Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys not sure if its the right section but anyways. Have all the ecu hooked up and everything else

Need help with the wiring guys. I have it all done just no fuel, cant here the pumps running and i have done this:

The first thing you'll need is a 12V 30Amp relay.

Connect one side of the of the relay COIL to wire 49.

Connect the other side of the relay COIL to ECU pin 18 on the ECU.

Connect one side of the relay CONTACTS to the INNER conductor of the shielded cable. Should be the white (W) wire. (This is from an r31 or a pintara not sure) I just connected it to the violet wire which is to the fuel pumps

Connect the other side of the relay CONTACTS to earth on the cars body. Now the relay will cut the fuel pumps earth when the engine stops or it has finished priming.

However this has not worked and I have got no pumps???? Its kinda got me stuffed

The conversion is from an r32 gtst silver top rb20det into a vl

Edited by Nackerz

Basically the information regarding wire 49 and 18 is correct and relevant, because it's a VL but you will be looking at a slightly different body loom/wire colour scheme as you mention. From memory 49 is IGN and 18 earths out via the ECU to trigger the fuel pump relay.

Find the existing VL fuel relay in the car, then look at the diagram on the top of the relay to find the trigger, the thin gauge wires are generally your trigger. Using the trigger wires, wire one side to pinout 49 and the other side to pinout 18. Then establish if the pump needs 12v or ground in order to run with the IGN on, then wire relay accordingly.

The R31 pumps get 12v on IGN, then ground out via the relay, some pumps are the opposite depending on the vehicle in question.

If you have done all of the above, go back with a multimeter and re-check what your getting on pin 49, that is usually the culprit. Make sure your ECU grounds are bolted down as well.

Edited by James_03

OK OFFICALLY DOING MY HEAD IN!!!! ARRRRRRGGGGGGGHHHHHHH!!!!

Now, I have this

A wire from pin 49 from ecu to Relay

A wire from pin 18 from ecu to Relay

A wire from earth to relay

A wire to the fuel pumps on relay

What do I do now. Im confussed!

I think what your trying to say is this. I have that part set up right and all I need to do now is:

Find the trigger wire off the factory vl relay and put it to the same wire as pin 49 on the relay?? Yes/no

Now there is 2 relays factory on the vl for the fuel pump

Ok guys, new day new mind on things :)

What I have now....

Disgarded relay that i put in.

Have a dark green wire from the vl loom which is trigger i think. So I connected it to pin 18 on ecu which is fuel pump relay

Pin 104 on ecu I have put the violet wire too from the vl loom which is to the fuel pumps

Ok turned the key, it primed but backwards.... So what do i do now to change it so its forwards??

thanks guys

Its flowing backwards and blowing bubbles in the tank. Instead of flowing to the fuel rail its pupming the other way. So in other words flowing backwards (the wrong way)

Pin 104 is what controls the pump thought yeah? Which its connected to the positive wire that runs to the pumps, which is violet

300sd9d.jpg

All sorted guys. Thanks for your help!

Feel like a bit of a dick......I could here bubbles and thought it was flowing backwards..ended up being the fuel lines around the wrong way on the fuel rail and it was blowing buubles in my surge tank!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes, but no. You need to keep the mating surfaces bare (ie the flat faces where the caliper and upright pads touch the dogbone) and also the internal threads will remain bare (unless there are no internal threads - do they use nuts on all the bolts?). So you can slow down obvious external corrosion, but not all of it. Anodising would be required to provide decent protection to the alloy, but I'm not actually sure if you should anodise something that is all about the strength. Anodising does reduce strength significantly. Like, up to 50% on some alloys for high thickness coating.
    • Thanks   does painting on aluminium work or stop them from corroding?
    • 'Sgot nothing to do with them being Japanese. The climate in the north of Japan has similarities to the UK - the cars are made in the knowledge that they have snow and salt, and they rot there. Cars made in the US rot like buggery in the US. British cars have always rotted regardless of the weather. They will rot indoors in a climate controlled bubble! The brackets are not unsafe yet, but they will get that way. They may well corrode where the bolt threads are in contact and the bolts could just jump out without warning.
    • So unsafe would you say now?   little bit of has come off, guess road salt is a nightmare for Japanese car. Mx5 here have a well known issue or rotting 
    • Dissimilar metal corrosion. Aluminium is less noble than steel/iron, and will corrode preferentially when in contact with it and a conductive solution (ie, wet road salt). Tends to suggest that those brackets should be made in steel for a shitty climate like the UK.
×
×
  • Create New...