Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm going to relocate the battery to the boot and I'm wondering if anyone has used kits for this type of thing or do you all just go your own route and source parts you need.

I'm not auto electrician so I'm not fully versed on what parts are required.

As I see it, some heavy gauge cable to connect the battery to the engine bay terminals, I'd imagine some sort of heavy duty fuse for safety and I'd like to put an isolation switch in to stop the battery being slowly drained while the car sits as it's not driven regularly.

What's going to be the best way to go about this. I'm all for DIY just not sure what's required.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/334147-battery-relocation-components/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 63
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

We are looking at doing this in our R32 with the cable etc from a R33. This can be easily obtained from a R33 wreck and it comes with all of the protective covering from the R33.

I've just finished doing this. Sprint Auto have metal battery trays that you put in the bottom of the battery box for $15.00.

The cable is only $7.50 / Metre.

I used spiral wrap around the cable to just it extra protection.

I did this on my S15 and in the process of doing the same on my s14 now.

Try to use a dry cell if you are mounting in the boot or inside the cabin.

If you want to do it yourself just measure up the length of cable required by running a piece of string or rope along the required path and cut it/mark it at the required length.

Go to an auto electrician or a welding shop to buy the cable depending on what gauge you need for your application.

Use a fuse as close to the battery as possible.

Run the same size earth from the battery to the body as the power cable and make sure you get a good contact.

A battery isolator switch is a good idea if you are not going to be driving the car regularly and I also got myself a battery charger that I can just leave on when I'm not driving the car.

This time I purchased a kit as I want everything to look a bit neater this time but it wasn't cheap.

Cheers

Jamie

I've just finished doing this. Sprint Auto have metal battery trays that you put in the bottom of the battery box for $15.00.

The cable is only $7.50 / Metre.

I used spiral wrap around the cable to just it extra protection.

Yeah, the conduit does make it look a lot neater. And if you get carried away and want to wrap it in black elec tape it almost looks factory.

Not sure about the boxes - I am looking at these fused +ve terminals http://www.projecta.com.au/catalogue/cid/35/asset_id/84, then a key type kill switch for the cabin, and I need to run an external pull near the windscreen as well. Going to run an earth in the boot and one to the bay - that should have me covered.

So the general consensus is:

- 250A fuse on the +ve off the battery

- 00AWG (2/0) guage for +ve to the bay

- 4AWG earth in the boot and to the bay

Can any autoleccy's confirm this sounds right?

An auto sparky told me to run the earth lead from the battery to the front firewall, then from the front firewall to the engine block. This is if you have an alloy radiator, otherwise your cooling system can have some residual current flowing through it, causing electrolysis of the alloy rad.

Also if you have a normal wet battery in the boot, you either have to have it in a sealed, vented box (not a marine type battery box) or you need to have a liquid proof firewall between the boot and cabin (CAMS and DOT regulation). If you mount a wet cell battery in the cabin, then it must be in a proper sealed, plumbed battery box.

  • 2 months later...

I've got all my gear together now and am embarking on the job but I was wondering, do I need a blue trianlge sticker on the car now? It's only club level and still street reg'd.

I grabbed an isolator that will allow remote pull to swich off but won't be connecting the remote feature straight away. Will just leave the key in the isolator.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If the tyres were fitted when new, I wouldn't expect much over 5 years of use. Especially if the car lives outside full time.  If the tyres had been stored under ideal conditions and are being purchased new, I'd fit a set of already 5 year old tyres if I only expected to get 1 to 2 years of use out of them.  I've purchased many a set of new (but quite old) tyres from St George Tyres when I just needed some decent rear tyres to drift on.  Here is a pretty crazy example, can't say I've ever bought 11 year old tyres from them before though lol.  https://www.stgeorgetyres.com.au/momo-tyres-245-45-17-outrun-m3-official-product-by-momo-italy.html
    • Also, a tip for young players  Check the dates on new tyres before they fit them, I always ask this question at the tyre shop, as they have tried to put "new" tyres on one of my cars a few years ago, but the build date was about 3 years old
    • Yeah - 4 or 5 years is the limit for decent tyres. Pedestrian grade tyres with 400 TW ratings start out hard and don't start to suffer until they are somewhat older again. But the stickier decent stuff? Nup. My current ADO9s are < 2 yrs old, 17000km in, only have about the minimum 2mm of tread depth left, and they are.....not what they used to be. They are clearly much harder now than when new. Whether that is heat cycles (unlikely, for a road tyre), different compound between top and bottom of tread, or actually aging out (in less than 2 years!!!) is not really able to be discerned. But I'd credit actual aging as being at least part of the cause. I've got an old pair of ~50% worn AD08Rs in the shed that I really need to get rid of. They started feeling waaaay too hard to put back on the car after a couple of years sitting there.
    • Personally I wouldn't put tyres over 4 or 5 years old on any of my own cars. Once they go hard the grip characteristics completely change. As per most things it only matters in an accident and that's when you most want them to do their job!
    • I'm replacing the front tyres on the E39 tomorrow because one of them has a few gouges out of it. There is so much tread still on them but they're also 9 years old and the rubber is super hard.  This falls within the guidelines of 10 years old that I've read which surprises me given their condition.  I'm curious about whether you guys care about tyre age or just judge the tyre based on condition? How old would you consider too old?
×
×
  • Create New...