Jump to content
SAU Community

Custom Glass Carbon Fibre R33 Projector Headlights Group Buy!


Recommended Posts

any word on price or time to make each one, as by the looks of it they will get bombarded with head lights.

the design looks good enough, anything to get rid of my yellowing plastic

Ok a good update.

Pricing for a rough idea will try to be between $1000-$2000 (this would be without the Bosch HID kit - so option 1 which I listed previously).

Turn around time will be around 1 to 1.5 weeks for a pair of headlights and for this group buy they will do 2-3 pairs at one time.

Edited by PM-R33

Good to hear its progressing...

What exactly is the difference with or without the Bosch HID kit?

I know pretty much nil about HIDs etc, so simple answer is very acceptable...

hey thanks for the update!

i was looking on the Spinto website and you can get the "glass only" option for the supra (i.e. no insert, no projector)

any chance we could do that here too?

Yeah I don't see why they wouldn't do that option aswell.

Yep Dave I thought of you regarding the HID's :whistling: I'll just use my kit I have from you for the time being as it is still going strong, maybe one day upgrade to something a bit more higher end.

umm I know nothing about projectors and HIDs so I have to ask...

there would be a projector lense for low beam and that uses a globe of some sort Im guessin? what sort of globe is that?

and this is all part of the conversion isnt it?

then the HID kit would be for the high beam? is that correct?

and it sounds like any HID kit can be used, so does that mean people would usually buy two HID kits so they can do both low and high beam?

so is the bosch a really good HID kit or would one bought through NYTSKY (Dave) be a good alternative over the bosch that can be part of the headlight conversion...

Please correct me if Im confused...

From factory our cars have two reflectors in the headlight, both are made for a normal halogen type bulbs. Putting HID bulbs into these is not the best due to the lights focal point not being designed for a HID bulb. This is usually what people talk about with HIDs blinding other drivers from glare. With a bit of adjustment of the headlight you can get them ok though and really it aint that bad. Anyway moving on.

What we shall be doing in this aftermarket headlight is replacing the low beam reflector with a projector made for a HID bulb so we get good light output. You will have a choice of buying the headlight with no HID bulbs or with Bosch HID bulbs which are considered one of the better brands when it comes to HID's.

(To people that don't know anything about HID's a normal halogen bulb is just that, a bulb that gets 12V and a filament creates light. A HID uses a ballast to convert the 12V into a few thousand volts - think of it as a voltage amplifier - which is then put into a xenon filled HID bulb. Read this for more info as I want to try and keep this as simple as I can for everyone to understand. It really is quite amazing how they work.)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High-intensit...discharge_lamps

For the high beam, a normal halogen bulb will still be used in the factory projector. Most cars from factory do not have HID's in the highbeam unless they have bi-xenon headlights. Bi-xenon headlights is when one projector is used for high and low beam. This is done by a shield covering a section of the projector for low beam and then moving away when high beam is switched on. This is done so that the projector remains switched on at all times. This is due to a safety issue as when you flick a HID on, it takes some time for it to warm up and produce a good light output.

In our Skylines since the low beam is switched off when the high beam is activated, having a HID in the high beam would cause a moment of no/low light when switching from low beam to high beam. There is other reasons aswell and a lot of technical information that can be found in that wiki link or on the net.

Hopefully that explains it a bit more and covers the basics. The purpose of this wasn't so much the whole HID thing but to get a nice headlight replacement with the bonus of having a headlight made for HID's.

Edited by PM-R33

Thanks for the explanation

so normal globe for highbeams....

and a HID kit for lowbeams either bosch or another

Edited by 75coupe

That is correct, there will be two packages, one with just the headlights (so you supply your own HID kit) and the other with the headlights and a high quality low beam Bosch HID kit. Spinto can give more technical details on the HID kit he will be supplying. No doubt it is a lot better than what most of us would be using.

Most people I know don't run HID's in the high beam due to a number of reasons (I edited my post above with more information so have a read of that again since I explain the whole issues with high beam HID's.)

