How to turbo your N/A

[N-DAWG]

uhuh very true Cris..unfortunately the cure for it doesn't grow on trees

Ideally I would like to look at a shift kit, make better use of the power there. I find between 2nd and 3rd the auto box just doesn't keep up that well. I'd sooner do that then look at more power.

I think a shift kit + the plumback BOV will definitely smooth out the power curve.

Then pads will probably be due soon. Anyone who doesn't look at upgrading brakes when doing a NA+t is crazy...extra stopping power definitely doesn't go astray.

Things like LSD I can live without, but would be nice to have.

I really planned to get out to the occasional track day, but I'm really second thinking it with this sort of set up...but if I look at it in the long term, upgraded the auto box, some good pads n later rotors, then in some years to come look at strengthening the bottom end, I will definitely be more confident about pushing some limits.

In the end it all = $$$ and when the housing market is looking so attractive, priorities tend to change a bit.

[GTS4WD]

There are always cheaper answers.

Reshimmed diffs are a FRACTION of the price of LSD's, dont have the cluncking and noise problems either.

GTR diffs are also cheap 2 way upgrades.

You'll be surprised how much of an emprovement good brake fluid is as opposed to upgrading brakes. I Penrite SIN at like $22 a bottle its a Super DOT4 or DOT5 (not exactly sure, could check if your interested) and will dramatically stop brake fade and other common problems.

I try to be as big of a tight arse when i modify as possible. Ill search car yards, second hand parts, forums, e-bay, yahoo auctions everything before I finially decide where to buy what I want and in the end it always ends up a heap cheaper than the commonly asked prices..

[N-DAWG]

Yeah definitely true..unfortunately my actual conversion ran fair bit over budget due to some unforseen things but that happens I guess.

I've got R33 GTSt Brakes, R33 GTSt Brake Master Cylinder, ADR Approved Braided Brake Lines, Motul RBF660 fluid Just using what meat was left on the pads and rotors that I got though..but the pads will need changing soon. Probably didn't need to go as far as RBF fluid, but since the brakes were being flushed out I thought might as well do it right to begin with.

TBS Performance do a street/occasional track pad that is very cheap compared to other aftermarket pads...I'm thinking about trying them out see how they go, though I haven't been able to find a lot of info on them though.

[GTS4WD]

ok.. Who has more info on this E85?

Need to know information before I go ballistic with it.

It seems that there is a common theme of " the elimination of bare magnesium, aluminum, and rubber parts in the fuel system. Another is that fuel pumps must be capable of operating with electrically conductive ethanol instead of non-conducting dielectric gasoline fuel" in th need to run E85.

Anyone know where I can read up on Guilt-Toys journey of running it?

And on a uick side note: WTF is the go with this new layout!?! This was a big reason why i loves SAU! It didnt run this stupid layout!

Edited February 3, 2009 by GTS4WD

[Samon]

And on a uick side note: WTF is the go with this new layout!?! This was a big reason why i loves SAU! It didnt run this stupid layout!

Not sure if this is what you're referring to, but go to the top of the first post on the page, click [Options], then click [switch to: Standard]

[GTS4WD]

Not sure if this is what you're referring to, but go to the top of the first post on the page, click [Options], then click [switch to: Standard]

OHHHH!.. LEGEND!..

Cheers mate!

[dori34]

ive been told you cant shim a standard diff from a non turbo skyline. (single spinner)

can anyone confirm ?

[GTS4WD]

Second hand diff - $200

Shims - $30

Diff oil - Depending on what you use

1 arvo in the back yard and your car is out of ction for only a weekend.

If you get the shim thickness correct you have yourself a half decent 2way "style" diff without the cluncking, whirring and chirping in carparks

[dori34]

Second hand diff - $200

Shims - $30

Diff oil - Depending on what you use

1 arvo in the back yard and your car is out of ction for only a weekend.

