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Standard NA Engine WGC34 RB25DE +T with 140,000kms

800cc injectors

DSR Colis

FMIC

LINK G4 ECU

3 1/2" exhaust

Alcotane E85

357rwkw at 16PSI

Competed two seasons in D1NZ National Drifting Championship

Lost compression on number one cylinder after 20 months, got another WGC34 engine $300NZD with less than 120,000 kms bolted everything on a quick retune and banging on limiter again, I think it's a very cheap alternative to a fullly built forged engine

Standard NA Engine WGC34 RB25DE +T with 140,000kms

800cc injectors

DSR Colis

FMIC

LINK G4 ECU

3 1/2" exhaust

Alcotane E85

357rwkw at 16PSI

Competed two seasons in D1NZ National Drifting Championship

Lost compression on number one cylinder after 20 months, got another WGC34 engine $300NZD with less than 120,000 kms bolted everything on a quick retune and banging on limiter again, I think it's a very cheap alternative to a fullly built forged engine

That makes me feel better about the way i drive my RB25DE sometimes, thats insane for an unopened RB25DE. How much KM did it rack up in the 20 months ?.

  • 1 month later...
  • 4 weeks later...

To those that have turbo charged a GTS with an automatic transmission, how are your transmissions holding up,

my gearbox is an auto so thats one reason i have said no way to RB25DE+T, i would be more inclined to do it, and use it till it

goes bang.

To those that have turbo charged a GTS with an automatic transmission, how are your transmissions holding up,

my gearbox is an auto so thats one reason i have said no way to RB25DE+T, i would be more inclined to do it, and use it till it

goes bang.

Depends what box you have man is it the re5r01a or the re4ro1a i fried my stock re5 with just natro power abuse lol, the re4s dont really like much over 210-220 rwkws without a shift kit.

Both boxes can be built to handel decent power although parts the re4 are easier to find, and it's expensiveish to do it properly

Its a re4ro1a, and i dont know how reliable it is considering it flares often. Its been doing that for 2 years in drive mode ! though in triptronic

it bangs in and out of gears like its supposed to, i also treat it shizz and its been holding up with my natro power, ill probally destroy the box within a week with turbo power.

  • 1 month later...

Its a re4ro1a, and i dont know how reliable it is considering it flares often. Its been doing that for 2 years in drive mode ! though in triptronic

it bangs in and out of gears like its supposed to, i also treat it shizz and its been holding up with my natro power, ill probally destroy the box within a week with turbo power.

The N/A ones seem fairly flarey for no reason, my one was like that and the box was only 3 years old. The trans oil they put in it during a solenoid change turned out to be pretty average, I changed it and had an instant improvement.

It was fine with the turbo bolted on down the track.

  • 4 months later...
  • 1 month later...

Hey guys,

Just wondering if some parts i've got laying around with mates would fit in an R34.

T25 turbo from an Rb20

R33 GTST dump pipe

Also im planning on running 5 Psi, still need to upgrade injectors and fuel pump? What fits onto an R34?

P.S: I'd buy a GTT but I like my GT4 for the moment, just got some cash and wanted to have some fun :-)

i wouldn't bother with the RB20 turbo,

get a RB25 turbo

R33 GTST dump will fit but if it's standard one then don't bother, get a 3" dump/front and catback exhaust, they pop up 2nd hand all the time for very cheap.

yes you will need to run r34 neo det standard injectors and fuel pump as a minimum.

i'd go walbro 255 pump for peace of mind

  • 2 weeks later...

might just go down the DET transplant route.

Much work required to chuck an r33 RB25DET (Not neo) into the R34? Could I just pull off the parts I need and put them onto the Neo and keep that? Hmm.

I just finished fixing my 34 after doing a big end in the 180k block.. I bought an RB25DE neo and swapped the DE int. & exh. manifolds + exhaust cam with the DET ones, bolted in new DE+T engine and turned key.. Fairly easy as far as engine swaps go as I could leave my injectors etc in the DET manifold and just bolt the whole thing on. In answer to your question, yes, engine swaps are generally a bit of work lol.

