How to turbo your N/A

[N-DAWG]

Good score with the e-manage. For simplicity sake, make sure you use an R34 dump on and R34 and an R33 dump on the r33...mainly for firewall clearance, that's all.

Sure is All I need to add to it now is ignition harnesses etc.. though it says it comes with harnesses. I'll see what it comes with first though.

So the front / dump pipe is more of a size thing than a will it fit the turbo the car came with I take it, and a front/dump for an R34 should connect up to an R33 turbo compressor?

Also what are people's opinion on the Flyn 2 in 1 front / dump pipe? I like it for the price and convenience of the two in on. I'm open to suggestions.

Edited September 25, 2008 by N-DAWG

[666DAN]

Hopefully it has both "harni" then

Yeah the rear flange on the turbos are all the same, it's just the R34's have more of an angle on the dump pipe to clear the firewall.

[N-DAWG]

How critical is it that a second hand turbo compressor comes with the factory oil and water lines?

In the first post Dan mentioned that the lines were extended with braided hose. Does this mean that the factory ones won't be long enough to start with?

One of the second hand compressors I'm looking at doesn't have the lines, and a brief search shows that these can go between $50 and $450 dollars.

Advice is much appreciated

Edit: Also what benefit would I see in a Oil Cooler Kit? I would imagine that keeping the oil cooler is going to be a good thing with running high compression...but that's just my thinking though. Would a oil cooler / relocation kit solve the issue with the required oil lines? or not necessarily?

Edited September 26, 2008 by N-DAWG

[dori34]

^ im going to be running a oil cooler on mine just to keep things bit more safe

as for the oil & water lines, hypergear sell the braided bits for like $80 each.

might be somehitng worth checking out

justjap have the 2in1 dump/front combo for around $250 i think. ive seen them products upclose & inspected them thoroughly and they were of excellent quality.

Edited September 26, 2008 by dori32

[N-DAWG]

^ im going to be running a oil cooler on mine just to keep things bit more safe

as for the oil & water lines, hypergear sell the braided bits for like $80 each.

might be somehitng worth checking out

justjap have the 2in1 dump/front combo for around $250 i think. ive seen them products upclose & inspected them thoroughly and they were of excellent quality.

I'll take your word for it on the dump/front combo. I'm in between that one or the Flying Performance front / dump 2 in 1. For what it's worth I figure might as well go for a new dump/front pipe.

Which oil cooler are you looking at getting? I notice there's one in a group buy at the moment. I'm really not too sure of which size to get etc.. I would rather be on the safe side though with keeping the oil in the engine nice and cool.

Where did you see the braided lines for $80? I've been looking on www.digi-hardware.com

[dori34]

^ check out hypergear's sponsor thread on nissan silvia.com.

his website says oil feed is $120

(just chcked it, its $80 with the turbo) but im sure if you PM him he can do a deal for you

http://www.digi-hardware.com/tr28kai.html

*Additional:

Braided Water lines $80 Each

Braided oil feed lines $80 Each*

going to be running a B&M / Permacool oil cooler kit with a Justjap coolingpro core

doesnt come with fancy braided lines but with high temp rubber hoses but still does the job quite well

[N-DAWG]

^ check out hypergear's sponsor thread on nissan silvia.com.

his website says oil feed is $120

(just chcked it, its $80 with the turbo) but im sure if you PM him he can do a deal for you

http://www.digi-hardware.com/tr28kai.html

*Additional:

Braided Water lines $80 Each

Braided oil feed lines $80 Each*

going to be running a B&M / Permacool oil cooler kit with a Justjap coolingpro core

doesnt come with fancy braided lines but with high temp rubber hoses but still does the job quite well

Thanks Dori...I scored a new Turbo Braided Line Kit of a seller on NS for $100 and a Turbo Smart Single Stage Boost Controller also for $100, $10 postage for them both, so I'm pretty happy with that

Did you mean a Permacool oil relocation kit and then with the just jap core?

I'm still not having much luck with finding injectors for an R34 =S I reallly don't want to buy these new, they're $$$ lol

I'm still a bit undecided between FMIC and SMIC as well. I really like the sleeper look and I've been seeing a few good priced R34 SMIC's going recently, but keeping that air cool is more important I guess.

