R33 1996 Gtst Idle Problem

[R33Keaton]

Hello i have a 1996 Gtst s2

Its got an:

exhaust system

manual boost controller

bov

pod filter

pretty much stock

Ive got a few problems

Firstly, most of the time the idling sits around 700 rpm, but sometimes when warm its at 900 rpm, is that normal???

the actual problem is that when revving it lightly, (say for example reverseing out of a parking bay), or even just revving it once. The rpm drops

to about 500rpm or lower, and sometimes it even stalls. its a real pain because if u rev it gently whilst taking off and then take your foot off the accelerator, it seems like its gonna stall.

but it doesnt always. only sometimes.?

what is wrong and what can i do to fix this?

also the temperature gauge is broken as on cold it shows 1/4 reading and when its warm shows a 3/4 reading.

Also i think my car is running rich as the exhaust pops sometimes when putting ur foot down and changing gears, gaining speed quickly.

fuel also seems to go quickly.

I dont know what my boost is set to because i bought the car second hand. so i really need help. i cant afford a tune either just yet because i wanna see if i can fix these problems myself.

Thankyou

[TALBO]

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Di...nd-t110431.html

worked for me

[defari]

could be a few problems..

the spluttering / popping noise when your getting on the gas sounds like either 1. coilpacks are f**ked. 2. running to much boost for the factory ecu (R&R) 3. plugs are f**ked..

About the stalling issues / idling issues - my 33 will idle at around 1300rpm on a cold start, operating temp it idles around 650rpm - sounds like the DIY guide to cleaning your aac valve would be worth a shot..

If you dont know what boost your running - i'd turn the boost down to be on the safe side - usually by turning it down you should find your popping/spluttering will go away.

[R33Keaton]

could be a few problems..

the spluttering / popping noise when your getting on the gas sounds like either 1. coilpacks are f**ked. 2. running to much boost for the factory ecu (R&R) 3. plugs are f**ked..

About the stalling issues / idling issues - my 33 will idle at around 1300rpm on a cold start, operating temp it idles around 650rpm - sounds like the DIY guide to cleaning your aac valve would be worth a shot..

If you dont know what boost your running - i'd turn the boost down to be on the safe side - usually by turning it down you should find your popping/spluttering will go away.

Well i just bought a new oil filter and fuel filter and new oil aswell so in the next few days im going to try eliminate all the problems and do the DIY as posted above (AAC).

just a quick question. Will turning down the boost with the Man boost controller make the turbo kick in later or what??? just make it less powerful? also will it save me more on fuel because im trying to make my car a bit less performance (still good) but just a bit cheaper to run for the time being.

Thanks

[R33Keaton]

Well i just bought a new oil filter and fuel filter and new oil aswell so in the next few days im going to try eliminate all the problems and do the DIY as posted above (AAC).

just a quick question. Will turning down the boost with the Man boost controller make the turbo kick in later or what??? just make it less powerful? also will it save me more on fuel because im trying to make my car a bit less performance (still good) but just a bit cheaper to run for the time being.

Thanks

And sorry . How much would i turn it down by???

[R3N3]

Also if your running a full atmo venting BOV, try put the stock one back on and see if its doing the same thing. alot of people have come accross similar issues when running aftermarket BOV's

[defari]

Well i just bought a new oil filter and fuel filter and new oil aswell so in the next few days im going to try eliminate all the problems and do the DIY as posted above (AAC).

just a quick question. Will turning down the boost with the Man boost controller make the turbo kick in later or what??? just make it less powerful? also will it save me more on fuel because im trying to make my car a bit less performance (still good) but just a bit cheaper to run for the time being.

Thanks

turning down the boost wont really make it "kick in" later / earlier - it just means you'll hit your desired boost. Is it cheaper to run if using lower boost? In your case probably if its backfiring / running rich, your more than likely using more than required.

example - i tried 0-100km/h on 12psi - as soon as i hit 10-12psi the car pops/hesitates cant remember what i ran 0-100 was around the 6 second mark.. i turned the boost down to 9psi ran just as quick..