Not real sure about 33's, does the non neo 25 have VVT? If there are differences like that I'd be leaning towards the option of bolting turbo parts to your neo.. What about your ecu? The only way I'm getting away with throwing boost down an unchanged DE is the fact I'm able to modify the Ecu's DET map via nistune. Before pulling some timing out and adding some fuel (shed tuning) I drove down the road and brought it on boost a bit only to hear the worst most violent sounding knock I've ever heard. A de-comp plate may be worth a thought?

Good luck :)

might just go down the DET transplant route.

Much work required to chuck an r33 RB25DET (Not neo) into the R34? Could I just pull off the parts I need and put them onto the Neo and keep that? Hmm.

Options:

Bolt on turbo

Stagea RB25

RB26DETT

Make sure you dont get a RB25DET from a RWD you need to change to a rwd gearbox and then drive shaft etc etc. Its a massive amount more work putting a RWD engine in a GTS-4 or GT4. Also you need to change the cross member and sway bar aswell and the engine mounts and the brackets for the rails. If you have Nissan FAST the front of a GTS4 or GT4 are the same part numbers as a GTR so its unbelievably easier to drop a RB26 in there

NEO RB25's are far to different to swap the parts out from a R33 RB25. Even if you did i dont know what you would swap out. The RB25DE and RB25DET have the exact same internals except for pistons and rings (obviously) and there are oil squirters on the turbo blocks, the heads are the same part numbers aswell and all the valvetrain, the turbos have larger rocker covers to support larger oil baffles. Its worth looking into adding a turbo as engine is not very different at all, and with a good tune it wont ping and detonate.

Also the 4WD sump has an extra 500ml of oil so it suits a turbo build much better than the RWD, also if you upgrade the oil pump you wont run the sump dry.

Just change ECU to a power FC (NA ecu will stall on boost), injectors 555cc injectors, walbro 255LPH fuel pump, boost controller, FMIC, 3.5" cat back and 3" turbo dump pipe, factory turbo (make sure it comes with manifold and all water and oil lines to make it easy on yourself).

All parts brand new and respectable brands. Cost $3000-$4000 and you will get 200-220KW at the wheels if the tuner is good.

I just finished fixing my 34 after doing a big end in the 180k block.. I bought an RB25DE neo and swapped the DE int. & exh. manifolds + exhaust cam with the DET ones, bolted in new DE+T engine and turned key.. Fairly easy as far as engine swaps go as I could leave my injectors etc in the DET manifold and just bolt the whole thing on. In answer to your question, yes, engine swaps are generally a bit of work lol.

Not real sure about 33's, does the non neo 25 have VVT? If there are differences like that I'd be leaning towards the option of bolting turbo parts to your neo.. What about your ecu? The only way I'm getting away with throwing boost down an unchanged DE is the fact I'm able to modify the Ecu's DET map via nistune. Before pulling some timing out and adding some fuel (shed tuning) I drove down the road and brought it on boost a bit only to hear the worst most violent sounding knock I've ever heard. A de-comp plate may be worth a thought?

Good luck :)

Defiantly the worst thing about putting a turbo on is getting it to the tuners with your base tune. :rolleyes:

Does the R34 NA and Turbo run different cams? On the R33 the whole head and valvetrains are the same, from cam gear and shafts to the valves.

The series 2 r33's run VVT

Here's a thread about a vg30de+tt

Same concept. Have NA, have TT parts laying around. Fit TT parts. Tune. Win.

No intercoolers, no h2o injection.

http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=301126

Defiantly the worst thing about putting a turbo on is getting it to the tuners with your base tune. :rolleyes:

Does the R34 NA and Turbo run different cams? On the R33 the whole head and valvetrains are the same, from cam gear and shafts to the valves.

The series 2 r33's run VVT

Well I was told by someone knowledgeable on the topic that the exhaust cam only differed on the DET and now I wouldn't mind some confirmation of this! It'd be great if he was wrong about something as he rarely is LOL :verymad:

The Cams are identical, but from comparison it looks like the cam timing is slightly different. Inside the VCT/Intake camgear it actually has bolts to adjust it, my turbo cam gears have a different setting to that of the N/A. Once turbo'd, the dyno shows a bit of a hole on most N/A+T's just above 5000rpm, it is my opinion that it is due to that.

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