Jump to content
SAU Community

Hel Stainless Steel Braided Clutch Line Group Buy


Recommended Posts

I have no idea man. You got a link? I could never find whether it was a replacement of the whole line or just the rubber line. In theory though there is no need to replace the hard lines since they can't expand.

  • Replies 187
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Too easy Ben, glad to see the QLD guys are getting them today.

Yeah I wasn't really sure on what the GTR line replaced since it was a different length than the GTST one. But I figured you GTR boys have some weird funky setup due to the AWD hence it being different :P

I think the GTST one replaces the block, but I shall soon see.

Well, I got one for my GTS-t, not the GTR..... Box is marked "suit 32 GTS-t" but I've been looking this morning and I'm mildly confused. lol

Let me know what you guys find?

Oh yeah that's right, you had a GTST kit, my bad :P

My mate has his engine out at the moment so i'll quickly dummy fit the clutch line from the master cylinder and see how it all fits.

Edited by PM-R33

So here is the clutch install on my mates GTST.

post-35676-1286708817_thumb.jpg

As you can see it replaces the entire factory setup :D

Here is the massive factory line removed.

post-35676-1286708775_thumb.jpg

For those kids keeping track of their cars diet here are the results:

Factory setup - 828g

New clutch line - 97g

Weight saving of 731g

Not bad ay :)

It's finished man, hence the pictures above of them fitted.

If I do one again i'll let you know.

Edited by PM-R33

Groovy!

My engine and box is out at the moment so I couldn't get a picture of it in my mind. That's a great weight saving! I'd spend an entire day trying to save that weight elsewhere :D

Yeah it's pretty decent. And in reality it would probably be closer to 800-900g because there would be less fluid used in the new clutch line compared to the amount that runs in the factory line :thumbsup:

Edited by PM-R33

That looks awesome getting rid of all that factory crap lol will be much neater. Will have to put mine in on the weekend. Pics help alot

Thanks again Phil :)

Thanks guys.

I'm going to look into whether HEL would do some custom made braided lines to replace the four brake lines on the firewall (for ABS models) or two brake lines on the firewall (non ABS models) that go from the master cylinder.

No real "performance" benefit but I figured for the good prices we are getting these at it would be a nice looking mod in the engine bay :) I've seen a few pictures of guys that have done it and it looks quite good.

I'll let you guys know if some of you would be interested; I know one of my mates is very keen.

Edited by PM-R33
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you're really considering leaving it, a great question to ask is, is the magnet going to stick to the sump? The answer to the above is the same answer towards if I'd have any level of comfort leaving it... Personally, based on the cost of a motor if the magnet were to cause damage, I'd be fishing it out either way. Use the methods in here. It fit in through the plug hole, it'll come out.   PS, get a small actuatable claw for a bore scope. OR if you know a vet, they have really cool controllable scopes with hooks on the end. Supposedly they're like playing a video game. Ask if they can acquire you one of their scopes... Engine oil after all is just a different type of lube right? Will only make it easier on the next dog or cat...
    • All other (Boolean) logic functions though, are just built on those blocks above. Which does give you a lot of functionality in logic. It is basing that on using thresholds with analogue signals like GTS alluded to.   Not having things like timers will make it less useful for some of the ramp up logic you'd want, and again, on Haltecs capacity specifically, I'm not across anymore what you can / can't do with different tables.   I'm assuming, with your logic you want to implement, not only do you want your timing safeties, you're wanting to be able to derive the duty cycle for your solenoid, to maintain I'm assuming 175PSi? Or are you using a standalone WMI controller to maintain the DC correct, and you just want the Haltech working out which fuelling maps you should be on?
    • It doesn't seem to follow revs. Oddly it seems to follow TPS a little bit from what I can see, but with some delay a bit. IE end of the graph, when he lets off throttle fully, pressure drops a lot, then slowly builds back up, but rpm is on a nice cruisey drop off. I do agree though, it seems very electrically.
    • I just try to entirely stay away from ladder now unless it's something basic maintained by electricians. Even then and to your point, it mostly ends up being blocks I wrote in structured text.  PLC's are slowly going towards C, C++ and C#. I just wish Allen-Bradley would jump on the bandwagon. 
    • All of them are missing. You do not get much done with just AND, OR and NOT unfortunately. Ecumaster for example has a text based editor with at least 60+ math and logic instructions. 
×
×
  • Create New...