pretty much stock it cant handle a lot. But what should i set it on?

Sorry for all this trouble bro

Thanks a lot

on top of the boost controller does it have a little screw? it should say which was to turn will increase / decrease boost.

Dont wind your boost all the way down. Does your stock boost gauge still work? Just keep it at 7psi - i honestly cant feel much of a difference between 7psi and 10psi.. Might be a good idea to invest in a boost gauge, imo best to spend a little bit to get something thats fairly accurate / looks decent.

on top of the boost controller does it have a little screw? it should say which was to turn will increase / decrease boost.

Dont wind your boost all the way down. Does your stock boost gauge still work? Just keep it at 7psi - i honestly cant feel much of a difference between 7psi and 10psi.. Might be a good idea to invest in a boost gauge, imo best to spend a little bit to get something thats fairly accurate / looks decent.

Hey i just tried to wind it down.

You know how it clicks each time. Well i couldnt wind it down, because it looks like it had already been wound down all the way. it doesnt want to turn down. only up. so i assume its all the way down. and the boost gauge (stock). I took it for a spin and booted it, and it said it was boosted to 3.5. Right in between the 0 and 7. it wouldnt go further than the half way line.

Whats the deal with that???

:thumbsup:

just keep adjusting the boost controller - 1 click in the direction to increase boost. go take it for a drive, watch your boost gauge - it should go higher that 3.5 - just keep turning it up 1 click at a time until your boost gauge is reading close to 7. If at any stage you feel it hesitate/pop/feel underpowered - don't turn the boost up any more.. (you shouldn't have any problems hitting 7psi unless you have problems else where)

mate if your playing round with the boost, make sure you have an aftermarket gauge. and dont forget some manual boost controllers are prone to spiking. its not worth the risk

whats spiking?

when your boost exceeds what you want it to be... i.e 10psi on manual boost controller - boost gauge hits 20 psi.. thats an epic spike

Well i dont know what to do with my boost ive just left it what its on. Im too scared to muck around because i dont know about my boost gauge or if it works. My mate has an aftermarket one he said i could try and have. So were gonna test it on that another day.

probably best not to flog the car around then, buy a boost gauge, $100 bucks will get you something decent. Could save you blowing a turbo / damaging the engine which in that case will far exceed $100.

