How to turbo your N/A

[666DAN]

Yeah I don't think they should have bypassed the upper line there, I'm pretty sure on my car that runs to the AAC valve and controls cold-start, not sure on the R33, would need confirmation :S

That bolt mod is also pretty dodgy :S

[dori34]

anyone know what the oil pressure switch is for??!!

[dori34]

what clutch would be suitable for this??

[666DAN]

Oil pressure switch is to let you know when your oil is low

Behold, the fabled $100 (S)Exa, the missing cylinder is injector related, I can't hear a pulse and the loom seems shabby (loses another cylinder on moving) OK time for some TLC and boost!!!!

[N-DAWG]

WOOOOO the fun begins

[dori34]

good cruising car in summer with the targa roof and all

cant it use the standard rb25de' oil pressure switch?

natedawg, where did u get urs from?

[N-DAWG]

Oil Pressure switch? Hi-Power Racing are sorting that out for me, I think they're relocating it or something? I'll confirm all the details with the way they done the oil n water lines when I pick it up this arvo...I hope it will be this arvo lol It's getting catback done this morning then it's on the rollers for tuning. Coincidentally it's my car's birthday today, had her for exactly a year now!

Targa roof is pretty cool, though I got over it pretty quickly when I had my NX Coupe for 2 months lol Was a first car, affordable sporty SR20 run around What I liked though was that I could remove the inserts on the targa roof and use it like a sun roof

Edited January 18, 2009 by N-DAWG

[666DAN]

Yeah there is a leak in the targa roof, I'm thinking of using silicone to permanently seal it. I'll never use it I'd say, too much messing around unlike a sunroof.

Fixing the loom up today, then engine is actually pretty good, just the rocker covers seals need replacing and a minor clutch line leak.

[dori34]

^ minor issues sorted = turbo it sooner

u need a turbo for ur conversion??

got a vq30det lying around u can take for $150

[666DAN]

^ minor issues sorted = turbo it sooner

u need a turbo for ur conversion??

got a vq30det lying around u can take for $150

May be a tad laggy on the 1.8, I've actually got a GT28R lined up for it if I don't change my mind in the mean time.

One things for sure, tons of intercooler room, the front has a giant void!!!

[dori34]

Lolz 600x300x100 MM core here it comes!!

do it!

fully sick doses bro

[N-DAWG]

Got my Skyline back today!

Man it feels different!! It's been tuned for 7PSi at the moment, the boost is doing something very weird...at first the tuner thought it was the front wheel but he checked it and it was fine...so a EBC is going to be next up in the future to be able to smooth that out and run bit more boost.

The other thing is that without the factory crossover pipe, they weren't able to run the factory BOV, so it's running without one which whilst sounds good I still plan to plumb it back in with a blumback BOV. The tuner agrees that it's best to have a BOV, but seems to think it's safe to run it how it is...

Took it for a fair bit of a drive, didn't really thrash it as such, still getting the feel for it...took it from slacks to mt gravatt around the block, up the lookout, then stopped on the side for a while car still running...and noticed it started idling strange, almost sounding like a rotor rev rev rev rev rev... and shaky... thought maybe it's just the way it is at idle, went to drive off, and still shaky and revs sounding almost like a WRX... Does this sound like coilpacks? Or maybe something not quite right with tuning?

I called the workshop and they said to bring it in, they doubt it's the tune, but they said to bring it in to check it out...

So now I've gotta wait it out till tomorrow morning now :S

[666DAN]

Yep sounds like the packs are starting to go WRX noise is the giveaway. Also BOV is a must, I can't explain how shit my car feels with the BOV not working, you lose massive amounts of power between gears as it takes more time to get the turbo up to speed.

[N-DAWG]

Yeah just done a search for coilpacks and found eleventybillion and one threads all with my car sounds like a WRX damn...more money lol

Looking at Just Jap ones for $399...or should i spend the extra on super spark or splitfires? I've heard the justjap ones are as good...

