Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Inmy opinion you guys are really getting to the point of needing some basic alignment and set up equipment.

I'd be getting a basic alligner, an older type laser machine is perfect, decent set of bump steer gauges and a decent camber/castor gauge of the aligned hasn't got one.

Those rear "traction" arms should not be lengthened or shortened unless you have the chassis sitting with bump steer gauges handy to see what's happening, they are a critical arm, guessing can cause all sorts of unpredictable behavior. The hicks eliminator kit you are using is similar to the ones I build, again it needs to be tuned with the right equipement to be set up right.

Spend a few bucks on some gear and you'll start taking leaps and bounds with car setup and learn alot along the way.

  • Replies 137
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Took the car out to an open day at our local track Hampton Downs on Saturday http://www.hamptondowns.com/

Here's four laps of me driving poorly (constructive criticism welcome :) )

Managed a 1:15.1 lap on the RaceChrono

Edited by OLLIE_NZ

Did a bit of messing around with a set of Performance Friction Pads that I was given (01 compound) they we're off an NZV8 car so were very close width wise to fitting in the factory calipers. The chap literally has shelves full of them!

They needed ~1.2mm machined off width wise, some slotted holes for the retainer pins and I had to take a few mm off the pad thickness as even second hand they are thicker than the new factory pads (15mm)

Best thing about them is that they were free :) ~$450 NZD for a set of fronts new

Machined the front discs down as they we're, and still are pretty shabby, plus we're changing from an Endless N35s pad to the PFC01s

img2033w.jpg

Messy job, the vacuum helped my lungs :)

img2036z.jpg

Took around .6mm off each end of the backing plate

img2037mc.jpg

Slotting the retainer pin holes (~8x6.5mm)

img2038en.jpg

Done

img2041nc.jpg

Bought some slicks too!

img2043k.jpg

Also bought a set of 4.3 GTS-4 diffs front and rear.

img2045wh.jpg

img2044e.jpg

Cut the front brake backing plates off too (figure they'll be going anyhow when we upgrade to a bigger setup)

img2046p.jpg

Be interesting to see how you go with the PFC01s. I am running PFC06s which are basically the same pad only for endurance racing so lose a little bit. I suspect they will be great in your car. In mine I have no ABS and they are VERY bitey. Too bitey for my driving and I lock fronts a lot. What rear pad are you running? You will need a pretty good rear pad I imagine to balance everything out....I suspect with the std caliper and rotors up front the pads will work better then on my car which has bigger rotors and calipers and I end up with a tad too much brakign force with such a race pad

Hi Roy, our car has no ABS also, the rear pads are Endless N35s which seem to have far less initial bite than the PFC01s but might be able to run at higher temperatures for longer?

The Endless pads seem to be quite aggressive on the rotors too so we're hoping that the Performance Frictions will be slightly less aggressive in that respect.

Have you tried any Pagid compounds?, we were going to buy some Yellow RS-29s I think which are an endurance pad but the PFC01s were free so we though we'd save ourselves $450NZD :)

Ended up getting an email back from the coilover spring manufacturer Merwede

This is what's written on our springs

Rear 'Merwede Progressive 250 49 98'

Front '25 250 59 118'

This is his email (I've added the conversions in red)

Good morning,

I've looked for the springs in our system, but was unable to find it. But nevertheless, I think I know the spring rates from the code on the spring.

For the rear it's progressive from 49 to 98 N/mm (280lb – 560lb), (5kg/mm - 10kg/mm)

For the front it's more difficult because that code doesn't mean much to me. But if the spring is also progressive, it will be 59 to 118 N/mm (340lb – 675lb), (6.4kg/mm - 12kg/mm)

Hop this serves you well.

Best regards,

Ramon van Dijk

Merwede Springs

Based on those figures fellas, as this is a circuit car we don't want progressive rate springs do we?

What do you guys reckon would be ideal front and rear spring rates for the car, the two circuits the car sees are pretty smooth.

Based on those figures fellas, as this is a circuit car we don't want progressive rate springs do we?

