Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Advertising for brother-in-law whos car was written off by drunk driver who didnt see it parked outside hes house.

Standard fuel rail with brand new Nismo injectors $300

Standard GTST Series 2 Cluster $150

Standard Series 2 ECU - $100

Standard Air Flow Meter - $150 (Brand New with recipts)

Standard Intercooler With piping -$50

Bosche 044 Fuel Pump rated at 440hp - $200

Standard Fuel reg -SOLD

Series 2 JDM Front Bar (no fog lights) - SOLD

Trust Gear Knob - $30

Standard Cat back Exhaust with Standard Muffler - $140

Standard Series 2 Spoiler - $80

R33 Ganador mirrors (Carbon Fibre Look)- $150

R33 Front TEIN Super street Coilovers x2 $300

Split fire coil packs, Brand New in box – for all RB engines – RB26DETT, RB25DET, RB25DE, RB20DET, RB20DE. - $600

Contact Brinne Ferdinandus - brinneferdinandus@gmail.com if interested in any of the parts.

Edited by INASNT
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/333921-r33-spare-parts/
Share on other sites

Standard GTST Series 2 Cluster $150

Standard Series 2 ECU - $100

Standard Air Flow Meter - $150 (Brand New with recipts)

Standard Intercooler With piping -$50

Bosche 044 Fuel Pump rated at 440hp - $200

Trust Gear Knob - $30

Standard Cat back Exhaust with Standard Muffler - $140

R33 Ganador mirrors (Carbon Fibre Look)- $150

Split fire coil packs, Brand New in box – for all RB engines – RB26DETT, RB25DET, RB25DE, RB20DET, RB20DE. - $600

Remaining items left, others sold.

email - brinneferdinandus@gmail.com for all questions, pics

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/333921-r33-spare-parts/#findComment-5415152
Share on other sites

Hey mate you just selling these parts? Coz if it's a write off and you're selling any other bits, do you still have the aerial+aerial motor and how much?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/333921-r33-spare-parts/#findComment-5415846
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you put an aftermarket oil pressure gauge on and verified your oil pressure?   Noise being on the block, on exhaust side, how high up the block does it seem to be? It could be the VCT system getting cranky, especially if it's mainly at idle, and when warm, as that'll be your lowest point for oil pressure. Could be showing that oil passages / VCT solenoid are blocking.
    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
×
×
  • Create New...