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How to turbo your N/A

666DAN

By 666DAN,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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MirKz
MirKz

havent you forgotten to list pistons ? you need low compression pistons, otherwise using the standard high compression pistons that NA's have will just F*&k ure engine VERY quickly.. although i h

mrjelly
mrjelly

i have a 1993 r32 gts with a rb20det conversion. i bought it this way so i dunno whats been done. power seems sweet up until 5000rpm, where it seems to hit some flat spots in power from there onwards.

unarmed_skyline
unarmed_skyline

hey i just though i would go back a little bit and add something in, in relation to drilling the oil return line into the block a way of getting around this would be to buy an oil cooler and run the o

Posted Images

N-DAWG Mentor

N-DAWG

Posted
Posted

Okay...now for some pictures..and hopefully some advice in regards to getting a BOV running.

I'm hoping I'll be able to modify the NEO cover to fit with that piping, hopefully I won't have to trim too much off, but I think it will just look a lot neater.

The intercooler piping kit as I've probably previously mentioned was pathetic so that's the best that could be done with it.

DSC00897Large.jpg

DSC00898Large.jpg

DSC00899Large.jpg

Now I doubt a R34 Crossover pipe is going to fit without a bit of modifying...what I'm thinking though is if I were to run some sort of aftermarket BOV pipe after the silicon elbow, possibly having to cut down the intercooler piping a bit.

Would something like this be suitable for mounting a factory R33 BOV on to? Basically then I'd just need that, an extra silicon joiner, and then it's a matter of plumbing it back in...

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Dump-Valve-Turbo-Ad...p3286.m63.l1177

I don't particularly want to drive around with a closed loop set up for a long time, it flutters so soon due to the way it builds up boost very quickly and I don't particularly want that attention.

I haven't had a particularly close look at the turbo inlet pipe, but I imagine this shouldn't be too much of an issue to plumb it back? Would it make any difference to the tune? Like enough to have to retune?

Samon Proficient

Samon

Posted
Posted
Sounds like a whole lot of heartbreak, I'd be pulling hair out :)

Yeah certainly not a nice feeling, but at least now I'll be starting out with pretty much a brand new engine, with low comp pistons, etc, so I'm gonna try and get a turbo ECU to match it and then it should just run like a brand new one! I'll probably still run the eManage so that I can extract a bit more power out of it, but I'm aware that the rest of the car (gearbox, diff, etc) is still almost 200,000km old... so I'll need to go a bit easy there too!

On the whole tho... doing it was an awesome learning experience, I don't regret a second of it - even blowing it up means I'll learn how to remove/replace the engine, etc.

N-DAWG Mentor

N-DAWG

Posted
Posted

I'm still having mixed opinions about the conversion...but I think my Dyno graph explains why. Been told that the dyno is used more for diagnosing and tuning and not so much power runs, known for reporting up to 20kw less than other dynos, so i'm not taking notice of the power at the moment, more the boost and power curve.

My boost graph seems to be abnormal...the tuner thought it was the front wheel on the turbo but it's not, and was hesitant to want to put the turbosmart single stage on it, instead being best to opt for a EBC. Once I get a Plumback BOV sorted out it should also hopefully help as well and stop the flutters that I'm already very much over. Then another resonator or something to kill the drone...

Anyways, here goes with the dyno graph, hoping someone can shed some light on the abnormalities....

DSC00894.jpg

Tezzah Experienced

Tezzah

Posted
Posted (edited)

He didn't really rev that to 8,500 did he? =(

That boost graph is your problem, hahaha. Not sure why its all over the shop.

is that line with splitfires?

did you change your spark plugs?

upgrade injectors?

Im not sure what parts you are using, but i'd be questioning the quality of turbo > dump pipe > exhaust > fmic+piping.

just anything relating to boost problems.

post-38901-1232530293_thumb.jpg

post-38901-1232530332_thumb.jpg

Edited by Tezzah
N-DAWG Mentor

N-DAWG

Posted
Posted (edited)

I'm fairly positive (will check later) that it's running straight of the actuator, no solenoid..

to give a run down

no BOV as I didn't have a crossover pipe and the factory bov i had is apparently not quite suited to that alloy piping?? I want to get the factory plumback BOV running asap though.

turbo is a R33 Series 2 turbo

JJR Front & Dump with custom 3" mandrel catback & 3" Magnaflow hi-flow cat.

Spark plugs were changed

Injectors are R34 GTT NEO injectors

Walbro GSS342 was installed as well

Splitfires will be next up as it's had one failed coilpack, it's just such a big expense straight after all this though =S

Dori suggested that since it's running straight of actuator and no BOV that's why the boost graph is probably erratic.