If you're after a cheapo (I've run one in the 33 for nearly 2 years now and it's never missed a beat), see my sig...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You have found the problem. The wire from the switch to the HB is shorted to earth. Now you have to physically find it and replace it. It won't be the switch, although following the steps above (and yes, where you ask, that is the light switch on the RHS of the binnacle) will rule it out for sure. Or not, if perhaps the switch has melted. But there's no route to earth inside the switch, so I can't see how it would.
    • I did read your post, a few times actually.    Done. Followed this step. [Negative probe should be on the cars chassis. Positive on the wire.]   Did this partially.. now that im reading this over, i only unplugged the LED lights. [Start as said above by unplugging everything (unplug the lights, and switches.] When you are talking about the switch, you're talking about the knob thing on the right side in the drivers seat right? If so, i need to take that apart?  [Now at the switch, there is a wire from the fuse, to the switch, so out your positive on that terminal. It should read open circuit. If it reads something, especially a stupid low value, the short is somewhere between the fuse and the switch.] At this point are you referring to the connector by the headlights?  [If that's fine, now put the positive probe on the wire that goes to the headlight (at the switch plug). If it reads stupid low, the fault is from the switch, to the headlight.] Did this. I can confirm that the LED lights aren't the issue [Another quick test, is take the whole LED light setup from the left, and plug it into the right side, does it still blow the fuse? If you put the right hand side led light setup on the left hand side wiring, does the left hand side wiring now blow?  If the blowing fuse swaps from right to left doing this, your LED lights are the issue.]
    • Hey was wondering if you ended up installing the R33 GTR speed sensor - I found one too and wanted to confirm it's a direct swap into the R34 6 speed?
    • After 23 years of owning a Skyline, finally had the latch go.  Followed this guide,  works like a dream again. Great Guide 👍
    • Hi all,   I’ve got the biggest lot of problems with my R33 GTS-T   It was a freshly rebuilt 25th anniversary RB25DET (plastic cas, neo cams) probably 6 years ago now   The engine was running so well but I fkd up badly and trusted someone I’d known for 10 years that was well known around Plazmaman for his welding and fab work. I added a lovely photo of some of his previous work. Not sure why my car was worked on by whoever did this shit     I’m normally someone who would never open myself up to something like this, I still can’t believe I did it. Trusting him literally fkd it all up for me. Everything has been a struggle, like it’s almost been 6 years that’s how much I’ve just on and off been trying to work it all out.    All I wanted was a car that danced down low, like full boost from around 3~3500rpm to redline, don’t really care what power it puts down (if it ever does) but I just wanted it to be quick to get on it.    He recommended the turbo to get, I picked Hypergear but he told me to get the front 4” with a T4 and 0.68 rear housing.    I was expecting all these beautiful welds, tidy fab work and paid for it to be ready to go to a tuner when I got it back.    I got a car back that was an absolute mess, I actually couldn’t believe it was my car anymore. I don’t think you could even call what he did welds, they’re disgusting.    So I stripped everything he touched off it and with every bolt I loosened it just got worse and worse.    I covered it and literally built and finished another car in the meantime but now it’s getting to the point where I really want my Skyline back.   Its a struggle because I paid him to do all this shit because I didn’t know how to and now I’ve had to try and figure it all out omg    Please excuse the bird shit horrible welds, I’ve got my show pony car and am so beyond dealing with this car I don’t even really care at this point.    If someone told me about what he did to my car I wouldn’t have believed them but it happened to me. It was unbelievable. He went missing, my car went missing, it came back missing parts, the straight af chassis rails bore the scars of being dragged up a trailer backwards, even the sandwich plate was bent. Everything was leaking and open to whatever fell into it, rounded off/ missing bolts, power steering oil and coolant everywhere, no gaskets, parts stolen off it, even managed to damage the sump pan.   Promised me he’d finish the car, knew what it meant to me, I paid him thousands and thousands just for him to trash it. He told me he was fully licensed and insured, come to find out he’d cancelled his ABN, so obviously no insurance. I had laid up insurance on the car and would’ve been covered but I was scared they would’ve written it off or because the business was no longer trading I’d still be liable.    He was supposed to:  New fully custom mild steam pipe exhaust manifold with turbo location moved from factory position to high forward mount. (I don’t know if it is a mild steam pipe, I’ve got a funny feeling the waste gate isn’t in a very good position and I don’t think the outlets off each cylinder are equal) 4” custom stainless steel dump with external gate (he re-plumbed it) Cut and shut OEM intake manifold with throttle reposition (I ended up doing the throttle reposition) Box in pod filter (left out) New 100cel catalytic converter (pretty sure it’s there but unsure if it’s 100cel) Front mount intercooler piping fabricated to suit (all smashed up and rusty holes where he was supposed to make it look standard where fmic piping passes through. I don’t even think my front bar is going to fit 🙄) Custom 5” intake pipe from pod to turbo (didn’t come with it so had to do something to make it work with the Z32 afm)   Engine: Full cylinder head service & machining  Brand new valves Precision upgraded spring kit Engine block honed New bearings  New piston rings  New ARP conrod bolt kit New ARP head studs Cometic head gasket VRS kit   ATR43SS2 ball bearing turbo 0.68 rear housing  Turbosmart 45mm external wastegate (got delivered to the fab bloke, I’ve got no idea what spring is in it, I’m assuming the one that came pre installed) Walbro 260 fuel pump  Nismo 740cc injectors (tested to 880) Spitfire coil packs GCG FMIC RB25DET manual 5 speed 4:11 rear diff   I’ve got an Apexi Power FC in it atm, I was hoping to just get it to operating temp to make sure everything was okay before towing to a tuner but it’s over-fuelling too much. I don’t think that’s going to happen so i think I’m going to get either a Link G4 or Haltech for it. What do you guys recommend? I can’t work out the power FC so just gonna give up on that one     It’s got an exhaust leak coming from somewhere I can’t see 🙄    The fuel pressure was steady but now it like drops from 40 to 20psi randomly (noticed this yesterday)    I’ll attach pics of the shit he put on my car and the engine bay now as it sits    I really just need some help, I need a tuner in Sydney I can trust, I’d like to be with the car while it’s being tuned if possible, I know it looks terrible but unfortunately I’ve just got to put up with it for now and fix the cosmetic stuff later   Do you guys think the manifolds are going to be okay? Or do I throw the exhaust manifold and try again?   I don’t even think these combinations are going to work tbh   I know everything I fitted was rated to be able to take at least 400kW but most rated higher    If you’ve gotten this far I really really appreciate it 🙏 I don’t mind if you trash me or the car, I made a rookie error and f**k I’ve paid for it. As you’ll see 🙄  
×
×
  • Create New...