How to turbo your N/A

[Vik]

Legend!

MRXTCZ

[dori34]

i thought about selling my NA to buy a GTT but ive been searching and average price for them is around 19-20k.

i can get my current car turbo, running with mods & tuned etc for extra 3k or so and still comes under 19k including what i paid initially for the car.

its a better option if you dont plan to mod its t*ts off.

however if u were to go all out, then a GTT would be a better option, strong gbox & brakes etc

[N-DAWG]

i thought about selling my NA to buy a GTT but ive been searching and average price for them is around 19-20k.

i can get my current car turbo, running with mods & tuned etc for extra 3k or so and still comes under 19k including what i paid initially for the car.

its a better option if you dont plan to mod its t*ts off.

however if u were to go all out, then a GTT would be a better option, strong gbox & brakes etc

Yep too true! I bought my line for $13grand with 105,xxx kms. The only problems were leaking shocks, and discs were getting very close, and a couple of other minor things. Add the dollars I spent on getting suspension (shocks/springs/sways/bushings), new wheels and tyres, and now the turbo conversion, and I still come under what I would have probably spent on a GTT, and have the higher risk that comes with buying a used turbo car than an N/A Line.

For what I want, it makes perfect sense

[Vik]

Nice. So 3K is the rough pool of dosh you need to get this project up and running. Hmmm.. sounds do-able. Need a few things sorted. But Nathan bruh, hope you do it and be the new age pioneer .. haha .. i wanna hear this thing when its done

MRXTCZ

[dori34]

^ you can get it done for under 2k with standard GTT/RB25 parts

such as stock turbo,exhaust, intercooler, fuel pump etc.

my 3K+ was for bigger turbo, turboback exhaust, FMIC, walbro pump etc.

[Kujotk]

why dont you just trade it for a gtt lol, already been done properly, comes with all the extra gtt goodies like bigger brakes and shit

[Vik]

Yeah but the work ive already done to my one will go down the drain ..

Thats why i wanna' actually get it done like this.

It will be something different aswell.

MRXTCZ

[UNR33L]

just do what i am going to do, handling / aesthetics / brakes on Ps, turbo when off.

[R33_Dude]

You don't even need to spend 3 grand. In total, with all the parts and stuff I want I have spent a total of $1100.

Thats all the bits off a R33 RB25DET (injectors, ecu, dump, manifold, hoses, clamps etc etc) plus an R34 intercooler.

Although I have certain bonuses (such as having professionals in the family who will do work for free or at the very most for a beer or two) I believe just about anyone could do this conversion for $1500. This also allows heaps of room for improvement down the track such as a good FMIC, mandrel bent exhaust, thicker head gasket and whatever else.

I do believe there is a drift car in brisbane using a RB25de+T with bolt ons, and a thicker head gasket and it makes an easy 390ish HP@RW. Was in High Performance Imports I believe.

I doubt that for the price of this conversion I could sell my car and buy a GTS-T.

[N-DAWG]

As R33 Dude said, the cost using factory parts is quite cheap.

The cost of using aftermarket parts such as a FMIC, exhaust etc.. will obviously bring up the cost substantially.

If you look at it in that context, the cost of getting your N/A turbocharged using factory spec parts is very worth while if you are happy with that. It also gives you a starting point, and you can always build on that later with mandrel exhausts and FMIC's etc.. to get the most out of it.

If you were to buy a turbo model, I'm sure that the time will come to upgrade the exhaust, upgrade the intercooler etc.. and if you factor all that in, the cost of going to a turbo model and then getting more out of the turbo model car can cost even more again. Unless of course if you have a completely stock standard N/A, and a stock standard Turbo model is fine for what you want, then it starts making a bit more sense to just swap the car.

Now consider that getting power out of an N/A will mean upgrading the exhaust as a minimum, factor in the cost of upgrading the complete exhaust including extractors, add in piggy back ECU and tune (though you could probably get by without it), and you can quite easily get close to the cost of turbocharging with factory parts (not including labour). I think it's pretty obvious which is going to net more gains. Start adding bigger cams and engine work to really start extracting more power out of the N/A, and the cost blows right out considerably!

For some getting the most out of an N/A is the way they want to go, and that's fine. Not every Skyline HAS to have a turbo. However, bolting on a turbo and a good tune will be the more cost effective way to get extra power.

If I sold my Skyline today, bought a GT-T, started again with suspension, major service and other things to get it to a similar standard as what I have now, plus stamp duty and other associated costs that come with buying a new car, and then hope that the new skyline is in good condition and there's no suprises...the cost of doing that, I could take the conversion a step further and build a stronger turbocharged engine!

Anyways, that's how I see it.

[dori34]

You don't even need to spend 3 grand. In total, with all the parts and stuff I want I have spent a total of $1100.

Thats all the bits off a R33 RB25DET (injectors, ecu, dump, manifold, hoses, clamps etc etc) plus an R34 intercooler.

Although I have certain bonuses (such as having professionals in the family who will do work for free or at the very most for a beer or two) I believe just about anyone could do this conversion for $1500. This also allows heaps of room for improvement down the track such as a good FMIC, mandrel bent exhaust, thicker head gasket and whatever else.

I do believe there is a drift car in brisbane using a RB25de+T with bolt ons, and a thicker head gasket and it makes an easy 390ish HP@RW. Was in High Performance Imports I believe.

I doubt that for the price of this conversion I could sell my car and buy a GTS-T.

i did say $3k was for upgraded turbo,3" exhaust, bigger fuel pump & FMIC & it would be under $2k for stock shiet

thats easy for 32/33's because they can use the standard GTST ECU where as R34 cant use the GT-T ecu, will definately have to get it remapped or run a PFC or some sort of piggy back ecu. this will cost anywhere from $500-$1000 + tuning.

rough price breakdown:

turbo + lines & manifold say $450-$550

stock turbo back $150?