What lower priced intercooler kits are recommended? I really don't want to blow out the budget too much lol

Oh another thing too, the turbo compressor which I've got on the way doesn't have the wastegate actuator. What's going to be involved in getting this to work properly?

From what I understand, I'll need to purchase an Actuator for 7PSI, or block off that part of the turbo and run an external waste gate which I understand would mean a high mount manifold. I really would like to keep it low mount factory looking, and also to keep costs low as I imagine a high mount would involve custom piping?

Oh and has anyone had experience with Monsta Performance intercoolers and manifolds? The price seems reasonably cheap, just wondering if this is another stay clear iem or if its actually worth while looking at.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NISSAN-SKYLINE-R32-...1713.m153.l1262 Too good to be true? Or will it be good enough for doing a conversion?

Edited September 28, 2008 by N-DAWG

[dori34]

^ alot of ppl will say steer clear of monstaperformance...

for cheap intercooler kits hit up justjap for the stealth piping cooler kit, no need to drill holes in batter tray & it doesnt look messy with piping running across the fan shroud.

Yep i meant a perma-cool relocation kit with a few extra hoses & cooling pro core (will have to buy the proper fittings to fit the hoses on as they arent screw type like the braided ones) was going to get a B&M core as well but i found out doing it this way is heaps cheaper.

you can run a ext gate on lowmount, just need to get your lowmount manifold modified for the ext gate.

your turbosmart boost controller will be able to keep boost levels at 7psi.

as for injectors, i believe R33 GTST ones fit too. that might be an option for you and theyre easier to find as well.

if you shop around & take your time, you can get all the parts required for this conversion for arund $2000ish + installation & tuning with aftermarket parts (only stock thing is the manifold & injectors - cheaper of course if you use standard smic & exhaust)

[666DAN]

Brad is selling GTT injectors -

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...l=R34+injectors

[N-DAWG]

Brad is selling GTT injectors -

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...l=R34+injectors

hmmm and $70 cheaper than the ones recently offered to me too. Cheers Dan!

[dori34]

so is R34 rb25 side or top feed ?

[N-DAWG]

so is R34 rb25 side or top feed ?

R34s are top feed. But just to be a pain they're different from other top feed skyline injectors >_>

Lucky for me I've scored an RB25DET Manifold and R34 GTT injectors $250 shipped from another forum member. Given how hard it seems to have been to try and get these, I'm taking them both for that price.

So now all I need is to figure out which intercooler to go with, buy a new fuel pump, get the front/dump pipes, and decide whether to get an exhaust done together at the same time. Oh and sort out the actuator, a BOV and also decide whether I REALLY need the oil cooler.

I have thought about just getting an SMIC to begin with, but then for what it costs to get a FMIC fitted later and then a retune, might as well do them together. Unless of course if I do the catback zorst and high flow cat, together with a FMIC later on, then it might be worth while.

So now it's a matter of waiting a few more pay cheques and getting it all together and put in and tuned Might be a month or two at the moment though.

*sigh* the money we put into our cars lol If I felt confident enough I'd look at fitting it up myself, but I'd really rather leave it to the pros.

Edited September 29, 2008 by N-DAWG

[dori34]

^ get a fuel rail madeup to suit GTR injectors..

dont worrya bout SMIC, go FMIC and full exhaust str8 up, might as well get it done in one go.

[R33_Dude]

Finally had my injectors and computer arrive. Should be ready in about a month.

Its all going to be bolted together at a family members workshop so if I wanted to replace the head gasket it wouldn't be too hard to do.

So if I get a chance to replace the head gasket how thick should I go?

[N-DAWG]

Awesome! My injectors and manifold arrived today, as did my turbo =] And it came with the actuator and it's assocaited bits. So at least I won't have to worry about that now!

R33 Dude, you're lucky to have that help! Wish I had someone who was willing to help me out with changing a head gasket! I asked how much it would cost and decided against it lol

Now all I need is intercooler, pipes, catch can, possibly oil cooler, BOV, and ignition harness. Yep the EManage only came with connector 1 harness =/ Still a good buy nonetheless.

