Oil Catch Can (oil/air Separator) For Rb30dett In R32 Gtr

[N1GTR]

The nismo Doesn't work on an RB30 block...with the turbo bolt-on return anyway. Def the go on a 26

Yeah I realise that but who has a 26 thesedays? Haha

I've been toying with making something like the NISMO one and the return plumbing into a Y/T piece after the turbos but it's all just thoughts and not a concern for practicality yet. Id like to know if for example the can was filled, and the return was into a turbo oil line what issues if any that would cause. Straight off the bat I was thinking about the line not being big enough for any extra oil and then the can wouldn't empty. Of course the best route is from the can straight to the sump but how many people will pull a sump out just to make one hole in it then put it back together esspecially in an awd car

[Scooby]

shall i attempt to sketch it in ms paint lol

just take some photos already

pics or ban

[BoostdR]

Yeah I realise that but who has a 26 thesedays? Haha

I've been toying with making something like the NISMO one and the return plumbing into a Y/T piece after the turbos but it's all just thoughts and not a concern for practicality yet. Id like to know if for example the can was filled, and the return was into a turbo oil line what issues if any that would cause. Straight off the bat I was thinking about the line not being big enough for any extra oil and then the can wouldn't empty. Of course the best route is from the can straight to the sump but how many people will pull a sump out just to make one hole in it then put it back together esspecially in an awd car

Hence the dipstick return jobbies.

[Scooby]

Id like to know if for example the can was filled, and the return was into a turbo oil line what issues if any that would cause. Straight off the bat I was thinking about the line not being big enough for any extra oil and then the can wouldn't empty.

I reckon if you had that much oil in the can you'd have bigger problems? Considering what's in your system now stays in, I'm thinking it can't be that much.

[N1GTR]

I reckon if you had that much oil in the can you'd have bigger problems? Considering what's in your system now stays in, I'm thinking it can't be that much.

Oh yeah agreed I'm thinking worst case here.

I'm just overthinking/complicating it all lol

[Marko R1]

just take some photos already

pics or ban

ok then i'll take pics over the weekend

[BoostdR]

I completed the Collinsgrove Hill climb on the weekend with the twin catch can setup.

The car went well, came second overall from 52...however I still have an oil problem. On my third run (read-lots of rpm)I managed to fill the primary can, and suck oil into the PCV...yes lots of smoke. I blocked the PCV for the next run and it was ok.

The setup is:

Passenger rocker cover joined to Drivers side rocker cover into the PCV and to the primary catch can, Primary catch can has a return to the dipstick (no check valve atm) the primary can outlet goes to the secondary can then from there into the rear turbo inlet. The covers are fitted with mines tripple flow baffles.

Potential Problems:

Baffle plates are not sealed anymore since going through the hot tank.

Sump is over filled (filled to the full mark on the RB30 Dipstick)

Less than 1.5mm restrictor required in the head

Too much oil pressure(7.7kg idle cold, 4kg warm, 7.5kg above 3000rpm warm)

Too much oil flow

Too thin oil (Nulon 10w40)

Not enough head drainage

Not enough baffle plate drainage (once oil gets into stage 3 of the plate)

What I will try (in order)

Le Mans 20w60 Oil (reduce oil flow), Check baffle plates

Install check Valve in return line

Install rear head drain. (most likely a small electric oil pump This pump Or this or thisgoing to the Dipstick from both Half moons)<---- you heard it from me first. The pump will be Hobbs switch, G-sensor, or TPS activated

Reduce Oil pressure

Install smaller restrictor( this is a last option for me...really not keen on reducing the flow to a level that may see issues when driven quietly on the street.)

Matt

Edited August 30, 2010 by BoostdR

[Marko R1]

i also run 20-60 lemans & it is a very good oil but super expensive.

i pay $60 for 2ltr & need 8ltr for each oil change

[BoostdR]

i also run 20-60 lemans & it is a very good oil but super expensive.

i pay $60 for 2ltr & need 8ltr for each oil change

The question on my mind is it suitable for E85. I have to run the PCV- you should see how much condensation there is on cold start from E85 in the breathers.

[BoostdR]

The question on my mind is it suitable for E85. I have to run the PCV- you should see how much condensation there is on cold start from E85 in the breathers.

looks ok

Part No:18-404-02Item Name:MOTUL 300V LE MANS ENGINE OIL 2LApplication:UNIVERSALSpec:2LDescription:Racing lubricant for racing cars

100% Synthetic – Double Ester Technology

TYPE OF USE:

Racing cars with atmospheric or turbocharged engines, race engines operating at very high temperature and high rpm: race on tracks, endurance races; Le Mans 24H, rallies, rally raid, Paris/Dakar, dirt or ice races.