The dips look to be between gear changes (auto/tiptronic box) and the closed loop means the turbo is slowing hence the power dip ( I believe )

So now I'm not sure whether to insist on having the turbo smart manual boost controller installed and see how it goes at controlling that boost, or whether to just go straight to an EBC. I'm fairly certain an EBC will smooth that out a lot, correct me if i'm wrong, and combined with a plumback BOV should really make the power delivery a lot more linear? Just doesn't feel right and not so great to drive...

Problem is, we all know how expensive a EBC + tune is, and splitfires aren't cheap by any means either =S

Edited by N-DAWG
N-DAWG Mentor

N-DAWG

Posted
Posted (edited)

Yeah very strange indeed...I'm trying not to get too disheartened at the moment. Budgets blown over, things haven't turned out exactly right...i'm sure that it can be sorted though...anything can be sorted with $$$ :)

I'd pick up a boost controller for under $400 if I felt confident about installing it myself, along with the coilpacks when I get them. It's mainly the extra cost of fitting then retune as far as a EBC goes...coilpaks are damn expensive nuff said :S

What would be the easiest most affordable preferably DIY way to get a BOV running on it the way it is now? Is it true about mounting a factory BOV onto that intercooler piping? Or should I buy a cheap aftermarket BOV like say one of the Flyn ones, or would I be best not to? I really don't know what the Flyn ones are like, but if it will be a easy affordable but reliable solution...

Edited by N-DAWG
dori34 Grand Master

dori34

Posted
Posted

i reckon since its running boost straight off the actuator, its not being controlled properly thats why its so spikey. boost is not holding properly due to 1) acuator not working 100% or 2) its leaking.

save your $$ and get the turbosmart boost controller installed, that will help regulate the boost & keep it more stable. if it doesnt work THEN opt for EBC

N-DAWG Mentor

N-DAWG

Posted
Posted

The turbosmart seems to be relatively simple to install... would these directions still apply for the R33 turbo? http://www.turbosmartonline.com/index.php?...load&id=178

Thing is I don't have a boost gauge to check the boost level, and it would most likely need a retune, would it not? or not necessarily? I'd really want to do them both together though... just an expensive exercise if it turns out I really need a EBC. i've got a RB20 Actuator still supplied by mistake instead of a RB25 one, I still need to return. But I've heard that this will run higher boost again?

About the Flyn BOV though?

drive2slide Enthusiast

drive2slide

Posted
Posted

Go AU Falcon coilpacks if you can't afford Splitfires!! They work just as well.. for a FRACTION of the price. Just finished this conversion on my 25 and it starts and runs SOOO much better/smoother, and heaps of the boys on the R31 forum with RB20DETs are running AU Falcon coils with mad results.

AU Falcon coils on my 25..

DSC00016.jpg

DSC00017.jpg

N-DAWG Mentor

N-DAWG

Posted
Posted

Will the Falcon coilpacks work on the R34 NEO?

I spoke to the tuner this morning, apparently the boost reading was of the intake manifold and it's the characteristics of the R34 intake plenum that would be contributing to it. They believe that if it was taken from another point, or if it was even viewed on a boost gauge it will be unnoticeable. I've been told that a EBC should be something to look at later, and they don't recommend spending up on one right now, just to take one step at a time.

As for blow off valve, to fit the factory one on the piping I have will mean grinding back the shiny surface of the pipe and welding a plate, then fitting the bov n plumbing it back in...which could turn out to look quite ugly and be a lot of work. The other option which I've been researching, is to use a BOSCH bypass valve such as the ones found on factory turbo systems on european cars. A bit of research shows them to be able to hold boost quite well, and I found a post on SAU where someone was using it for 263kw with 1.1Bar for over a year now and had been using BOSCH BOV's for 4 years.

So for a cost effective solution I'm looking at a Bosch recirc BOV and that should hopefully control the boost a bit better and remove the flutters.

The dips in the power curve are due to the auto transmission, the stall from the auto box and the dyno trying to slow it down. I've been told the effect of not having a BOV fitted isn't going to have much of an impact being that it's an auto. My driving style is a bit different though particularly with driving tip most of the time.

I've asked that the tune be looked at a bit further as it was done in one afternoon and for my peace of mind I'd like it looked at, and that isn't going to be a problem. I just want to get the BOV sorted out first and possibly the coilpacks before it goes back in though.

As for running the turbosmart single stage, i've been told that it's not going to a lot if anything as there's no predefined target for it to adjust to, simply just increasing or decreasing and emulating the actuator to an extent..

Anyways, one step at a time, hope to get the BOV sorted out fairly soon and see how it goes then. But in all it seems to be a combination of the DE Intake Plenum and Manifold, the auto box, and quite possibly lack of BOV that is giving it that sort of read out.

dori34 Grand Master

dori34

Posted
Posted
But its cheap! :D Rb's are pretty messy engins anyways..

pft how dare you :)

Don't forget if you run into pinging problems either get it tuned up on e85 (hit up guilt toys thread) or run water methanol injection but I'd say e85 is the better bet

yeah im really looking into this as well..

have u done it to your car?

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