How to turbo your N/A

[666DAN]

I'm picking up the N13 (S)Exa this week as well, need to investigate the current CA18DE that's in it though as it's suddenly decided to run on 3 cyl.

If it turns out to be nothing too bad, operation bolt-on GT28RS will begin I've got pretty much everything at my disposal to pull this conversion off for sub $1K haha lets see how it goes!!!!!

[N-DAWG]

haha noiiice!! Looking forward to seeing that one Hopefully the 3 cylinders is only a little minor thing

[666DAN]

Can't complain for a $100 car I'm sure even finding a replacement CA18DE will be fairly cheap, may blow the budget out to $1250 though

Oh better factor in the cans of cheap white paint as well, no expense spared here

[N-DAWG]

hahaha yes don't want to over do it now What about the go fast stickers for added horsepower?

[4 door love]

hit a little speed bump in my rb20DE+T conversion. where have people sourced a water outlet for the turbo. i was looking on a mates DET and it has a connection but on mine it is not there. any help???

[N-DAWG]

Pretty sure Dan used the heater use for the water line on his conversion...not sure if it's the same deal with the RB20?

[4 door love]

so basically T piece a heater hose and run it that way. thats what i had in mind after studying my engine and a mate DET for a good half hour

[N-DAWG]

Post #1

The oil & water lines were modified and extended with stainless steel braided hose. The water supply was taken from the heater lines…the oil feed had to be taken from near the filter and the return is via a tap into the block..

[666DAN]

Yup that's right, I used the heater hose near the firewall

[dori34]

The oil & water lines were modified and extended with stainless steel braided hose. The water supply was taken from the heater lines…the oil feed had to be taken from near the filter and the return is via a tap into the block..

that only applies if your turbo is oil & water cooled

since my turbo is oil cooled only im going to get the return via the sump so tap into that.

Edited January 10, 2009 by dori32

[N-DAWG]

Well my car's at the workshop as I speak, and already hit a couple of bumps. The braided lines I bought aren't going to be long enough and I'm going to need them made to the correct lengths. Problem is the speed flow fittings they sell are as dear as poision!

Any recommendations for a place that can make them up, preferably locally (Brisabne) that won't cost the earth?

Also after a factory actuator and bracket for an R33 turbo as the one that I received with it is too short :S

Provided I can get these issues sorted out pretty quickly they're happy to continue with the rest.

[666DAN]

I always get me braided lines done at a brake shop...but if you're going for speedflow, nowhere is cheap :S

[N-DAWG]

I'm going for budget but without compromising too much. Speed flow is probably beyond what I need? not sure.

Now it seems I need factory lines as well.

Factory Lines

2 metres Dash 3 Hose

2 x Straight Dash 3

2 x Dash 3 Banjo to fit R33 Standard Turbo

1 x 1/8 NPT thread to Dash 3 fitting

1 x T-Block for Oil Pressure Switch.

They don't want to tap the block without removing the engine, and been told that using heater lines is going to be the best way as the water isn't flowing consistently unless the heater is on.

So yeah now I'm on the pursuit of factory lines and cheap enough hoses/fittings...oh and an actuator

[666DAN]

The banjo lines are easy, all brake shops that make braided lines carry them. I actually had a 1/8 BPT to banjo made up for my car recently.

Even the water lines were timmed factory hard lines with braided heater hose clamped over them, worked fine.

The heater is constant flow in the R34's it's the vent that controls the level of airflowing through the heater, that's why with your A/C off (but still turned to 30 degrees) you can still feel hot air by your feet as the air mix vent is allowing air to go through the heater core ie it's a constant coolant flow setup. It's not like the old cars where a coolant valve opened. and then let if flow, it's always flowing regardless of A/C being on any temp or on/off

Yep they can do either a T-block or you can get an oil filter sandwhich plate with oil pressure pickup which should be cheapish as well.

[N-DAWG]

Thanks for the replies Dan Lines are all sorted now with speed flow fittings for $325.

Thanks to the guys at Hi-Power, one of the tuners had a few of the fittings I need at home they're happy to give me, and the hoses etc.. they're supplying so that's all worked out well in the end.

Now just sourcing an actuator, but at least everything else can continue in the mean time now which is good.

Once it's all done I'll be taking photos of the the hose lines and fittings to show how it's been done on my car.

[dori34]

whats the oil pressure switch for?

Yep they can do either a T-block or you can get an oil filter sandwhich plate with oil pressure pickup which should be cheapish as well.

1 x T-Block for Oil Pressure Switch.

[J3TR33]

i did the conversion on a r33, im gona try and take photos of my oil and water lines as well so you guys can comment... im pretty sure they sourced them from another place... or i think so... and when ever i have the heater on for a long time the car suddenly turns off... could this be caused by the water lines... thers a few dodgy things on my car which il take photos off and you experts can comment lol.. t.c

[N-DAWG]

They're looking at taking the water feed from the intake hose..or something like that on mine. They didn't like the idea of running of the heater hose. That doesn't sound too reliable there J3TR33, I'd hate to be cruising with heater on and that happens! Then again I don't think i've ever had to use the heater in the car up here in Brisbane lol

[J3TR33]

They're looking at taking the water feed from the intake hose..or something like that on mine. They didn't like the idea of running of the heater hose. That doesn't sound too reliable there J3TR33, I'd hate to be cruising with heater on and that happens! Then again I don't think i've ever had to use the heater in the car up here in Brisbane lol

lol yeh i avoid it most of the time... even if i get hypothermia...

its happened lyk 3-4 times... and the stearing locks as well... so its dangerous...

[J3TR33]

ok... took some pics...

some1 please comment if there is anything wrong... thanks

1st photo: i think this is the water feed line, as you can see there is a rusty metal thing that has no hose attached to it.. good/bad?

2nd photo: two hoses connected to charcoal canister, one is blocked off with a nut, i think it was a vacuum line that ran to the manifold, at which now a vacuum line connected to the blow off valve is connected.. good/bad..

3rd photo: water line, runs to the firewall, might be t-pieced to heater hose, return line, im guessing, good/bad?

4th photo: that goldy bronze pipe is blocked off, it may have ran to the sump, now the return oil line runs to the sump.. good/bad?

The oil line was t-pieced from the oil pressure switch... i think the best place to get oil feed from..

My only concern is that the car turns off when the heater goes on, it could be the connection of the water hoses...

Thanks