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Battery Relocation Components

No Crust Racing
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No Crust Racing Grand Master

No Crust Racing

Posted
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I'm going to relocate the battery to the boot and I'm wondering if anyone has used kits for this type of thing or do you all just go your own route and source parts you need.

I'm not auto electrician so I'm not fully versed on what parts are required.

As I see it, some heavy gauge cable to connect the battery to the engine bay terminals, I'd imagine some sort of heavy duty fuse for safety and I'd like to put an isolation switch in to stop the battery being slowly drained while the car sits as it's not driven regularly.

What's going to be the best way to go about this. I'm all for DIY just not sure what's required.

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Victory Mentor

Victory

Posted
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We are looking at doing this in our R32 with the cable etc from a R33. This can be easily obtained from a R33 wreck and it comes with all of the protective covering from the R33.

No.96 Community Regular

No.96

Posted
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I've just finished doing this. Sprint Auto have metal battery trays that you put in the bottom of the battery box for $15.00.

The cable is only $7.50 / Metre.

I used spiral wrap around the cable to just it extra protection.

«Cyph3r» Experienced

«Cyph3r»

Posted
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I did this on my S15 and in the process of doing the same on my s14 now.

Try to use a dry cell if you are mounting in the boot or inside the cabin.

If you want to do it yourself just measure up the length of cable required by running a piece of string or rope along the required path and cut it/mark it at the required length.

Go to an auto electrician or a welding shop to buy the cable depending on what gauge you need for your application.

Use a fuse as close to the battery as possible.

Run the same size earth from the battery to the body as the power cable and make sure you get a good contact.

A battery isolator switch is a good idea if you are not going to be driving the car regularly and I also got myself a battery charger that I can just leave on when I'm not driving the car.

This time I purchased a kit as I want everything to look a bit neater this time but it wasn't cheap.

Cheers

Jamie

«Cyph3r» Experienced

«Cyph3r»

Posted
Posted
I've just finished doing this. Sprint Auto have metal battery trays that you put in the bottom of the battery box for $15.00.

The cable is only $7.50 / Metre.

I used spiral wrap around the cable to just it extra protection.

Yeah, the conduit does make it look a lot neater. And if you get carried away and want to wrap it in black elec tape it almost looks factory.

paulR32gtr Mentor

paulR32gtr

Posted
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Not sure about the boxes - I am looking at these fused +ve terminals http://www.projecta.com.au/catalogue/cid/35/asset_id/84, then a key type kill switch for the cabin, and I need to run an external pull near the windscreen as well. Going to run an earth in the boot and one to the bay - that should have me covered.

So the general consensus is:

- 250A fuse on the +ve off the battery

- 00AWG (2/0) guage for +ve to the bay

- 4AWG earth in the boot and to the bay

Can any autoleccy's confirm this sounds right?

warps Mentor

warps

Posted
Posted

An auto sparky told me to run the earth lead from the battery to the front firewall, then from the front firewall to the engine block. This is if you have an alloy radiator, otherwise your cooling system can have some residual current flowing through it, causing electrolysis of the alloy rad.

Also if you have a normal wet battery in the boot, you either have to have it in a sealed, vented box (not a marine type battery box) or you need to have a liquid proof firewall between the boot and cabin (CAMS and DOT regulation). If you mount a wet cell battery in the cabin, then it must be in a proper sealed, plumbed battery box.

  • 2 months later...
No Crust Racing Grand Master

No Crust Racing

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I've got all my gear together now and am embarking on the job but I was wondering, do I need a blue trianlge sticker on the car now? It's only club level and still street reg'd.

I grabbed an isolator that will allow remote pull to swich off but won't be connecting the remote feature straight away. Will just leave the key in the isolator.

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