'00 Pulsar Sedan (nsw) - Turbo, Engineered.
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Don't "upload" the pictures. Just copy the picture direct from somewhere (I usually am pasting screenshots or something else that I have on the clipboard as an image, not as a file" and just paste it direct into the post editor. Just like you were pasting it into a Word doc or something. You can't damage something if you lift it where you are supposed to. If you look carefully at the correct jacking points, you will see that they are reinforced right there. And nowhere else. That is where the "foot" of the factory jack is supposed to sit. That's why you need rubber pads with slots. 10mm might not be deep enough. Note also that the slots are not required if the pinchweld has already been slammed flat. You could just lift it at the correct spot with a flat pad, because the damage is already done. No point in making worse though, if it is recoverable. IF. Yes, that's called a chassis rail. You can lift carefully on these, if you spread the load. A decent block of wood is good. But keep in mind what I said before. Any time you start doing this sort of thing, you are off the normal path and into "be bloody careful", because it is obviously not stable. Dumb. The refinforcement is already there. See above. -
yeah looks like they've been lifted there previously but with solid not slitted rubber blocks. I'd just bend them back (combination of vice grips or hammer with some sort of drift, then hit the area with underbody protection paint. As for the siderails, I'd call those chassis rails and that is exactly what I meant about being careful with the balance point. You can probably lift off them at the point where the 2 pieces overlap, but you need to be careful with the forward balance of the car if you do when the engine is in....sills are a better choice. I guess you could weld some reinforcement in the sill area near the jacking points but it shouldn't be necessary if you use blocks with a slit. If you do want to reinforce it I'd use square section equal or taller than the seam and then just use flat rubber blocks for lifting -
driver side sidemember and jacking point (looks the worst by far) driver side rear jack point passenger side sidemember and jack point passenger side rear jack point Ignore my mug on the last photo. Turns out I was just too stupid to properly use the forum's attachment feature previously -
Fk me, I guess next time I will try to use the onsite attachments feature. I find it hard to work with so far though because I can't move the images to where I want them to be. I will try to make a separate post with just images. As for lifting. The work I need to do for now involves the exhaust and engine mainly, so the arm covering the jacking points is not a problem. But I don't want to bend in the whole sill or underfloor by lifting the car at the original jack points. I found some rubber blocks, 125 by 125 with a 10mm wide and 10mm deep cutout, which I'm hoping will work for not hitting the jacking rail. The sidemember, as seen in the service manual, are the rectangular frame rails that come from the front of the car and go alongside the gearbox and downpipe. Those that get crushed inwards if you use them for a floorjack. They are already slightly bent in from being used to hoist by other people. I think cutting off the jacking points and welding or bolting on a reinforcement plate along the sill might not be a dumb idea. Or is it dumb? A 2 post hoist is what I'm gonna work with, but not for any underbody work, just leaky engine and exhaust work so far. Depends on what else I find that might need immediate attention. For metalwork on the sills I think I'd just bring the car to a panel beater. What's your take on getting rid of the original jacking rails and putting reinforcement plates along the sills?
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Yeah titanium always looks cool but I don't need that, just regular pipes would be fine. But I am really struggling to find any full hardpipe kit that is still for sale.
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