If you get the shim thickness correct you have yourself a half decent 2way "style" diff without the cluncking, whirring and chirping in carparks

pricing applies to R32 & R33 only lol

R34 GTT 2nd hand diff is like $500!

[GTS4WD]

pricing applies to R32 & R33 only lol

R34 GTT 2nd hand diff is like $500!

lol.. dang.. so I was a little off..

Lets face it, who cares about 34's?.. Their the new 33's..

Arn't the diffs interchangeable? Or swap the centers over?

[N-DAWG]

Had a slightly overdue oil change done today, along with fitting of the Turbo XS BOV plumbed back in, and a few more hours of fine tuning since the last tune was more of a getting it on the road tune. Another guy tuned it this time too I believe.

Result is a much smoother boost curve compared to before. Power wise, it had a fair few runs and max came out at 211.9HP @ around 5600RPM. Boost pressure has improved a lot too since the new changes. Feels a lot smoother and much better and nicer to drive now. The plumback lets out a bit of sound at over 3500-4000 revs...obviously coming on boost a lot earlier that's expected. The gurgling sounds when backing off the throttle have reduced a lot since fitting the BOV as well and just generally it feels a lot better to drive.

i've got a full colour Dyno printout as well now, will try get around to scanning it up at work soon, or I can just upload a photo of it later.

The auto/tiptronic box is definitely what's letting it down in the power delivery though, specially between shifts. Will probably look at a trans cooler and shift kit upgrade later in the future, but for now the next thing will be to get boost/oil temp/water temp gauges. I'll probably rely on the factory oil pressure gauge as I'd sooner have an oil and water temp. All in good timing though.

Feeling much better about the whole conversion now though and will probably just settle for the power it's currently making for the sake of reliability...there's always further down the track where I can do a rebuild and go nuts..it is after all a daily driver.

[dori34]

lol.. dang.. so I was a little off..

Lets face it, who cares about 34's?.. Their the new 33's..

Arn't the diffs interchangeable? Or swap the centers over?

not sure about the centres, ive enquired but noone really answered. even if it does fit, the ratios will be off. only similar ratios i know of is from a S15 auto (whole housing can be swapped).

nate, boost it up to 12 psi and off you go

haha

[N-DAWG]

lol sure thing haha

I've actually had the check engine light start coming on a few times now, only started this arvo though.. Basically if backing off the throttle and braking/slowing down from load, it comes on for a bit, or if coming down hill just letting it roll and braking to control speed the light will come on till i apply throttle again. And now when idling, after putting it into park, and the revs settle the light comes on till i rev it again... Remembering this only started this arvo, and I got it back from retuning and fitting the BOV yesterday arvo and have driven it around the same way with no engine light till now.

It's late in the evening so I can't exactly make the phone calls that I need to right now as it's this time of the evening and no one's in the workshop.. Just not sure if this sounds okay to drive on the weekend..

[N-DAWG]

[dori34]

go post your results in the NA+T power results thread!

[N-DAWG]

Yeah eventually...they're nothing special at the moment lol And the gearbox lagginess bewteen 2nd and 3rd at around 3-4k revs is starting to annoy me >_>

Meanwhile my engine check light hasn't come up since! Spliftire coilpacks on the way soon too

[s1.533]

dam, after reading this.

time for me to start collecting parts hey.

since all the info are here thanks to you guys. i just need to do the leg work. lol

im still quite unsure if i turbo my DE. what would be the best ecu? my r33 is auto but going manual in a few weeks

[N-DAWG]

If you're going manual, aim for a stand alone ECU like a PowerFC =] If not then eManage Ultimate will probably be the way to go for Piggy Back.

[s1.533]

thanks for that n-dawg

well lucky for me i got a spare power FC for a turbo s2 from my brother ex skyline. and also got the standard turbo ecu too.

=]

[N-DAWG]

dude..you have a Power FC and and the Turbo ECU? No question about it! use that! lol I'm assuming it will work ont he Series 1.5? If so, then score!!