Engine producing very high fuel dilution in the oil.

Other applications: Gasoline or diesel engines, turbocharged, direct injection and catalytic converters, vintage cars.

PERFORMANCE:

STANDARDS Above existing standards.

Reference team Larbre Competition, Le Mans 24H, FIA GT...

Double Ester technology : maximum oil film resistance, balanced polarity, resistance at very high temperature.

Friction Modifier: maximum power output, decrease operating temperature.

0% shear loss: Stable oil pressure whatever conditions the oil is subjected to .

Maximum anti-wear resistance.

Perfect engine cleanliness.

20W-60 grade is able to absorb fuel dilution in the oil and maintains high oil pressure. Engine can run at very high temperature.

RECOMMENDATIONS:

Oil change : according to your own use.

Can be mixed with synthetic or mineral lubricants.

[Scooby]

ok then i'll take pics over the weekend

chirp chirp...

[Marko R1]

thats good to know that lemans 20-60 is compatible with e85 as i am making the switch very soon

[BoostdR]

thats good to know that lemans 20-60 is compatible with e85 as i am making the switch very soon

I looking at getting my injectors from here Rb26 injectors

Most likely 1350 or 1450cc. My 1000cc at 4bar base do not cut it.

[Marko R1]

im running the bosch indy blues 1600cc - my tuner was very happy with them, why dont u get those? cheap as well when compared to jap hardware

u do need to get a suitable fuel rail though to run these 14mm injectors (factory is 11mm) & custom spacers for the fuel rail as the injectors are taller as well

Edited August 31, 2010 by Marko R1

[N1GTR]

I looking at getting my injectors from here Rb26 injectors

Most likely 1350 or 1450cc. My 1000cc at 4bar base do not cut it.

On e85?

From my experience around 1400 would be good. I use ID2000's, not cheap, but they're excellent

[BoostdR]

On e85?

From my experience around 1400 would be good. I use ID2000's, not cheap, but they're excellent

where did you by them and how does the car idle...what rpm?

[N1GTR]

where did you by them and how does the car idle...what rpm?

Mercury Motorsport

Idles fine, just like stock except for the lumpy cams. Idle is set to 950rpm.

There's vids on YouTube if you wantto look then up but they wont help with this at all

The biggest shock was the low speed/throttle drivability. Before it was shit on light throttle or carpark speeds and I just put that down to the 1000's being so large. The ID's are just like stockers. Sure they're not cheap, but nothing good is!

The tuner, who does a LOT of tuning in Syd was over the moon with them and couldn't believe how good they are compared to the Indy blues which of course until the ID2000's came around were the big injector of choice for e85 cars

[Marko R1]

Mercury Motorsport

Idles fine, just like stock except for the lumpy cams. Idle is set to 950rpm.

There's vids on YouTube if you wantto look then up but they wont help with this at all

The biggest shock was the low speed/throttle drivability. Before it was shit on light throttle or carpark speeds and I just put that down to the 1000's being so large. The ID's are just like stockers. Sure they're not cheap, but nothing good is!

The tuner, who does a LOT of tuning in Syd was over the moon with them and couldn't believe how good they are compared to the Indy blues which of course until the ID2000's came around were the big injector of choice for e85 cars

thats surprising stevo - are they that much nicer to tune with than indy blues?

mine idles beautifully with big cams

i think at the end of the day, u need to go with hardware which your tuner is happy with or can work with - for example, there is no point running a vipec if your tuner prefers working with a pfc

[BoostdR]

$1800 for injectors is a little insane..

Some of the Honda guys have been having trouble with these injectors on idle.

Honda guys ID2000 idle

Edited September 1, 2010 by BoostdR

[N1GTR]

thats surprising stevo - are they that much nicer to tune with than indy blues?

mine idles beautifully with big cams

i think at the end of the day, u need to go with hardware which your tuner is happy with or can work with - for example, there is no point running a vipec if your tuner prefers working with a pfc

I can't remember the exact wording as it was a while ago but the points he was making was;

-Better to tune

-Better to drive

-something about response time

-Well worth the expense

He tunes with any gear that people bring in, so for someone as widely respected to say that, and after driving it back to back on the 1000's, that's good enough for me