Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey mate yea i got side shots but it needs to be lower in the rear.. havent wound the coils down yet.. cant be stuffed after putting the camber arms and stuff in lol

and im gettin the plates in black and white soon. so yea it will look better haha

Why lower the rear :) ....stance is fine atm!!.....or do you want to be cop bait?.....just remember full tank of fuel or 2 rear passengers it will look fine. To low in the rear unless you get a camber kit of some kind will just scrub out tyres.

Leave it.....look's like a well thought out car that is actually usable.....rather that a car that people start sentence with "Fully sic bro........"

i think because he's coming from the illest/fatlace/stanceworks background, where that sort of wheel/fender gap does not fly! and they would have told you that kumho's do not stretch well.....

that being said, lovely car, and i love the N/A grill - looks class.

It was lower but when we put in the camber and toe arms it got taller... so yea i need to lower it again... im not looking for stupid fitment but close to it hahha but thanks everyone... and the kumhos are from another set of wheels i had so they not the ones i want/need.

:ermm:

i think because he's coming from the illest/fatlace/stanceworks background, where that sort of wheel/fender gap does not fly! and they would have told you that kumho's do not stretch well.....that being said, lovely car, and i love the N/A grill - looks class.

fully sick statement bro!!!! :ermm:

either you have failed to detect my sarcasm, or i have failed to detect yours.

got your's bud......obviously you have failed though!....but don't worry about it I'm sure you'll fail again!....and bud if my taste is so bad and my setup's so wrong tell me why my so many of my cars have appeared in mag's! :happy: and not the shit box section for readers cars!(just thought I would get in before your next silly statement)

P.S. Constructive good :P ....flaming other peoples comments for no apparent reason bad! :down: ....spelt out good enough for buddy!

got your's bud......obviously you have failed though!....but don't worry about it I'm sure you'll fail again!....and bud if my taste is so bad and my setup's so wrong tell me why my so many of my cars have appeared in mag's! :happy: and not the shit box section for readers cars!(just thought I would get in before your next silly statement)

P.S. Constructive good :P ....flaming other peoples comments for no apparent reason bad! :down: ....spelt out good enough for buddy!

umm yeh.....i think you're still missing the point. i think it is you have failed - twice now. i was just reinforcing the comments by all those people saying that it could be lower, including the owner. he obviously follows the fatlace and hella flush sites (hence the 'illest' stickers and plate surround, and custom plates!). but if you see the cars on those sites, they are a lot lower, with a lot more agressive fitment than this car. stance works is another site which promotes impossible low vehicles with flush and 'hella flush' fitment, as it is referred to in the states. if you don't know what i'm talking about - then visit this site: http://www.hellaflush.com/ - i'm fairly sure jacknessA31 knows what i'm talking about, even if you don't.

so yeh, i wasn't actually taking the piss - it WAS a constructive comment - i belonged to all those sites and had a 'stanceworks - low is a lifestyle' sticker on my last car, so not only do i know what i'm talking about, i actually like that style :

IMG_1465.jpg

Nice, what size and offset for rims and tyre size did you go for on the drifteks?

Do they rub on the back?

cheers

darren

they are 17x9 teks... should have gone 18s... but they are +30 OR 35+ I cant remember haha um 8mm slip on spacers on the rear and 20mm bolt ons on the front.. and all 4 corners have been rolled. the rear did rub dependin on the weight in the rear but wit the camber at almost 0 now there is no problem...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
×
×
  • Create New...