Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

My beloved R33 is dying

It started to lose power on boost a few days ago.

Today it got worse real quick

It started to hesitate and had no torque at all

It was harder to keep idling and started to get harder to drive

It sounded like it was sucking heaps of air and was backfiring

No power on the way home from work

no acceleration at all

!00KM/H on freeway took about a 10KM runnup it was running so bad

Hills are 10km/h

The first warning lamp came on (CAT temp)

Now I have it home it sounds like a truck when I start it up and struggle to keep idling

I have reset ECU Will now look at how to put it into diag mode

I have also jacked it up and considering taking off the CAT and having a look

Any help would be appreciated heaps

Edited by fletch63
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/334885-r33-dyinghelpplease/
Share on other sites

Ok now i've put the kids to bed I've looked at the ecu and can't see where the screw is to turn in on to diag mode

I am working in low light

Ihave checked for air leaks and all OK

Can any one tell me where the screw is for a single LED ECU

Cheers

wait a minute

after close look I can't see any LED or screw

I will plug back in and see id it works like a no LED ECU and shows up on the dashboard

Edited by fletch63
fuel pump dieing?

try another afm also

make sure u take a really good look at all the intercooler piping and vacuum hoses, a tiny crack can be hard to see if its on the underside etc

fuel pump is an in tank one and you can hear it prime up when you turn it on

I thought of disconnecting AFM but couldn't even get the plug off

HELP!!

The ECU diags was a dead end

I plugged in the ECU and turned the key and the engine check light came on as did all the others???????

HELP!!!!!

fuel pump dieing?

try another afm also

make sure u take a really good look at all the intercooler piping and vacuum hoses, a tiny crack can be hard to see if its on the underside etc

Thanks man appreciate your help

I am in Woodvale

I don't think I can drive my car

It is running really rough

It won't idle, It accelerates real slow so traffic builds up behind me

I can just crawl uphills

It seems like it can't get any fuel

So Im about to check the filter

Id like to then check fuel pressure but how???

I know it sounds like an air leak but I can't find any

Sounds like a truck with no exhaust and suckind lots of air sound

Thanks man appreciate your help

I am in Woodvale

I don't think I can drive my car

It is running really rough

It won't idle, It accelerates real slow so traffic builds up behind me

I can just crawl uphills

It seems like it can't get any fuel

So Im about to check the filter

Id like to then check fuel pressure but how???

I know it sounds like an air leak but I can't find any

Sounds like a truck with no exhaust and suckind lots of air sound

Get it towed to the closest workshop, don't drive it you'll just make it worse.

Taking the wifes galant to work...NOOOOO

Anyone know a place close to Woodvale that won't rip me off

Also will attempt to take the CAT off tonight

After all the CAT temp light did come on for a while

Edited by fletch63

Hi all,

The latest news is that I got the no LED ECU to go into diag mode and it all came up good (55)

I then had good look underneath and found there was a nut missing where the turbo bolts onto the front pipe.

Because this is where the loud noise seems to be coming from and the symptoms seem to agree maybe its just that

But there are no signs of a leak and it all looks tight and flush (held in with other 3 nuts)

What do you guys think???

sounds like an air leak

you even said it sounds like its sucking lots of air , probably is

YEAH MAYBE BUT I CANT FIND ONE

SOUNDS REALLY LOUD AROUND THE TURBO/EXHAUST AREA

MOTOR SOUNDS OK BUT HARD TO KEEP IDLING AND NO POWER AT ALL

THE ONLY WAY TO BE SURE I SUPPOSE IS TO TAKE EVERY HOSE OFF 1 BY 1 AND INSPECT IT

ANY IDEAS WHICH WOULD BE THE BEST WAY TO APPROACH...ANY COMMON ONES ETC

ANY ADVICE WOULD BE MUCH APPRECIATED

YEAH MAYBE BUT I CANT FIND ONE

SOUNDS REALLY LOUD AROUND THE TURBO/EXHAUST AREA

MOTOR SOUNDS OK BUT HARD TO KEEP IDLING AND NO POWER AT ALL

THE ONLY WAY TO BE SURE I SUPPOSE IS TO TAKE EVERY HOSE OFF 1 BY 1 AND INSPECT IT

ANY IDEAS WHICH WOULD BE THE BEST WAY TO APPROACH...ANY COMMON ONES ETC

ANY ADVICE WOULD BE MUCH APPRECIATED

The leak will most likely be in the least accessible place possible, it's Murphy's Law :D

The leak will most likely be in the least accessible place possible, it's Murphy's Law :D

I have taken your initial advice

booked into Hyperdrive on Saturday and yes I will have it towed

Andrew was very helpful

I think its either an air leak or turbo gasket

hope no more damage

Thanks for your advice

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Only thing I'd add...is on recommendation from a good diff shop, I've used mineral oil in my diff including the race car for years. The synthetics can be too slippery and glaze the gears
    • 75W90 GL5 is fine. If you aren't sure about the type get one with LSD additive. 
    • Because you're effectively rushing the shift and forcing it to go in - with greater leverage against parts that don't _want_ to go together. Short shift = forcing the gear in harder. Also Redline Heavy Shockproof actively says not to use it in anything with Synchros. Well, it says "not recommended" which is basically as far as anyone will ever say in a product statement to "Do not use" Generally the Redline makes the gearbox feel great... until it fails faster. https://www.redlineoil.com/heavy-shockproof
    • 99.9% of them are viscous diffs. The 0.01% are helicals. They were only option-able in the series 2, as well. I have redline heavy shockproof in my helical. It seems... fine? I don't think anyone is ever going to know until something really breaks and at that point I'm not sure anyone will blame the oil. I just chose it because it's extremely heavy duty and my car will see not-road-legal duty for it. I've also had sadness with various diff oils in the past sweating out everywhere and/or other 'fun' things, with clutch diffs. Given you have a 1.5 way on the shelf, I'd not even bother with the diff in the car and just get to tinkering with it. I would spend the $90 on oil toward the labor of someone else putting the diff in if time poor even lol.
    • I believe mine is helical and not clutch type. During drifting one wheel was spining as if it was open diff so bought kazz 1.5 way and has sat on my shelf for the past 5 years as I want to learn shiming process and do it myself   in meantime thought I change the diff oil hence post here. So any 75-90?   i am pretty sure r34 are helical not clutch lsd as standard . That is gtt ones
×
×
  • Create New...