I might look at after xmas to get mine all done. Let the unwanted attention that's more present around xmas subside a bit first lol

[dori34]

^ i got a spare catch can you can have.

just pay for postage.

Cheers

[Vik]

Hey guys hows it goin'.

Ive been thinking lately, and want to go Turbo if i get the restriction lifted off my licence.

But, im wondering which one of these 2 options would be better and less painful mentally and to the pocket ?

1) Sell the current NA, buy a GTT stock and start work again.

2) Continue working on the current NA, and Turbo it.

Keep in mind, engine work can be done / helped with via my dad whos a mechanic / panel beater, so labour isnt much of a problem.

MRXTCZ

[N-DAWG]

How much have you done to your current skyline?

From what I can see it's quite a nice looking skyline. If you've already started working on things like suspenion and done a lot of mechanical work, the cost of going to a new skyline and getting it back to that standard can be a costly one. Not to mention the cost of selling and buying a car as it is.

You've already got the 3" exhaust. Notably in your other threads you were looking at changing this to a 2.5". If you want to go turbo having this 3" exhaust already will help you cost wise.

How is your engine mechanically? Turbocharging an N/A and keeping it within safe boost limits with a good tune will see good results, and at least you know your car.

If you're dad is a mechanic and labour isn't an issue, you could look at modifying the engine internals if you're really after outright power.

Personally I prefer the idea of turbocharging my RB25DE with good engine management and tune, and having good useable power, rather than buying another used GT-T that I don't know the history off.

You can always do an engine rebuild later down the track to get more power if need be, and have a good solid strong engine.

How long till your restrictions are lifted? My advice would be to keep it as is for now, the money you would spend on N/A mods (eg. exhaust) look at getting suspension and handling right, and then turbocharge later when on your opens.

Hey guys hows it goin'.

Ive been thinking lately, and want to go Turbo if i get the restriction lifted off my licence.

But, im wondering which one of these 2 options would be better and less painful mentally and to the pocket ?

1) Sell the current NA, buy a GTT stock and start work again.

2) Continue working on the current NA, and Turbo it.

Keep in mind, engine work can be done / helped with via my dad whos a mechanic / panel beater, so labour isnt much of a problem.

MRXTCZ

[Vik]

Yeah the engine to tell you the truth is great, the only thing that gave away so far in the past say 3 or 4 months has been the coilpacks, which i got replaced with the Splitfire option . Great investment might i add.

Anyways, the engine all around is great, no leaks no seals gone, all the internals are working fine.

Due for a 100k RB service in about 10,000km's

Knowing dad, he would've never let me buy the R34 if he didnt look at it himself, and he did.. took about an hour to look through the whole car, looking for Bog, and cut and shut jobs.

So i wouldnt mind turboing the RB.

I checked the first page, and it gave a rough price on tools and expenses etc etc. But after having a glance through the other 13 pages people found bits and peices they would need, and extracting that info is killing me.

Nathan, you've been in touch with this thread alot, any chance of just a quick tick off list of MUST NEED items / equipment / services we will need to get the upgrade on the road and running?

I know for a fact that, just being only 18, driving a turbo, cops will go nuts. But as i have the licence to back it up it should be perfectly fine.

MRXTCZ

[N-DAWG]

PM your way mate

Yeah the engine to tell you the truth is great, the only thing that gave away so far in the past say 3 or 4 months has been the coilpacks, which i got replaced with the Splitfire option . Great investment might i add.

Anyways, the engine all around is great, no leaks no seals gone, all the internals are working fine.

Due for a 100k RB service in about 10,000km's

Knowing dad, he would've never let me buy the R34 if he didnt look at it himself, and he did.. took about an hour to look through the whole car, looking for Bog, and cut and shut jobs.

So i wouldnt mind turboing the RB.

I checked the first page, and it gave a rough price on tools and expenses etc etc. But after having a glance through the other 13 pages people found bits and peices they would need, and extracting that info is killing me.

Nathan, you've been in touch with this thread alot, any chance of just a quick tick off list of MUST NEED items / equipment / services we will need to get the upgrade on the road and running?

I know for a fact that, just being only 18, driving a turbo, cops will go nuts. But as i have the licence to back it up it should be perfectly fine.

MRXTCZ