Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've looked at JDL Tuning bodykits before, and thought i'd check the website again today... on the home page it now says "COMING SOON - Nissan Skyline R34 GTT to GTR Conversion: All body parts require for body conversion from R34 GTT to R34 GTR, comming soon" and there's a teaser pic aswell. I wonder if this is something worth looking into? Will it be a cheap/affordable conversion compared to buying OEM parts? I wonder if it will also be better quality than the eastbear kit? Their z-tune style gtt kit looks pretty good :D

Would this be something anyone would be willing to try when it comes out? I'd love to see the results :(

http://www.jdltuning.com/?mo=9&m=3

btw dont bother clicking on "read more" by the pic because there is nothing more to read lol

post-76525-1283318720_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/335144-r34-gtt-to-r34-gtr-conversion/
Share on other sites

yeah but i could tease you with some 18 year old titties and then let you suckle some 50 year old titties.. not the same yeah...

i'd be interested to see the kit.. they have one already with the rear guards but says they are glued and screwed on.. sounds still high price to install and sounds like movement can cause issues..

PS.. that wide body R34 is a LHD one??? dash is on wrong side and so it the fuel tank...

Edited by .:: GimpS-R34 ::.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It's not a dumb question. I was circling this idea myself. User error is always possible!
    • Nope. The seal is in the drive. A new cable would just fill up and continue to convey oil to the speedo head. To check if this is what is happening, take the cluster out, dismantle the speedo and have a look. You probably don't even have to dismantle it. If there is oil coming up the cable, the drive into the speedo will be grossly greasy. I had to manually (and delicately) clean the gunk out of my speedo.
    • Thanks for the quick response mate, and I agree Nismo 555s, Z32 and high flow 2871 in OP6 housing (run by PowerFC) would all be "period correct" and should be a simple, reliable and reasonably quick track car.
    • It is normal for a speedo to read 0-10% high (unfortunately), intended by manufacturers and ADRs (although not in this case) to ensure your speedo does not read low if your tyres are worn. Speaking of which, what size tyres do you have on the rear, and what does they tyre placard say you should have? you can use this https://tiresize.com/calculator/ to determine what % difference that is causing Personally, when I buy tyres for a car I buy a size that will bring the speedo back to being more accurate; it if it reads 5% high I buy tyres that are 5% larger diameter. If you had an electronic speed sender like R33 onwards, the other option is to add a speedo adjuster but that won't work in R32. Finally, you  might be able to find a different sized gear for the speedo sender but that will be limited to what already exists (and I don't know what sizes do)
    • OK...so dumb question to check....do the hi beams actually come on when the push the stalk to engage them (keeping in mind your headlight switch must be at ON as well)
×
×
  • Create New...