GTT fuel pump $70

GTT injectors $180

PFC $1000 or Emanage $500

thats already over $1200 and still got the intercooler left.

stock SMIC $100 with pipes

you're not really considering running a old & tired GTST pump are you?

you might as well do it right the first time & get a brand new walbro, whichis only around $150-$170 brand new!

you might as well go all out and get a turboback 3" exhaust & FMIC kit too.

N-Dawg is right.

If you were to buy a turbo model, I'm sure that the time will come to upgrade the exhaust, upgrade the intercooler etc.. and if you factor all that in, the cost of going to a turbo model and then getting more out of the turbo model car can cost even more again. Unless of course if you have a completely stock standard N/A, and a stock standard Turbo model is fine for what you want, then it starts making a bit more sense to just swap the car.

stock for stock then yes cheaper to swap.

but then the mod bug bites you and then you change to turboback 3" exhaust,boost controller, FMIC. which adds more on top.

if done to a the NA+T, you still come under a standard GTT except with more mods!

GT-X brakes are fine, just upgrade to better pads and they will stop the car without any dramas (GT-V got the GT-T brakes so thats a bonus)

if you want to go all out and hit 280-300rwkw then get a GTT - cheaper in the long run

if you want mild power say under 250rwkw stick with the NA+T - cheaper option from the start

Edited October 9, 2008 by dori32

[N-DAWG]

Well I've been looking at Plumb Back BOV's and it seems that the options are to try and get a factory BOV, or an aftermarket plumb back BOV.

Flyn Performance have a plumb back BOV for $35 + Postage. Now given the cost, I'm a bit uncertain as to whether I should buy this BOV, or look at other options... Has anyone used the Flyn BOVs? For 7 pound boost, is it going to do the job and do it well? I'm looking at purchasing my front/dump from either Flyn or Just Jap, so combining postage costs would work out.

The other question is air filters.. Will the stock N/A Air Box flow well enough for this application? I have a K&N Panel in mine now. I wouldn't mind going to an enclosed pod, I just want to know if I should go straight to the pod before tuning etc.. or would it make next to no difference fitting a pod filter later on after installation and tuning? Are the saber mesh pod filters any good? or stick with say an Apexi item?

[dori34]

^ NA airbox won't bolt up to turbo Intake so you either a) get a GTT airbox with a hiflow panel filer or b) run a pod.

as for BOV, if you want stock looking and minima sound then get a GTR one which will hold boost without leaking for around 18-20psi (possinly more) otherwise a stock GTST/GTT one will be sufficient.. unless you want sound of course.. then the Flyn ones owuld be ok!

[N-DAWG]

I see...so looks like pod it is then. So where does the RB25DE's AFM and intake piping come into the conversion?

Also I'm not too worried about the sound, and I most certainly don't want an atmo bov. The Flyn plumback ones is what I was looking at, simply cause of the pricepoint for a new bov, and the ease of being able to buy one.

[dori34]

you will need the GTT turbo intake pipe OR get one custom made

dunno if you can use the NA pipe but a GTT one will make things alot easier.

[Vik]

Ive got a mate who basically demolished his GTT one night because he took the coilovers for one night to repair or something.. took the car up hill .. boosted while uphill and at the apex of the hill he just flogged it even more .. hitting the ground over the hill .. no traction .. stock suspension .. car bounced around, and cars in peices, cosmetically..

I think i will be able to take his GTT gear from his engine .

He worked on that car religiously, so might be able to grab some goodies aswell .

His number plate was MYLADI, from liverpool / hoxton park side, canary yellow.

Will get in contact with him to see if his got the gear

MRXTCZ

[dori34]

^ ive seen that around lol

[mjscar]

Hey guys,

I've been following this thread for over 6 months now and I've finally got enough information and dough to finally jump in and do it. I still have to order the parts, but I've got a question before I start shopping

Anyways, my question is in regards to the oil feed and oil return line. I read through the thread, and unarmed skyline mentioned about using an oil cooler to get the oil feed and oil return line. So that got me thinking, can I simply use an oil sandwich plate without a thermostat to get the oil feed and oil return line? If so, this would save me a lot of hassle in trying to find a way to drill a hole into the block.

My second question is, if this is feasible, do you guys know where I can get an oil sandwich plate without a thermostat? I've found a lot with a thermostat, but I can't find one without. Anybody know of any?

Anyways, cheers for the feedback.

[Grunta]

Hey guys, been reading through the pages and a few have gone the DE+T option.

Im kinda thinking of going the DET swap. get a halfcut and just drop in a complete RB25DET. I have a GT-V so I already have the brakes and all other GTT parts (cept for traction controll), Im thinking I could do it cheaper, buy a halfcut and sell my current engine, mabey even do a swap with a jap parts shop.

Am I right in thinking if I get all the parts, ecu, wiring, piping, it would be just a simple engine drop in and away I go?

Are the NA auto boxes the same as a GTT's ?

Can anyone point out any flaws in this plan?

Thanks

[Vik]

You havent worked on the RB25DE?

Truly, i was gonna' do so, but, i know for a fact that ive looked after my engine religiously. And have no idea what kind of engine im gonna' be getting from the wreckers.

Yeah they give you a first start warranty, but what happens down the track when u find out all these lil' bandage fixes are what kept it running for the first 10,000 k's

And living in bankstown, i dont trust half the wreckers in the area.

Buh yeah, if you do go ahead with it, goodluck man and all the best. Love to see the results man.

MRXTCZ