Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

Just wondering if S1 and S2 autos are the same ?

Also the front diff does that just use engine oil ?

The transfer case, thats part of the gearbox so it uses transmission fluid right ?

How do you flush this transmission ?

Thanks in advance

Brendan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/334481-s1-and-s2-4wd-autos/
Share on other sites

S1 auto is pretty much an R33 and earlier box.

S2 auto is an R34 tiptronic box, fair bit different to the S1.

Not sure on front diff.

Transfer case is seperate to the gearbox and uses its' own fluid, have a search and you'll find out what it is.

Just wondering if S1 and S2 autos are the same ? No

Also the front diff does that just use engine oil ? NO, GL5 85w-90 gear oil...where did you get that idea from ???

The transfer case, thats part of the gearbox so it uses transmission fluid right ? yes

How do you flush this transmission ? take it to an transmission shop for best results

Hi,

Just wondering if S1 and S2 autos are the same ?

Also the front diff does that just use engine oil ?

The transfer case, thats part of the gearbox so it uses transmission fluid right ?

How do you flush this transmission ?

Get yourself an auto sump gasket kit and a 20L drum of (ideally) quality synthetic atf. You need 12 to 14L for the auto and you can use the rest for your attessa and power steering. Drain the sump and drop it (easier said then done - you will have to support the box and remove the rear mounting). You will only get betweeen 1 and 2 litres this way. Check that the new internal filter is exactly the same (otherwise the sump won't go back on) and if not either modify the new one to suit or clean the old one and put it back. Put 2L of fresh oil down the dip stick tube.

Then pull a hose off the trans oil cooler and run the engine until you have pumped out 2L into a container. Pour 2L of new oil down the dipstick tube and repeat until you get clean oil coming out. This will take 12 to 14L in total.

I'm totally confused with the s1 and s2 business.

Does that only apply to m35s or does it apply to c34's also ?

And what is this in reference too this thread?

and if its only for m35's and mine being a s1, why is it a 5 speed triptronic?

or is it 4 with overdrive?

Edited by PetroDola
I'm totally confused with the s1 and s2 business.

Does that only apply to m35s or does it apply to c34's also ?

And what is this in reference too this thread?

and if its only for m35's and mine being a s1, why is it a 5 speed triptronic?

or is it 4 with overdrive?

This thread refers to S1 and S2 C34 1996 to 2000 not M35.
  • 2 months later...
Does anyone know what needs to be done to fit a s2 tip auto into an s1? So, other than box & steering wheel, what else (ecu?...)?

if your going to go to this level of f**king about just put in a 5 speed ;-) The tiptronic's not that cool.

Yeah ive thought about the gtr box, as ive driven manuals all my life! But recently ive discovered how easy autos are to drive in peak hour traffic, but they totally suck balls in the hills! So i was hoping for the compromise of auto with the ability to have some control over the shifting when i needed to! (ive never driven a tip gearbox though)

So i guess that raises the question of will a neo ecu run an s1 rb25? (nistune?)

Yeah ive thought about the gtr box, as ive driven manuals all my life! But recently ive discovered how easy autos are to drive in peak hour traffic, but they totally suck balls in the hills! So i was hoping for the compromise of auto with the ability to have some control over the shifting when i needed to! (ive never driven a tip gearbox though)

So i guess that raises the question of will a neo ecu run an s1 rb25? (nistune?)

I believe the short answer to the above is no although my mechanic is fond of saying anything is possible if you want to spend enough money. In fact I don't think the tiptronic has any more abilities in the hills than the S1 box (which I used to have before I converted it to manual). With the S1 box you can turn off the "overdrive" which leaves you the bottom three gears or if you are going downhill with a caravan or car on a trailer you can chop down to 2nd. If you also hit the snow button that cuts out 1st gear so you can pretty much control what gear you are going to use. I can't really see any value in changing to tiptronic.

^^ lol

The tiptronic box is far superior than the earlier auto.

Put a shift kit in it and it's excellent.

As for getting a Neo ECU to run a normal 25.. you would need to find out everything that is different sensor and wiring wise, and change it to suit the Neo.

OR

Just get a s2 halfcut and ditch your crappy normal 25 in favour of the Neo :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The old manifold was quite under the GTR strut brace.  The new manifold is quite [unknown] the GTR strut brace. The GTR strut brace was needed to clear the bonnet vents. The Old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, but not the bonnet vents. The old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, and the new bonnet without vents. But I am hoping the GTR strut brace clears the new manifold :p
    • On the bright side, at least you knew that it happened and remedied before anything happened. A friend of mine just took his Fiat 124 to a shop for an oil change and they didn't tighten the oil filter housing properly. 4.5 quarts spewed out and even after refilling + tightening the cap the engine has a tick now.
    • So, more pain. The FAST manifold is a little larger than the stocker. This is problematic because there really wasn't much clearance to begin with, so going from 'barely enough' well into 'no' is sad based on the external dimensions of the thing, even though where it bolts to the head is the same. Result is the fuel rails sit a good 25mm higher, and this is a bit of an issue with the wiring that runs behind the motor, and the fuel lines, and everything else. When pushing the manifold on, it required a huge amount of force to crush wiring looms to fit it, sensors like the MAP sensor are about 1mm from the firewall, and the FPR just has to bend ABS lines to be forced into place. After some brainstorming and some sad drinking, the loom for some reason ran from the grommet behind the ABS sensor, then to the driver side head, then back to the passenger side head. So all of this was pulled back and stripped, a few wires cut and rejoined, so that the 'branch' was now on the passenger side's head as below: Before you basically couldn't see anything behind the driver head. This is much improved! The MAP sensor is now pointing up (instead of at the firewall) Brackets have been made up for the rail. The rails are for a LS1, the manifold is designed around a LS2 as it's base. Which of course has slightly different bracketry and water pump clearance, hence the mods people need to do. Should be hopefully mounted tonight. I spent money on a new FPR that is slightly more compact than my Turbosmart FPR1200. The gauge has also been moved to the rail. There's also apparently an ORB to AN Union instead of the adapter, because the ~25mm of the current adapter is going to make the difference. Provided this all goes together and arrives today, it'll be the totally not stressful attempt to start it.
    • This seems like a pointless exercise. There is no E30 availability. Ongoing availability of E85 should not be assumed. Flex-fuel is the only sensible approach, so you can use E85 when and where you can get it, 98 when that's al you can get, and anything in between as you fill it up and drain it down. And if that means replacing the pumps, fitting a flex capable sensor/ECU/whatever has to be done to these Renault shitboxen, then.....so be it?
×
×
  • Create New...