What do you guys reckon would be ideal front and rear spring rates for the car, the two circuits the car sees are pretty smooth.

No you don't want progressive spring rates on race car.

We run 9.8kg front springs and 7.6kg rear springs on our 32gtr and that works quite well. But we used to run it mostly at oran park which was very bumpy and it used to handle very nicely. So it maybe too soft if the circuits are smooth. Best to talk to a suspension guru who deals with race cars not road cars and has knowledge/experiance at the tracks you use. Get their advice on a ball park rate, start there and try a few different spring rates to see what your driving style responds best to.

Small update,

Made some headway into the 'missing' coming out of certain corners at Hampton Downs.

It's pretty basic but should be good for another year or two.

Single Bosch 044 external pump, spare outlet on the surge tank for another external fuel pump in the future.

Apologies for the cellphone pics, will post some higher res images soon.

Surge tank

photo84h.jpg

photo85i.jpg

Tow Hook, looks wonky but it's just the camera angle.

photo83.jpg

  • 2 months later...

Rightio chaps,

Not a lot of news on the car front since July.

Bought a set of near new Michelin slicks (only done 12 laps at Taupo). They were used for a back to back test on a NZV8 car to see if the car would be quicker on the Michelins than the current regulation Dunlops. Apparently they were 2-3 seconds per lap quicker than the Dunlops.

img2478w.jpg

We also bought a used brake package from an NZV8 race car for a very good price and got a few sets of brand new Performance Friction pads 01, 03 and 97 compounds, also a few spare sets of Performance friction front discs and Wilwood rears.

In an ideal world we would have splashed out for a set of used V8 Supercar Alcons but currently can't justify spending that kind of coin and were so sick of the factory R32 GTR brakes that we think this will be a good mid-way brake setup.

We have to design and make new brake hats and caliper brackets to get them to work with the GTR.

img2499r.jpg

Front disc dummied up using washers to space out the NZV8 hat to get some measurements.

img2508a.jpg

img2509j.jpg

Front caliper brackets were whipped up at work on the water jet cutter out of 12mm plate

img2483n.jpg

Rear dummied up, I think the easiest thing to do with the rear calipers is to re-drill them from the 135mm Wilwood bolt hole spacing down to 115mm Nissan spacing and we wont have to worry about a caliper bracket which looks pretty tricky for the rear.

img2498db.jpg

Still not convinced there is enough free space to re-drill the caliper down from 135mm to 115mm.

Has anyone been down this path before?

img2522u.jpg

Very very loose mock-up with the wheel on to check clearance.

img2525tx.jpg

Also bought a set of 17x9" Et20 BBS LMs

184181195full.jpg

Here's our current front brake hat design, pretty confident it will work. Still not 100% certain on what diameter the centre bore should be and also what size to make the stud holes (we're aware the studs are M12).

The hats will be turned up on the CNC mill and lathe at work.

If anyone has been down this path before and sees any errors with our design or would like to add anything please let us know :)

brakehats1600x1132.jpg

Hi Ollie, Unfortunately the guy that made the hats for me is nowhere to be found, I think he has moved overseas after the earthquakes, I needed to get a set of rear brakes done for another guy keen on a set, Otherwise I might have been able to find out for you.

We redrilled the holes for the rear ones, And yes it does get within a mill or two to the old holes, We put a loctite a Grub Screw in the old holes to help with the strength of it.

One piece of advice when making hats for the front, Make sure there are fairly shallow dished, The first set I got made looked like they would clear easily....But when the front suspension comes up the lower king pins rub on the rotor.

What size are the Michelin's?

Wilwood4pot4.jpg

Edited by Sub Boy32
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

Well back from the wilderness that is filming on location and back to reality

Not a lot has happened since the last update but we're hoping to have the car back together for some January trackdays.

Decided to finish the rears in a month or so and are hanging out to get the car on the track so have unfortunately put the stock brakes back on the rear.