It will be interesting to see if it's still doing its WRX impersonation tomorrow morning lol

And yes I definitely want to get a plumback system soon! The chatter sound is kinda cool in a way, yeah it gets the looks n all, but also not the looks I want.

Well tomorrow morning I'll be taking it down to them for them to check it over as I said I would...then if it's coilpacks and they have reasonably priced ones in stock I'll just change them...otherwise it means ordering them.

Is it safe to drive the way it is?

[666DAN]

Yeah I'd pay the extra $100 and get Splitfires, I've had a set for 3 years now and haven't looked back

The car is safe to drive, it's just annoying that's all really.

What turbo did you end up going with? If it's the stock turbo, your car will be huffing and puffing all over the place haha so much boost so early

oh yeah did they trick the baffle to stay open all the time????

[Samon]

Hey guys,

just thought I'd share my recent experience doing my NA->T conversion...

Well over the past few months I have been gathering up all the required bits and pieces to do my NA->T conversion... just picking up bits as I came across them cheap, etc.

Anyway, took 2 weeks off over xmas/newyears and spent a fair bit of time out in the garage ripping my engine to bits and then putting on all the turbo bits.

I actually picked up a blown R33 S2 RB25DET engine (broken rod) really cheap, and used heaps of bits out of that.

The water supply for the turbo was T-pieced into the heater line just before the heater tap, and returned into the block via the standard banjo fitting... my block had the hole there but just with a blanking bolt in it... Oil was taken from the oil banjo on the block, again which had a blanking bolt in it, but for some unknown reason the oil return WASNT there... I had to tee it into the head oil return line, so I put a much bigger fitting on that line to cope with the extra oil.

The engine came with the stock dump pipe which I used, and I picked up a pacemaker 3" front pipe off the forums. I already had a full 3" exhaust system sitting in the garage which was on the car when I bought it but was too big for N/A (not to mention incredibly loud and droney) so this meant I had 3" all the way from the dump.

I looked at swapping the injectors over without removing the plenum, but it just looked like too much stuffing around, so I decided to swap the plenum over to the turbo one as well... though in reality the only real purpose that this served was to provide a line to control the factory blowoff valve and somewhere to connect up my boost gauge!

I made a custom pod box and used flexible intake hose from the AFM to the turbo, and bought a CoolingPro FMIC with piping to suit. I just had to get one little piece of piping (turbo to cooler) made up and that all just worked.

I grabbed a TurboSmart manual boost controller and hooked it up between the FMIC cold pipe (already had the nipple) and the wastegate actuator, and wound it right out to basically nothing (i.e. just whatever the wastegate spring would hold) for the time being.

I bought an eManage Blue a while back, but it was second hand and had the loom for an S15/200SX. I figured I would just chop up the loom to fit the 'line. Clearly I wasn't thinking too much at the time... but didn't click that that was only 4 cyls. So I couldn't actually hook up the injector or ignition harnesses, just the AFM (and tach, etc).

I hooked it up, entered the injector size values and exported the blank map to the unit.

Now it was time to actually start the engine! Of course the battery had gone flat as I'd been running a 12V worklight off it, so I had to jumpstart it, but to my excitement it kicked over straight away and it all seemed good! (actually... to be honest I had a massive exhaust leak which turned out to be that I'd forgotten to do up the dump-front pipe bolts did them up and it was all good!)

I noticed it sounded like it had a bit of a miss at idle, but just figured that would all be sorted with a tune...

Anyway, put the front bar (cut the reo to fit the cooler and cut the 'mouth' of the front bar (R33 S1 Type M) for better airflow... and coz it looked awesome!), headlights, grill, bonnet, etc back on and took it for a bit of a spin (no tune yet, just the adjustment for the injector sizing...).

