Battery Relocation Components

[phunky_monkey]

Dan, you'll have to put the blue triangle on if you're going to race with SAU/WRX club.

[No Crust Racing]

Ahh thanks for that.

Is the blue triangle with the lightning bolt used to show the location of the isolator switch?

And on that, does it matter where I put the switch? Is closer to the battery better?

Edited November 7, 2010 by ActionDan

[phunky_monkey]

Ahh thanks for that.

Is the blue triangle with the lightning bolt used to show the location of the isolator switch?

Yep.

And on that, does it matter where I put the switch? Is closer to the battery better?

Not sure. Mine is quite close, but I didn't do it.

[Beer Baron]

there are sometimes regs about location of isolator switch for certain classes and cars. usually it's base of the a pillar. on the scuttle panel and marked with the blue triangle with lightening bolt.

[No Crust Racing]

This bad boy showed up today. Hoping to finish wiring and fire it up this weekend maybe.

[No Crust Racing]

Almost done,

Wiring is fixed in place under the car, all the terminals have been crimped and wrapped, isolator works fine, voltage from front to rear is good, car cranks well and starts quickly.

Just gotta make a bracket to hold the battery in place now, and fix the cable to the boot floor.

Orientated the isolator so that I can use the elec aerial hole for the remote pull location.

I'm no auto electrician or master mechanic so I'm sure it looks agricultural to some but it works

[PRO_32]

If that isolater does not have a fuseable link built in (doubt it) you may want to put one in pref as close to the battery as possible, pretty sure there was another thread around with some nifty circuit breakers with push button isolaters.

out of curiosity wht kinda voltage drop did you have from the engine bay to the battery?

Almost done,

Wiring is fixed in place under the car, all the terminals have been crimped and wrapped, isolator works fine, voltage from front to rear is good, car cranks well and starts quickly.

Just gotta make a bracket to hold the battery in place now, and fix the cable to the boot floor.

Orientated the isolator so that I can use the elec aerial hole for the remote pull location.

I'm no auto electrician or master mechanic so I'm sure it looks agricultural to some but it works

[No Crust Racing]

auto elec said it wasn't needed and used the r33 as an example.

Just wondering how that would work too, would you need a fuse to handle the full pca rating or just the cca rating?

Voltage at battery is 12.64v and with ignition on it's 12.31v at the connection point in the engine bay.

Dunno what it is when cranking as I've only got one pair of hands right now.

[paulR32gtr]

Just wondering how that would work too, would you need a fuse to handle the full pca rating or just the cca rating?

Yeah there are fuses that can handle the starter or a winch, but still sensitive enough to blow in the case of a direct short.

This is what I am using for +ve battery terminal with its specific "cal2" fuse built in:

http://www.projecta.com.au/catalogue/cid/35/asset_id/84

[No Crust Racing]

Ahh yeah I've seen those, looks the goods.

[StealthX]

Hey kids, would this sort of set-up be ok? In terms of legalities and safety...

It's a vented box that's held down by a strap, as you can see in the pics, the strap is mounted around the baby seat mount.

Tis a dry cell battery.

Still need to purchase the cabling, isolator and fuse.

Look like an ok spot?

[StealthX]

Anyone?

[Ad's]

Don't battery boxs need to be slightly vented?

[StealthX]

It's a vented box that's held down by a strap, as you can see in the pics,

[warps]

Battery boxes need to be sealed, and vented to outside.

However, as you're using a dry cell battery, I'm pretty sure it will be OK (not 100% sure on the legalities there)

As for your method of fixing - I hope there are some forms of bolts holding it down. A single strap to a hook directly under the battery will give you very little support in any direction. The battery will be able to move around, and fray the strap.

Best to bolt the sucker down - you still can't beat the good old bolt down battery strap.

[No Crust Racing]

I'm not sure about legalities but I know from a scrutineering point of view the box only has to be vented of you're not using a dry cell.

Finished making the bracket and securing the cable.

Was my first crack at welding so was happy with the result.

[Beer Baron]

yeah that's more like it. well done.

[Marlin]

My 32 currently has a normal battery in the normal space, but I have an Odyssey dry cell to go in the boot, and reading the side of the battery it says it still produces vapours and should be vented externally?

Ummmm, WTF?

[No Crust Racing]

WTF indeed.

I was under the impression that they needed air around them and couldn't be fully sealed up in a box but I didn't think they required external venting and could be mounted in any orientation.

[Marlin]

Maybe I'm over-reacting?

Tell me what you make of this text guys?