Not to sure what kind of manual boost controller you have, mine is a turbosmart one, from memory the rule of thumb is 1 rotation anticlockwise / clockwise is either -1psi or +1psi respectively. It should say on the top of your boost controller.

You catch my drift?

[R33Keaton]

turning down the boost wont really make it "kick in" later / earlier - it just means you'll hit your desired boost. Is it cheaper to run if using lower boost? In your case probably if its backfiring / running rich, your more than likely using more than required.

example - i tried 0-100km/h on 12psi - as soon as i hit 10-12psi the car pops/hesitates cant remember what i ran 0-100 was around the 6 second mark.. i turned the boost down to 9psi ran just as quick..

Not to sure what kind of manual boost controller you have, mine is a turbosmart one, from memory the rule of thumb is 1 rotation anticlockwise / clockwise is either -1psi or +1psi respectively. It should say on the top of your boost controller.

You catch my drift?

Ok i understand. I have a turbosmart controller too. So your saying if i wind it anticlockwise and see how many rotations it goes down. It means thats what my boost was set on. So all i have to do is wind it all the way down. is that right?

What is the minimum i should set it at giving me good economy and still decent power. i mean the cars pretty much stock it cant handle a lot. But what should i set it on?

Sorry for all this trouble bro

Thanks a lot

[defari]

on top of the boost controller does it have a little screw? it should say which was to turn will increase / decrease boost.

Dont wind your boost all the way down. Does your stock boost gauge still work? Just keep it at 7psi - i honestly cant feel much of a difference between 7psi and 10psi.. Might be a good idea to invest in a boost gauge, imo best to spend a little bit to get something thats fairly accurate / looks decent.

[R33Keaton]

on top of the boost controller does it have a little screw? it should say which was to turn will increase / decrease boost.

Dont wind your boost all the way down. Does your stock boost gauge still work? Just keep it at 7psi - i honestly cant feel much of a difference between 7psi and 10psi.. Might be a good idea to invest in a boost gauge, imo best to spend a little bit to get something thats fairly accurate / looks decent.

Hey i just tried to wind it down.

You know how it clicks each time. Well i couldnt wind it down, because it looks like it had already been wound down all the way. it doesnt want to turn down. only up. so i assume its all the way down. and the boost gauge (stock). I took it for a spin and booted it, and it said it was boosted to 3.5. Right in between the 0 and 7. it wouldnt go further than the half way line.

Whats the deal with that???

[defari]

just keep adjusting the boost controller - 1 click in the direction to increase boost. go take it for a drive, watch your boost gauge - it should go higher that 3.5 - just keep turning it up 1 click at a time until your boost gauge is reading close to 7. If at any stage you feel it hesitate/pop/feel underpowered - don't turn the boost up any more.. (you shouldn't have any problems hitting 7psi unless you have problems else where)

[R3N3]

mate if your playing round with the boost, make sure you have an aftermarket gauge. and dont forget some manual boost controllers are prone to spiking. its not worth the risk

[R33Keaton]

mate if your playing round with the boost, make sure you have an aftermarket gauge. and dont forget some manual boost controllers are prone to spiking. its not worth the risk

whats spiking?

[defari]

when your boost exceeds what you want it to be... i.e 10psi on manual boost controller - boost gauge hits 20 psi.. thats an epic spike

[R33Keaton]

when your boost exceeds what you want it to be... i.e 10psi on manual boost controller - boost gauge hits 20 psi.. thats an epic spike

Well i dont know what to do with my boost ive just left it what its on. Im too scared to muck around because i dont know about my boost gauge or if it works. My mate has an aftermarket one he said i could try and have. So were gonna test it on that another day.

[defari]

probably best not to flog the car around then, buy a boost gauge, $100 bucks will get you something decent. Could save you blowing a turbo / damaging the engine which in that case will far exceed $100.

[Samon]

probably best not to flog the car around then, buy a boost gauge, $100 bucks will get you something decent. Could save you blowing a turbo / damaging the engine which in that case will far exceed $100.

If you're after a cheapo (I've run one in the 33 for nearly 2 years now and it's never missed a beat), see my sig...