I can certainly relate to 666DAN's observation that it sounded like an electric leaf blower under there! I had the 'lid' off my custom pod box, but you could hear it spooling up soooo loud! And the BOV noise was incredible

Now, because I hadn't had it tuned yet, I knew I couldn't push things, but even so, it was like a totally different car to drive! at say 1/4 to 1/2 throttle off from the lights it would move off fairly gently and then just start spinning up the rears as the boost built!

Once or twice I put the foot down fairly hard and under load it started to ping/knock... so I immediately backed off!

Anyway, went for about a 30 minute drive, on the way back I stopped at a set of lights, they went green, I put the foot down (but not hard enough to loose traction) and looked in my rear view mirror to see... well... nothing actually... all I could see was blue smoke. I couldn't even see the car behind me.

I took it fairly gently from there home... I got home, popped the bonnet and it really sounded like it was running on 5 cylinders. Not good!

I decided I needed to do a compression test. Removing the little hose which connects the oil breather on the two rocker covers showed lots of oil... out of interest I removed the FMIC hot pipe and saw LOTS of oil. Not a good sign!

I grabbed a compression tester and tested each cylinder...

200 - Wow! better than I expected!

200 - Very good in fact!

60 - Ah. That would be the problem!

200 - Okay

200 - Still Okay

90 - Bugger!

So that's where I'm at. I was a little worried at the start about putting a turbo on an engine that, while it seemed to run well, had done over 180,000kms. I'm thinking it might have already had low comp on one cylinder (hence the 'miss at idle' I noticed even before I ever force fed it...), but now it's certainly got two down!

Ah well... time for a rebuild, I say!

Edited January 19, 2009 by Samon

[N-DAWG]

Yeah I'd pay the extra $100 and get Splitfires, I've had a set for 3 years now and haven't looked back

The car is safe to drive, it's just annoying that's all really.

What turbo did you end up going with? If it's the stock turbo, your car will be huffing and puffing all over the place haha so much boost so early

oh yeah did they trick the baffle to stay open all the time????

Yeah splitfires I think will be ther better way to go...spend bit extra now rather than more again later.

I took it in this morning, it's 99% coilpacks, but they want to diagnose first just in case it's an injector, before I go and fork out on coilpacks. Coil packs seem to be fairly straight forward to swap, i've seen the DIY for them so at least I can do that myself.

Ended up going with the R33 Series 2 Turbo, it's only running 7 psi, so it's definitely pushing a lot more power than before though! The boost graph was quite wavey though so no more boost till I get a EBC and probably a plumbackBOV, I think I'll be over having the flutters after a while lol

But yeah the boost is there very quickly! Exhaust has a nice deep sound to it when i put the foot down, but for normal driving it's quite good not too loud, and if I get to my cruising speed around 60-70km/hr take foot of throttle she just rolls very very quietly! Just the flutters are obvious though unless I shift at 2k revs. I've got a tiptronic auto box.

The intake plenum hasn't been modified, maybe something to look at later... for now I'd rather have been spending money on an EBC rather than coilpacks, guess I'll be trying to sell my unused parts quickly first. Costs add up very quickly when doing a conversion.

[N-DAWG]

Coil Pack 3 = Dead

They threw in a coilpack from an R33 Series 2 in the meantime to help me out till I can get some Splitfires.

For now i'm just gonna see how she goes, I don't want to go for too long a drive in a hurry, particularly with long weekend coming up n all, hopefully I won't have any more dead coilpacks in a hurry!

[dori34]

$100 for more splitfires over jjr direct ignitions; show me where please,

cheapest ive found is $615 + delivery on ebay where as the jjr ones are only $399 WITH 1year warranty.

please show me where i can get them from and ill ditch my JJR and get the splitfires right away

ndawg, told ya it was the pack lol.

you can run the boost tee but a ebc is sitll always better.

[N-DAWG]

Sorry, around $100 more than say superspark lol

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sp...mp;hl=coil+pack

Cheapest i've found.

Heard not so great things about superspark, and heard mixed things about the JJR ones...so i'm just gonna look at getting splitfires straight up.