How to turbo your N/A
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Pic of Nos, turbo kit and sequential not loading. 404 not found -
im sure mine stays in gear and wont shift unless i shift it? and for sure it wont go back to Auto mode if its put in manual mode? if i use paddles but its still in D then of course it goes back to auto mode. but yer if its in -+ and i use paddles it will not auto change gears what so ever and i have tried this. it will gear down if at a stop though which is kinda nice but goes back to 1st gear not D. i think it used to be like this with imports aswell i dunno if its really like it anymore like when i got my R33 it had alot of JDM options which local cars didnt have. Now local cars have kinda caught up even the lower models. but yer transfer rates and other things makes it almost on par. -
Very decent bit of kit. Definitely black it out I reckon. -
Because people who want that are buying euros. The people with the money to buy the aftermarket heads and blocks aren’t interested in efficiency or making -7 power, they’re making well over 1,000hp and pretty much only drive them at full throttle best way to way make money is know your customer base and what they want and don’t spend money making things they don’t want. -
By joshuaho96 · Posted
It's not, but it does feel like a bit of a missed opportunity regardless. For example, what if the cylinder head was redesigned to fit a GDI fuel system? It's worth like two full points of compression ratio when looking at modern GDI turbo vs PFI turbo. I'm pretty reliably surprised at how much less turbo it takes to make similar power out of a modern engine vs something like an RB26. Something with roughly the same dimensions as a -7 on an S55 is making absolutely silly power numbers compared to an RB26. I know there's a ton of power loss from things like high tension rings, high viscosity oil, clutch fan, AWD standby loss, etc but it's something like 700 whp in an F80 M3 vs 400 whp in an R33 GTR. The stock TF035HL4W turbos in an F80 M3 are really rather dinky little things and that's enough to get 400 whp at 18 psi. This just seems unwise no? I thought the general approach is if you aren't knock limited the MFB50 should be held constant through the RPM range. So more timing with RPM, but less timing with more cylinder filling. A VE-based table should accordingly inverse the VE curve of the engine.
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