Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah. Camber arm and toe arms are all interchangeable. Some have minor cosmetic differences...but its only visual

The "O" type, or ring type...what ever you prefer to call it, is more due to manufacturer design than vehicle suitability.

Some prefer to make a ring tpye, others have a single rod arm type.

Both do the same job.

The whiteline arms are a great product, however as they wont make the "O" part wider, it is no good with after market shocks as they hit.

fair enough. i never thought they'd be interchangeble since most aftermarket manufacturers, even factory use the ring type for 32s and single rod type for 33s so i thought they'd be completely different but like you said its all just visual

Edited by R33_NICK

Sorry to hijack your thread, but I'm also chasing some camber arms for my R34 GTT and was wondering if it was worthwhile to shell out for some branded Jap ones, or if it'll be fine to just stick with a $200 pair off Just Jap. :D

Sorry to hijack your thread, but I'm also chasing some camber arms for my R34 GTT and was wondering if it was worthwhile to shell out for some branded Jap ones, or if it'll be fine to just stick with a $200 pair off Just Jap. :down:

suspension isnt something you must skimp on just like brakes so to be safe, its best to go for Jap brands you can afford. despite saying that, some non-jap ones like Whiteline are ok just so long they are made with strong materials.

ive just ordered Just Jap's camber arms as im through waiting. I havent heard any bad feedbacks from JustJap's parts and they are made from medium carbon steel so I guess its ok tho i actually wanted the Cusco or Kazama arms(you should see the thickness of their camber arms) since their construction looks solid.

Not unless we buy off the interwebz mate.

Btw, I'll probably be getting mine off Danny anyway. Spent all my money of some new camera shit, so gotta start saving up for these again

fair enough man. even ive blown all my money on my suspension parts already. ive decided on JJRs instead as they seem pretty decend for their price(well thats all the money i have left after buying the other parts).

Edited by R33_NICK

Mods, you can close this now. Ive ordered Cusco Rear camber arms instead. just thought id let everyone know, Xspeed has a pair of Cusco rear camber arms at the moment when i visited them last week. If you want Kazamas, go to JPC and Vision R can order in Cuscos for you. Ive bought my Cuscos online at Perfectrun.jp as they are pretty reasonably priced and you can also check Nengun if you can wait for that long for your parts to arrive.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Let's hope that's not a copy pump either. There were so many copies of them back in the day.
    • Damn it, I was at work last night, and stayed in a room there during the storm with the car outside, but undercover, I just went downstairs and well....there was a large steel locker that has come from some place last night, it wasn't anywhere I could see yesterday, and yeap, it landed on the fraking car....of course it did..... LOL So, I'll need to take it back for paint and panel, luckily it was only the boot that took the hit, so it could have been worse Serves me right for staying at work and getting on the cans with some of the boys
    • Yeah, really happy with how it all turned out As for aftermarket lip, nah, I'm not really a fan for practically reasons on a street car that gets driven everywhere  I did have the full lower kit on my 2015 STI, but found the front lip scrapped alot, even at stock 4x4ish ride height As the NC sits now, with the lowest point of the car at 110mm, so just legal, some steep driveways and steep speed humps will still "just" scrap those little plastic OEM air dam thingies on the undertray just before the front wheels
    • Here's one I help build and tuned a decade ago, Garrett  GTX3071R Gen 1, T3 twin scroll 0.83 rear housing. Went from larger 272 cams down to smaller Tomei Poncams to help with the low end. S13 non VCT motor. Car was purpose built for the track, hence low down was the focus. Note the actual dyno chart shows lower boost, however the EBC and boost gauge showed 1.9Bar (Ignore the torque, I was young and didn't know how to set derived torque)  
    • I’m doing some side developments on SR20det S13 engines, its one my hobby cars used it to compare flow capacity of some smaller size wheels. SR20det is one of another JDM legendary engines I'm sure there are plenty of SR enthusiasts on this forum, I will share results some common turbo configurations here. a quick run down of what the car is: Wide body 180sx Type X with black top engine (blue). It has: Stock bottom end Haltech 1500 ECU 5-0 motorsports trigger kit Kelford SR20DET Beehive Spring with Titanium Retainers Kelford Cams SR20DET S13 188-B 268/272 Cams G25-660 Turbocharger in T2 .64 rear housing internally gated ARP Head studs MLS head gasket 1000CC ID injectors Walbro 450L Fuel pump Front mount cooler kit JJR’s 3 inches turbo back exhaust (its too short for the 180sx it had to be extended) Pump 98 fuel Hub Dyno tune So far made 270rwkws at 22psi full boost by 4500RPM. Engine is very knock limited hence a pretty bad looking top end. From previous experiences it seems like SR20dets are happier with bigger size turbine, some thing like a GT30 would make way better top end, but on same time response is lost. It won't be a problem with S15 VCT engines. I'll be testing alternative turbine housing, turbine wheel and possibly dump pipe options for extra flow to resolve the problem and of course E85 would resolve all the issues.            
×
×
  • Create New...