Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

people need some help. want to get your views on boost controllers. apparently a good electronic one ( blitz greddy ETC..) help your turbos spool quicker. how ever a manual one (TURBO SMART BOOST TAP) dosent help the turbo spool as quick as the electronic one..

so whats the go here. is some one talking s@#t again or is there genuinely a diffrence in between the two.

much appreciated loky.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/334510-boost-contollers/
Share on other sites

manual boost T's can be prone to spiking.. cheap alternative to an EBC, they are piss easy to install - i've found stockish turbo cars work fine with manual T pieces so long as your not running like a billion psi.

EBC's are convenient as most these days you can preset multiple boost settings. Also you dont have to pop the bonnet / get outta the car each time to adjust boost. Obviously more expensive than a manual T piece and installation is more in depth.

about the spooling earlier part - dont think an ebc will make your turbo spool quicker, would have though that is more to do with the tune / turbo

Edited by defari
manual boost T's can be prone to spiking.. cheap alternative to an EBC, they are piss easy to install - i've found stockish turbo cars work fine with manual T pieces so long as your not running like a billion psi.

EBC's are convenient as most these days you can preset multiple boost settings. Also you dont have to pop the bonnet / get outta the car each time to adjust boost. Obviously more expensive than a manual T piece and installation is more in depth.

about the spooling earlier part - dont think an ebc will make your turbo spool quicker, would have though that is more to do with the tune / turbo

They may spool earlier only because the EBC keeps the wastegate position shut until the desired boost level is met, so you actually build boost faster and a few of the other benefits are tuneability of the gain functions to control overshoot and settling time etc this is sort of what the "spiking" defari was talking about.

Edited by Nee-san
Ive never used anything other than bleed values, I've never had problems.

Its all about the design of the value (turbosmart ones sadly are bad). And how its installed and combined with the actuator.

Bleed valves don't have any inherent problems and neither do EBC's.

As stated above, the advantage of an EBC is easy setting of levels, multiple level settings and the ability to hold the wastegate shut until a certain boost level. This keeping of the gate shut, helps spool the turbo up faster but has to be finely tuned to be effective. Too early and there is no benefit, too late and it will spike.

lol @ geraus. thanks guys just wanter to clear it up. as the car is at the tuners now and my hks electronic one shit it self and i couldnt get my hands on a electronic one in time and my tuner was busting my chops to get an electronic one coz of the reasons above. im only running 15 pounds on standard turbos. just got bigger injectors fuel pump cam gears and a power fc. hopefully all should be well

my TurboTech manual boost controller doesn't spike at all,

they are a slightly different design to a bleed valve.

Should check them out they are about $30 and extremely easy to install!

Anyone else using the TurboTech manual boost controller, what are your experiences?

Looks like AutoSpeed found them good value for money but that was back in 2005.

Turbotech are a good product.

In my experience, as the boost level climbs, slight incremental turns can lead to large changes in boost. For a stock turbo or modest boost levels they are hard to beat.

(I am sure others have had success with higher boost levels).

I ran one of the Turbotech T's for over a year on a stock RB20 and RB20+25 turbo, good pieces of kit and excellent bang for your buck.

I now run ProfecBII's in both my cars. Had no trouble controlling the violent onset of boost an RB30 + RB25 turbo gives, and has no problems on the wagon with the highflow turbo either.

Edited by bubba
Turbotech's are great! best bang for your buck if your using stock turbo. When first my brought my car, it use to hold 10psi all the way to redline! works great.
Turbotech are a good product.
I ran one of the Turbotech T's for over a year on a stock RB20 and RB20+25 turbo, good pieces of kit and excellent bang for your buck.

Thanks guys, sounds like TurboTech is the one to get when on a budget!!

EBC can spool turbo up quicker by setting the gate preasue. which will only allow the waste gate to open at a set psi. A good manual valve will do the job though but as stated before turbo smart boost t's arnt much chop.

Thanks for reiterating what everyone has already said.

i have had both a bleed valve and now an EBC.

bleed valve was set to peak at 19psi and trail off to 18psi i ran just over 300rwkw with it.

i now have a EBC and the benefit is that i can safely run 22psi without worrying about it spiking badly, and it holds peak boost better. as for faster spoolup i havent really noticed it too much.

the main benefit with EBC is low vs high boost i can change by the push of a button, because traction is slightly better when running 16psi and putting out 280rwkw than 22psi putting out 350rwkw

but the EBC did cost over 4x as much as a $100 bleed valve (incl. installation)

Turbotech are the business for the price...dont bother with any of the other bleed valves...turbotech is not a bleed valve as such...they work brilliantly, I dont know why people need 5 different boost settings...if you need to turn it down to accommodate weather or whatever, just pop the bonnet and adjust it.

Im using PFC EBC only because it was already fitted to the car...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 95 is just a scam outright. 98 is the real "premium" with all the best detergents and other additive packages, and at least historically, used to be more dense also. 95 is just 91 bargain basement shit with a little extra octane rating. Of course, there's 91 and there's 91 also. I always (back in the 90s early 2000s) refused to put fuel in from supermarket related fuel chains on the basis that it was nasty half arsed shit imported from Indonesia. Nowadays, I suspect that there is little difference between the nasty half-arsed shit brought in by the "bargain" chains and the nasty half-arsed shit brought in by the big brands, given that most of it is coming from the same SEAsian refineries. Anyway - if there's still anything to that logic, then it would apply to 95 also. 98 is only made in decent refineries and, as I said, is usually the "premium" fuel, both in terms of octane rating and "use this because it's good for your engine because it's got the unicorn jizz in it!".
    • Yeah since those first 2 replies I actually went and put some 98 in it and tbf it's already doing much better than the 95 (which is weird and makes my inner tinfoil hat wearer think the 95 was a crap batch), getting 8ish around town. Again, wonder if it takes a while to stabilize if the fuel is changed a couple of times. I swear cars used to just either run "well" or "s**t* in my 20s, none of this fuel optimisation business haha 
    • Any number of different ways. Have the coils draw sufficient current to provide contact wetting. Use different contacts in the switch, either by material or design, better suited to the low current drawn by a relay coil. Etc.
    • Hmm, how does the R34 manage to have headlight relays then without getting excessive carbon buildup on the headlight switch contacts?
    • Not R7R. Meant to type R&R, obviously enough.
×
×
  • Create New...