Jump to content
SAU Community

What Cooler Is This?

moomoolulu
 Share

Recommended Posts

moomoolulu Enthusiast

moomoolulu

Posted
Posted

Hey,, does anyone know what cooler this is for??

DSCN5456.jpgDSCN5455.jpg

DSCN5438.jpg

I have a sedan A/T. I'm pretty sure its not a transmission cooler since it should be with the radiator?

So, would this be an Oil cooler?

In images 1/2 it shows the piping going to something that looks like an oil filter ??

thanks...

post-55699-1282621885_thumb.jpg

post-55699-1282621927_thumb.jpg

post-55699-1282621946_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/334078-what-cooler-is-this/
Share on other sites
austingtir Contributor

austingtir

Posted
Posted

Yeah deff the trans cooler my gt-8 looks identical.

On the gt-8 it runs into the radiator and then into that oil filter thing then the air to air cooler. Thats getting pretty serious imo.

Is yours a gt-8 or the normal auto?

Its suprises me if the auto trans has the same setup. I wouldnt of thought it would need both.

iamhe77 Grand Master

iamhe77

Posted
Posted (edited)
yeh i have gt-8.. mmm

so that means i dont need to purchase a trans cooler?

because my new rad doesnt come with one.....

You should have 2 coolers - one in the bottom of the radiator and the one pictured above.

The cooler in the radiator works to try to keep the trans oil at a constant temp, ie heats it up in the winter/when cold and cools it in the summer.

Obviously Nissan decided that the GT8 requires a second trans cooler to preserve the transmission.

If your new radiator doesn't come with one, take it to a radiator place that will put the stock "cooler" in the bottom of the new radiator.

Whilst I don't have the CVT (My Stagea has the RE5RO5A - same as 5-speed V35's - but AWD, obviously), when I replaced my radiator I found that in winter I needed the in-tank cooler (noticeable difference in shifts due to the trans ECU's oil temp settings), so had the stock one ripped out and added to my custom radiator.

Edited by iamhe77
austingtir Contributor

austingtir

Posted
Posted

You should either get the correct radiator with the oil cooler...... or upgrade your current oil cooler when you replace with that radiator your looking at and drive slowly until everythings warmed up..... probably not the best.

Replacing with the correct radiator is the best option as i have seen a chart that shows the best operating temps for the traction oil and it actually likes being reasonably warm (traction effect goes up with increase in temp within its operating range).

If you go with a bigger air to air i would use a thermostat.... assuming the black round thing is an oil filter and not a thermostat.

You need to find that graph im talking about that will let you know what temp thermostat you would need... cant remember where i found that now.

If you do pull it all apart check that black round thing is a filter as im keen to know myself?

moomoolulu Enthusiast

moomoolulu

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

thanks for the info...

so basically keep the stock cooler and rip out the cooler thats in my current radiator... ?? or.. get another cooler??

my radiator is leaking, thats why i'm changing it out.. called up a few wreckers around Sydney and the price for a radiator was around 400... so i felt better off just buying a new one...

austingtir: keen on that graph if you ever find it again...

Edited by moomoolulu
iamhe77 Grand Master

iamhe77

Posted
Posted

Yep, keep the stock cooler and make sure that your new radiator has a transmission "cooler" in it.

If that means you need to get the original OEM one taken out of the busted radiator and put into the new one, so be it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • JoVo
      Auto Electrician Workshop Recommendation for Reverse Camera Not Working CKV36 (SYD or WOL)

      By JoVo · Posted

      Update: Tunehouse looked into the problem and identified a wiring issue between the camera unit and the connector. They managed to get it working , but did warn me at some point it will stop working again. From their perspective it is unserviceable and will need replacement. They did some research and found that the new replacement camera would be Approx $1400 supply only (their fitting cost would be $190) . They did provide the part number (28442-JL05B) and a quick google of the part number shows that these are rather expensive brand new (seemingly no longer in manufacture) for the places that still have them in stock, with the used option potentially presenting  the same issue down the track at some unknown point. They are happy for me to supply the part so that they can fit it. Decisions, decisions... I can definitely recommend Tunehouse (thankyou Vee37!). Cost for the diagnosis was as quoted  ($190) , car was ready on time and communication was top notch. Their workshop is super clean and modern, and there was plenty of car candy parked out the front on the day I went.   Would definitely go back.   
    • r32-25t
      R32 Gtr Long Term Love, Now Project

      By r32-25t · Posted

      to fix the voltage drop issue I swapped out the old 150amp alternator which turns out is a brand known for having issues and replaced it with the black 180amp alternator beside it 
    • S1_C34
      A31 Digital Climate Control

      By S1_C34 · Posted

      For anyone interested, the Way Back Machine has that Japanese website archived with pictures, etc: https://web.archive.org/web/20051023225805fw_/http://www.a31cefiro.com/air_con.htm "Simply swapping the wiring of the harness will not allow it to function properly. For the outdoor air sensor and sunlight sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN1-11 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. For the indoor air sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN2-3 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. The connector PIN numbers listed here are the genuine A31 PIN numbers. To avoid incorrect wiring, check with a tester before wiring. Also, disconnect the wiring in a location close to the sensor. The disconnected harness side wiring will not be used, so be sure to insulate it." Wish someone sold a conversion harness to just plug-and-play a Kouki 180sx digital climate control into C33/A31. I'm decent with wiring but feeling kinda lazy about taking this on. Edit: Did some more digging and found a helpful Minkara blog post about the conversion as well: https://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/1831116/car/1360568/2284209/note.aspx "After installation is complete or the battery is replaced, you need to go into self-diagnosis mode and set the internal air recirculation. The way to do it is to "hold OFF with the key on for more than 5 seconds, set the number to 5, then press 卍→C." ↑↑↑It probably won't make sense unless you actually try it (・∀・)." Lol wtf
    • MBS206
      Skid pans in/around Sydney?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Maybe SAUNSW could see howany members would do a motorkhana day if Schofield's is still available for a reasonable price...
    • MBS206
      Skid pans in/around Sydney?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Skip the concrete, we just need to smooth a field. Mark knows how to drive a grader Duncan   I reckon 100x100 flat area for skid pan style, and then some sort tracks for rally... Duncan's already got a rally car on the premises to...
×
×
  • Create New...