Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1, have new radiator handy

2, buy tectaloy xtra cool gold (green colour and concentrate - mix with rain water or distilled) found at sprints or supercheap - this is what I personally use and works a treat other people use different brands etc.

3, make sure you have a drip tray to catch coolant

4, have car on jack stands for easier access or ramps

5, take off radiator cap

6, get underneath car, undo bottom radiator hose, let drain, also make sure your not in its firing line

7, if theres auto trans lines to radiator, clamp them with brake hose clamps

8, remove hoses, minimal auto trans fluid should leak away

9, undo all other hose lines etc

10, remove top brackets + any electrical (if there is)

11, remove radiator - double check to ensure radiator is exact match.

then do the reverse. hope this helps.

ps should also be guidelines on back of coolant bottle for mixing ratios.

*note* tho that you may need to top up automatic trans oil level if there are automatic trans lines connected to radiator.

  • Replies 101
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

it shouldnt be a problem, if you clamp the hoses. just go to your mechanic and ask him if it needs a topup or not (should still be fine as ive done a few radiators with auto trans lines added to them)

  • 3 months later...

Hello friends i need some help,2011 i changed timing belt and seals on my R33 gts-t.

from last few weeks i got little oil leak in engine arond the crack seal area and i took car to the same mechnic for check and he said its seem like its crank seal leaking.

do you guys think crank seal leaked after 15000 km ?? he asking $300 for repair..is it right amount ?? please help me out..if you know some good mechnic and give me some idea about the price that will be great..right now i am on tight budget..thanx

Hello friends i need some help,2011 i changed timing belt and seals on my R33 gts-t.

from last few weeks i got little oil leak in engine arond the crack seal area and i took car to the same mechnic for check and he said its seem like its crank seal leaking.

do you guys think crank seal leaked after 15000 km ?? he asking $300 for repair..is it right amount ?? please help me out..if you know some good mechnic and give me some idea about the price that will be great..right now i am on tight budget..thanx

Crank seals can leak in ten min of installed wrong

or crank floating around

  • 3 weeks later...

Hey guys could you please check this mechnic bill/worksheet and suggest me it is right....

Work Done.

1.Remove all belts,timing covers and timing belt.

2.Remove cam and crank gears. NO LEAK FOUND

3.Clean all removed parts and De-grease engine,with cover off also.

4.Tighten cam cover gasket down and re-check all ok..

IF LEAK CONTINUES -WE MAY NEED TO REPLACE CAM COVER GASKET..

final bill $275...

Now guys tell me what to do,oil leak still there..i asked same time when i went to pick car why you didnt changed cam gasket if its fu888ked...oil leak still there...so do you guys think he going to charge me again...

how much time he need to change CAM COVER GASKET?? PLEASE ADVISE ME AS YOU DID IN PAST.

for labour the bill sounds right, BUT they should have replaced the gasket if there was any doubt about how worn it was.

They didnt, because they want you to pay up, experience the problem again, then come back for more charge$.

Go see Shaun at Boostworx

if its just cam cover gaskets you should give it ago yourself, not a very hard job at all, just takes a while to get to them because of the hoses/piping thats in the way, def save yourself some dosh

My mechenical knowledge not that high to try myself,i booked same guy on monday.he said he will put cam cover gasket,but didnt mentioned about money and i didnt asked either.

but sure i will ask before job done tomorow,hope we will come on some agreement.but this is last visit to this guy next time SHAUN thats for sure..

yeah you are spot about the personal experience,after saw all the way while they were changing cam gasket and half moon

i am 100% sure i can change that myself now...far out man cost me $400 total and gasket cost $109.90 so you are right do it yourself good idea.thanx for help guys hope all go well now..

  • 2 months later...

Well I dont have an R33 BUT!.....I do have a R34 GTT Nizmo. With the nizmo exhaust that opens up and shuts like a varex muffler. So this afternoon I un-siezed the valve and kept it open as the switch doesnt work anymore and I cannot find a thread to help me with the motor or relay for this but anywho....The point I'm making is that after opening the valve I realised how restricted the exhaust was and the quite real difference I felt after opening up the exhaust. So if you are looking for more power, then free flowing and opening up the exhaust should be you're first point of call. As for the fuel economy....you bought a high performance vehicle dude :) Welcome to the cub.