But yes if you went for a HID kit in the high beam aswell you would need two full kits, so 4 bulbs and 4 ballasts (also makes it quite hard to fit everything :whistling:)

EDIT: Currently our headlights use a H1 low beam bulb, however I am not sure if the Bosch projectors that will be used in this aftermarket headlight use a H1 bulb. This means people like myself would still need to change HID bulbs if they are indeed different. I'll find this out so we know.

Edited by PM-R33

Not to my knowledge.

From what i'm aware, they bought a set of series 1 and series 2 headlights and are beginning to measure them up to begin the design.

Me to man, me to :rofl:

I was staring at my headlights the other day swearing at them that they were going straight to hell....That's a normal thing to do right?

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Right, here's a video of the basic operation at least.  This is what you can expect day to day when you turn the car on and it boots from standby.  The only thing from a media point of view I haven't gotten working is for it to autoplay plexamp when it turns on from standby (it works from cold boot) but that's more of a plexamp problem as it will autoplay other music players.  Also attached is my one stray cable.  It's part of the screen's wiring adapters but there's just nowhere for it to go in my car.  I've just now done a bit of research and found a matching port on a 2010-2014 head unit with BOSE.  Mine has no BOSE so that's that case pretty much closed I think.  Plugging in the Infiniti AC panel basically did nothing for me, so that's a dead end as well.  Next port of call is to mess with this CANBUS module and see what I can find from it.  I found this resource containing the DBC files for a 2010+ G37 : https://github.com/icecube45/Dash_InfinitiG37/blob/master/InfinitiG37.dbc I'll now have something to go from when I try to extract my CANBUS data so I can see if the HVAC Mode, Fan Speed, Temperature, etc. match and also the gear shifter position.  It's a pretty big assumption that it's just mismatched CAN signals but considering all the devices in the CAN network are talking to each other (AC can be fully adjusted just with no info on screen) it might be a safe one.  I will report back WhatsApp Video 2025-02-26 at 12.49.10.mp4
    • Thanks for that Paul.  Do you think if I posted a picture you'd be able to remember where it went? 
    • Sorry Duncan, I didn't get a notification for the replies.  Thanks for responding!  It's a full Android device, but does allow you to use CarPlay/AA as well.  This is the one I bought from NaviRS on AliExpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006368602668.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.111.59aa1802JDzQ0E - the 2K 8G-256G CAM variant but it seems to have gone up by £170 since I bought it!  My purchase was £307.14.   It's not the fastest thing in the world but performs perfectly adequately.  It stays on standby unless I disconnect the battery and let it power down, then it's just a fairly standard Android bootup time from cold.  The DSP Equaliser is very nice and made the standard stereo system sound pretty decent compared to the stock screen.  Perhaps I can take a video of it when I get a sec. It *allegedly* supports the reverse camera, but I'm yet to get that working.  It has options for reverse cam (a camera unit can be bought separately) or 360 cameras (also bought separately).  To be fair it doesn't seem to detect that the shifter was put into reverse but I'm working on a theory about this as well.  At the moment I'm going without which is a bit annoying considering the car is an absolute canal barge but so far I haven't caused any damage I'll grab a picture of the wire I'm missing later today when I can get outside.  My theory, by the by, is that not only is the head unit different, but the CANBUS network has different signals for the different years.  I think this because I have a spare AC panel from a newer Infiniti G37 (as opposed to my Nissan panel) which wouldn't control anything except the volume when I had it wired up with the stock system.  I'm going to throw it back in and see if the screen will respond to it.  I've just ordered an arduino CANBUS module so I can have a look at the signals going around the car and see if I can spot anything.  I'm thinking if I can work out what it's expecting vs what it's getting I might be able to translate and relay the signal back but so far just a theory anyway. I also found this on my travels, so far the only one that specifically matches my car: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002822934280.html?spm=a2g0s.imconversation.0.0.33433e5fgttovi If you look at the picture of the before, it has the card reader slot, and the picture of the head unit is exactly the same as the one pictured in my original post.  I asked if they sell the cables separately but sadly they won't.  I didn't want to just buy this one because it's a super old Android version and only dual core - likely slow as hell. 
    • As above, you did refill the coolant and burp the system before running it again didn't you?
    • To be fair - you see the same thing for every clutch. There's always someone making an installation error.
×
×
  • Create New...