Ended up getting a good deal on a set of new discs.

img3323fi.jpg

Made an extra set of caliper brackets on the water jet cutter and then milled a step in them. The new sets bolt holes are 2mm wider to push the caliper further to the edge of the disc.

img3328z.jpg

Garage clutter

img3330v.jpg

Hats are done and anodised black

img3333u.jpg

img3325j.jpg

img3336df.jpg

Wow mate, I just had a read of your whole thread... That's one hell of a nice race GTR...

I'm going to continue to follow the progress and hopefully turn my R34 GTR into something similar haha

Nice roll cage too by the way, whoever made it was a genius!

  • 4 weeks later...

Very small update chaps.

Today I replaced the springs with some linear Eibach springs as the car had some progressive ones in it.

I ended up going for some 800 Ib front and 500 Ib rears after much head scratching.

I got some helper springs to keep the rear springs captive as when the car is up off the ground there was about 50mm of slop with the spring.

Also purchased and installed a Cusco rear sway bar.

On the way from Japan is an Ikeya tie rod end set.

Made a cardboard mockup of the centre console, maily to hide the dash bars. Will probably make the final thing up tomorrow from aluminium.

photoybh.jpg

Rear sway bar

img0263gi.jpg

Rear springs in

img0292wg.jpg

img0291tm.jpg

Fronts done

img0296wy.jpg

img0300xn.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 2 spots that my exhaust guy joined the 2 pipes together  Made a big difference. I'm now able to live with it. I can make it louder if I want by removing the HKS caps.
    • Hi all, considering clutch upgrade to support 1130 engine hp from 1650cc injectors on e50 at 85% duty cycle (1650 x (11.85/14.7) x 85%). Narrows down to these three as they can be converted to use gm 26 spline input shaft if I ever want to use transmission with that input shaft (orc1000f and r3c easy/cheap just change center hub; tr2cd pricier must change clutch discs). Pricing orc1000f similar to tr2cd, r3c about usd 200 pricier. Orc1000f triple plate 200mm. Tr2cd twin plate 215mm. R3c triple plate 215mm. Claimed max torque : orc 1000f 723 lbs ft; tr2cd 800 lbs ft; r3c 1100 lbs ft. Why orc1000f triple plate but claims lower max torque vs tr2cd twins? Is orc1000f underrated? Any info maxing out these clutches? Info on street/traffic driveability/pedal feel? Thank you for any info on them.
    • Some troubleshooting, connect up a timing light/gun with a proper ignition lead on coil 1. Hold the revs at 4~4500rpm and see if your timing is all over the shop, scattering off its tits. If so, there's a high chance your CAS is fked. But I read you have a Link ECU ready to go in, why not just skip all this and put that in - will make troubleshooting so much easier.  
    • Misfires when the car is fully warm are generally attributed to the coils (and/or the igniter, on cars with a separate igniter). They can stop working properly when they get hot for a number of reasons. Either electric/electronic, or from thermal expansion opening up gaps and allowing HV leakage. Seeing as you have replaced the coils, that could/should rule them out. But I wouldn't always assume so. Were the coils genuine? Or is there a chance you have bought some counterfeit Chinesium shit? Then we're back onto loom connections. They can fail when warm/hot for the same reasons. Inspections, cleaning of contact surfaces, ensuring that terminals are fully inserted, etc etc, are all justified. The same (heat effects) holds true for the other electrics and their connectors. AFM & CAS, primarily. If you try that Chinesium AFM, drive it around on low load until it is properly hot, but do'nt give it more load than you have to, except when you need to see if it will still miss. I'm dead serious about the untrustworthiness of the calibration of those copy AFMs. Injectors are unlikely to get hot unless the fuel is coming back around hot. You could try squirting them with compressed air or freeze spray to cool them back down to see if they are maybe the cause.
    • Alright, all the plugs looks good. Noticed that it starts to get bad when the car is up to temp, that's when things starts to misfire hard. next to do is Injector cleaning and such. Got in touch with a shop to do work on the injectors next Monday also help on diagnosis.
×
×
  • Create New...