Jump to content
SAU Community

Knock Levels/Readings

DR.ZOIDBERG

By DR.ZOIDBERG,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

DR.ZOIDBERG Proficient

DR.ZOIDBERG

Posted
Posted

Hey

I just got a Power FC Pro in my R32 GTR, I was wondering what levels or knock are normal and what is bad.

Like whats the max level it can go to but still be ok??

I cant seem to find any info

Im running my power fc pro on bass map atm due to waiting for $$ for tune, so will my knock levels go down after tune??

If anyone can help me with this info

Thanks

M3M3NTO

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33417-knock-levelsreadings/
Share on other sites
T0nyGTSt Grand Master

T0nyGTSt

Posted
Posted

This is a general FYI that should be available in a search.

The FC has a synthetic knock sensor. It is only a guide and really only as accurate as the sensors themselves.

A good reason is around 10-15 or less on load, a hot engine, all boost levels.

Older engines do anywhere from 30-40-50.

Make it what you will of motors in the 60/70+ range.

Again FYI.

My motor did a 7-8-9 before it blew.

It still does a 7-8-9 after the rebuild.

ie. I phuqqed a completely good motor but I still have a completely good motor after the new pistons etc.

T.

GunMetalR33 Mentor

GunMetalR33

Posted
Posted

Your Knock levels will go down after a tune. If your car is knocking under load it could be leaning of a little. Your tuner will add some fuel at that point in the map, you can use the map tracer function your self to find exactly where in the map your car is knocking. The tuner could also retard the timing a little to reduce the knock.

Like TonyGTST said: Your knock sensor on the pfc is only really usfull when the car is idling, its main function is only to tell you if something is really wrong when first installing the pfc.

ps, when driving if you see the engine warning light come on back off staight away or you risk a blow out....

hope that helps.

Amaru Veteran

Amaru

Posted
Posted

We dont get Synergy in Canberra... it is Mobils high octane PULP, and its damn good (filled up my car in Sydney with it before heading back to Canberra). My car never knocks whilst driving above 3, its 99% of the time always on 1. Ive just had the engine rebuilt and its running pretty rich, which might have something to do with it.

JimX Grand Master

JimX

Posted
Posted
i've hit 150 on my powerfc.

optimax is the worst fuel. ultimate is the best. i notice significant knock level differences when using the different fuels. synergy sits somewhere in between, probably closer to optimax.

i've never audibly heard it detonate.

Not this argument again. I would say that if you hit 150 knock on your PowerFC, it says more about your car than the fuel you used. I have never had a problem with Optimax. Although I only prefer it because the stations with it are more plentiful and I know where to find it cheapest. Only about 1 in 5 BP stations carry Ultimate in Sydney.

Once every BP starts carrying Ultimate I may change my preference but until then, or I strike a problem with Optimax, I will be happy pulling into any cheapass Shell I see and know that I can get 98RON fuel there.

In my area a few Mobils also carry cheap fuel until Wednesday or sometimes Thursday. If I'm out of fuel on one of those days and I see a cheap Mobil, I have no problems filling up with Synergy at 10cpl less than everyone else.

DR.ZOIDBERG Proficient

DR.ZOIDBERG

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I use shell, and the max knock I got was 25 on standard boost and 63 at 1 bar, my power fc pro is untunned and running bass map till I get the $$ and some more mods

Im guessing once tuned my knock level will go down alot?

franks Veteran

franks

Posted
Posted
Not this argument again. I would say that if you hit 150 knock on your PowerFC, it says more about your car than the fuel you used. I have never had a problem with Optimax. Although I only prefer it because the stations with it are more plentiful and I know where to find it cheapest. Only about 1 in 5 BP stations carry Ultimate in Sydney.

i have to admit that i cannot quantify what i claim with any hard evidence - it is purely observation and i say it with the utmost unbiased opinion.

i definately see no performance difference between the 3 fuels but i can firmly say that on higher loads when fueled with BP Ultimate my knock sensor reading will remain *relatively lower* compared to the other brands.

yes it's obvious the tune is poor towards the top end of the rev range, but my argument is the powerfc tune remains constant whilst my brand of fuel is changing (and i fill up each time with a full tank) and the trend is consistent.

yes the weather and time of day is definately a variable in this equation but my argument to that is i've had too many tanks of fuels in varying weather conditions to justify this reasoning.

id definately be interested in hearing what you have to say about the car over the fuel?

cheers,

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • SeanR32GtSt
      Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread

      By SeanR32GtSt · Posted

      I know this one’s the BB one. My tuner did make mention about the actuator. I am curious about the VCT as well
    • hypergear
      Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread

      By hypergear · Posted

      Might also needs a stronger actuator with the right preloading. With older 2019 built bush G3 units, BB upgrade or 21U housing down size makes a pretty decent gain in response as well. 
    • Desean Strickland
      Need help/advice with bearing taper clearance, eccentricity and arp studs.

      By Desean Strickland · Posted

      Hey lads  so im finally putting together my rb30 forged bottom end and ran into an issue. I measured my main bearing clearance with arp main studs torqued to 60 ft-lbs using ACL H series STD size bearings and standard, un-ground crank shaft journals and got an oil clearance reading of about 1.3 thou measuring straight up and down and about 2.8 thou measuring at a 45 degree angle (just above and below the parting line). My machine shop said they measured the main tunnel and it was all within spec (they didnt say the actual measurement) and to go with a standard size bearing, which i have done and the clearance is too tight, I'm guessing because of the extra clamping force from the arp studs distorting the main tunnel. I was wanting to run about 2.5 thou main bearing clearance.  My questions are: 1. could i just use the HX extra 1 thou clearance ACL bearings? that would fix my straight up and down clearance making it about 2.3 thou, but then would the side to side clearance be too big at around 3.8 thou? 2. what actually is the recommended main bearing clearance for measuring near the parting line / side to side. i know its supposed to be bigger as the bearing has some eccentricity built into it but how much more clearance should there be compared to the straight up and down measurement? at the moment there is about 1.5thou difference, is that acceptable or should it be less? 3. If i took the engine block + girdle back to the machine shop and got them to line bore the main tunnel (like i told them to do the first time, but they said it didnt need it) what bearing size would i buy? the STD size bearing shells already slide in fairly easily with no real resistance, some even falling out if i tip the girdle up-side-down. If im taking material out of the main tunnel would i need a bearing with extra material on the back side to make up for it? this is probably confusing af to read so if something doesn't make sense let me know and ill try explaining in a different way. My machine shop doesn't come back from christmas break until mid January, hence why i'm asking these questions here. TIA for any help or info 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I bought the model back in Japan in Feb. I realised I could never build it, looked around for people who could build it, turns out there's some very skilled people out there that will make copies of 1:1 cars or near enough. I'm not really a photo guy... but people were dragging me in a group chat for the choice of bumper as someone else saw the car before it was finished as they are also a customer of that shop. I took the photo in the above post because I was pretty confident that the lip would work wonders for it. Here's some more in-progress and almost-done pics. It gives a good enough idea as to what the rear looks like!   I have also booked in a track day at the end of January. Lets all hope that is nothing but pure fun and games. If it's not pure fun and games, well, I've already got half an engine spare in the cupboard 
    • soviet_merlin
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Well, do ya, punk? Seriously though, let's fu<king go! The colour and kit looks amazing on the car. Do you have any shots from the rear? I don't quite follow how the model came around. You bought the white kit and he modified it to match your car? Looks nuts either way!
×
×
  • Create New...