Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys ,

I am located in tullamarine Melbourne. I recently wrote of my Black R34 2001 GTT Series II and I was not insured so im therefore stripping the car for parts to get whatever I can back. Im selling the car as is for $1000 and the parts listed below are sold separately . The car as is includes pretty much all the mechanical parts apart from the intercooler so engine gearbox diff rear brakes stock wheels windscreen suspension etc. The rear interior is also fine but front interior is all damaged. Steering wheel also appears to be usable. The damage is pretty bad as you can see from the pics but the engine appears to be undamaged. So this car is perfect for someone who is doing a reco etc. I simply dont have the mechanical skills to take off all the parts so Im selling it cheap as is coz its just sitting at the front of my house and I need it gone. Open to any reasonable offer keeping in mind the 2001 model is very rare and the car was very clean , I was only driver in Australia and only drove it for about 6 months (engine done 120,000km). I will also post interstate via cash on delivery or courier if needed. CALL OR TEXT ME ANYTIME ON 0423809544 FOR ANY QUOTES QUESTIONS PRICES OFFERS MORE PICS ETC ..

Some pics of the car as is

post-75291-1279969792_thumb.jpg

post-75291-1279969840_thumb.jpg

img-resized.png Reduced 96%post-75291-1282658777_thumb.jpg 3264 x 2448 (1.89MB)//

img-resized.png Reduced 93%post-75291-1282658875_thumb.jpg 2048 x 1536 (1.31MB)//

img-resized.png Reduced 96%post-75291-1282659241_thumb.jpg 3264 x 2448 (1.78MB)//

The parts for sale that are off the car and ready to sell are:

1. Rear bar - excellent condition - $200

post-75291-1280231217_thumb.jpg

2. Rear lights - $250

post-75291-1280231356_thumb.jpg

3. Front Pair of Xenon lights - $500 SOLD

4. Stock intercooler + piping and box - $100 SOLD

5. Front Series 2 bar with grillz (tiny dint) - $250

post-75291-1280231595_thumb.jpg

6. Complete drivers side door with mirror power windows and all - excellent cond just needs a good wipe- $300

post-75291-1280232176_thumb.jpg

post-75291-1280232260_thumb.jpg

7. Stock Spoiler $150

8. Front headrests - $80

9. Cd Stacker $70 (also have a pioneer japanese dvd navigation unit that came in the car from japan for sale)

CALL OR TXT 0423809544 ANYTIME !!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/334173-r34-gtt-2001-write-off/
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reading your posts Josh, sometimes I feel like I've gone in a time machine back to the 90's when everyone was doe-eyed and figuring things out for the first time.  I've lost track of how many single turbo GTR's I've seen on track that haven't burnt down lol. Everything has been figured out a long time ago. These things are at the point now where its essentially turn-key to go single turbo. 
    • Among other things yes. Making sure to either use an oil pressure regulator or the right restrictor size for your oil pump/range of oil viscosities you intend to run, making sure you plumb the lines correctly, turbo should be placed such that it siphons properly even when the water pump isn't turning so you don't boil coolant in the turbo after shutdown, oil return should be low resistance and also preferably picking the one that is most likely to return to the pickup as opposed to some other irrelevant part of the pan. It's far from impossible to figure this out but I have seen people really, really struggle and if that's the case it's easier to just take the path of least resistance. To me, bolt-on twin turbos are a fixed cost whereas single turbo is almost unbounded.
    • Latest round of updates on the car. I purchased and installed a SWS clutch slipper to help with 60ft times and got some second-hand good condition 275/40R17 Hoosier DR2 radials. Test and tune in November showed the tyres were an upgrade over my over 15 year old mickey Thompson's and I got a 1.8 second 60ft and pb et of 11.71 but even then, that run wasn't great due to rain and driver error (the event got called off 10 minutes later fast forward to the weekend just gone 25th of Jan and there was finally a break in the weather to let racing happen. The first run the track was slippery and only managed a 12.1@129 Second run the track was better and got a new pb et and mph: 11.54@131   Lith and I then worked out that I installed the previously mentioned clutch slipper incorrectly and its never been working, and I had just been dumping the clutch the entire time, we also noticed it was on street boost and not race boost. So I lined up for a third run with the car turned up in the first two gears, but the passengers side axle objected to clutch dumps and left the chat which stopped my weekend.   so there will be another attempt in the future once I replace the tyres as they rubbed and are stuffed now. but a low 11 should be on the cards.
    • Ceramic coating and heat shielding, you mean?
    • Turbos don't require pulling the motor apart so that's "easier". I would recommend the Nismo R3 turbos instead if you want to do stock twin turbo. It doesn't make as much power as the 2530s but it's only like ~50 whp off the mark and should have better response (ball bearing CHRA, slightly smaller turbo). A local that went with a Garrett G30 and 6boost manifold recently nearly burned his car to the ground after the hood insulator started melting and and burning so if you go single turbo I recommend doing a lot of research and validation work to make sure you don't do the same.
×
×
  • Create New...