  • 2 weeks later...

i changed and last week done service including..oil change,transmission service,plugs change,O2 senson change,brake pads change..total cost me $1000.. but no diffrence in fuel economy and power as well...

Far out 1k for a full service, thats pretty steep, dont even know if that inclided clutch, radiator and brake fluids, but next time do it yaself and save ship loads

  • 7 months later...

hey all people am back to you guys again to get some idea's and help, i searched in fourm for my problem but no cure for my car with search engine.

car in question is R33 gts-t s1 auto with catback exuast.rest is stock.

am having a problem with my car,recently i was driving and on a intersection its just died on me so i thought whats wrong and i started again and its start no trouble.

since then its start great every arvo as i work in arvo shifts,nothing drama's for 20 minutes driving and then its just cut itself dosn't matter i am on intersection or driving its just shut it off and then if i start its good again and after few minutes same cuts out again.

during the night when i finished my job and driving home no drama most of time.

i searched in this fourm and i cleaned AFM,air valve,change oil,oil filter,fuel and air filter but nothing good

today again after 20 minutes driving same situation but driving back at night no problem.

i dont know what to think and where to look....if you guys know anything or faced this kind of problem in past please be kind and show me some right way to fix it.

Thanks All In advance

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Uncle Duncan Yeap, FI Interchiller  Works well, normal IAT's cruising with the WTA only went from 50°c+ to 25-30°c with the interchiller  Before, when on it hard, the IAT would see 80-90°c, now, the highest has been was around 38°c IIRC IAT is measured under the blower hat I recommend it for the street or strip where your only on it hard for 10 or so seconds, but it wouldn't be efficient for sustained track use as it would heat soak from the AC turning off or whatever it does during WOT to protect the compressor It really needs the AC running for it to not heat soak and keep the WTA coolant chilled My WTA coolant temps when just cruising is around 2°c
    • Hey Mark...sorry to interrupt your career change to hair dressing... but...did you ever fit the interchiller to the commodore, and if so how was it? And, who made it?
    • I've been pondering this, I really enjoy the convertible thing, for me, it's like riding a motorbike, without all the issue of riding a motorbike, mainly, my old sore arthritic joints getting beaten up, and, being able to do it in shorts and a T-shirt and not needing a helmet and all the other gear required, especially like wearing jackets and pants in the summer, or needing 6 layers of cloths in the winter, or not having wet weather gear handy when your 100km away from home on the bike when it decides to start raining As for the hard top and its Coupe look, whilst I do lose all that open top feeling that I really enjoy, from my experience with the NB with a detachable hard top, the cabin is a much nicer place to be, the difference in noise for one, a hard top quietens down the interior, alot, with the soft top up or down it's pretty noisy, which, after 5 or so hours, can get tiring But, as you stated, the detachable hard top totally changes the look of the car, in a really good way, and for me, the look of a detachable hard top is so much better than the PRHT which looks more like a after thought with its weird bulbous rear roof line For me, the minimal effort of putting in on, or storing it after removing it, is well worth the time and effort for the look alone And yes, I'm sure the next owner will be grateful for it as well.......  
    • I get into huffs with people when I suggest the MX5 looks so much better as a coupe than it does as convertible. Pretty sure I don't prefer the convertible version of anything. Good job on the hardtop! The next buyer will appreciate.
    • IMO wrap does have its uses, but like you said, quality wrap, and professional installation, would probably cost want a quality paint job does, but, the paint, if maintained, is basically for life, and much easier to touch up if required  In other news: it's pissing down here, with thunder, lightning and only some small hail "at this stage", luckily all "my" cars are undercover  I've also been contacted by a guy in Newcastle about the SS, he said he will come down next weekend for a look, we'll see how that transpires I guess 🫰
×
×
  • Create New...