Jump to content
SAU Community

Tie Rod Replacement

mystery_kid
 Share

Recommended Posts

mystery_kid Mentor

mystery_kid

Posted
Posted

i've got a new tie rod kit here including both ends

just wondering if there is any tricks to know when doing this? it comes across as something fairly straight forward though i'm not 100% sure about the inner end, looks like it just screws in..

any tips would be good

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/335199-tie-rod-replacement/
Share on other sites
tjstagea Apprentice

tjstagea

Posted
Posted
i've got a new tie rod kit here including both ends

just wondering if there is any tricks to know when doing this? it comes across as something fairly straight forward though i'm not 100% sure about the inner end, looks like it just screws in..

any tips would be good

thanks

hey mate just changed a set last week they are pretty easy did them myself also just make sure you have a can of wd40 with ya and when you take the nut off the top of the end you have to hit the knuckle that it sits in with a hammer pretty hard for it to actually drop out dunno why my mate is a mechanic and he told me that and it worked but yeh took about half an hour

DVS JEZ Grand Master

DVS JEZ

Posted
Posted

the inner end you will need 2 big shifters on 30mm spanners, you need to cut the wire off the inner boots and move the boot away so you can gain access to the inner, then using both shifters turn anticlockwise one will release, keep undoing the loose one untill you can gain access to the inner lug, then using a 17mm spanner hold the inner lug ( which is inside the loosened inner, it has 2 flat spots to grip the 17mm spanner) and using the big shifter undo the other side inner,

this is how i did it on my r32 GTR, im sure yours will be very similar

  • 4 weeks later...
LjC Newbie

LjC

Posted
Posted
hey mate just changed a set last week they are pretty easy did them myself also just make sure you have a can of wd40 with ya and when you take the nut off the top of the end you have to hit the knuckle that it sits in with a hammer pretty hard for it to actually drop out dunno why my mate is a mechanic and he told me that and it worked but yeh took about half an hour

i've just lined up a pair of tie rod ends to suit a R34 rwd gt-t, do you think they will suit my R34 4wd gt-four? i've had a look at the ones in the car at the moment and they look the same as the gt-t

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Komdotkom
      High temp brake fluid?

      By Komdotkom · Posted

      Reasonably hard, although I haven't run it with the new Endless setup yet. The old brakes were F50's on 335mm rotors and the car did a 1:40.6 at Phillip Island which is a reasonable time, I'm seeing high 600s on the temperature paint. A guy I know ran the Endless fluid at WTAC without issues and he was doing 1:33's I think (Evo) with a 355/332 setup. I don't get out to the track as much as I'd like but we put the car on the hoist and spanner check every bolt and re-paint mark everything, bleed the brakes, change the fuel, check the coolant system and re-bleed blah blah blah before every event. Motorsport is expensive, RB's are expensive so a couple of hours before an event is time well spent. It's also a net time saving because if you can keep your RB from self destructing it saves you time in the long term!
    • Duncan
      First/Second Post

      By Duncan · Posted

      Welcome Alice......hope you have a bit more luck from here on! What was done in the build?  
    • svenskalice
      First/Second Post

      By svenskalice · Posted

      Hello! I'm new here, I have an R33 GTST that is currently being finished up! Last year was pretty rough, blew two stock turbos so I decided to build the car. Has been down since November, but I get it back next weekend!
    • svenskalice
      Kaizo Industries

      By svenskalice · Posted

      Hello, I believe my car was imported to America in the 2000s by Kaizo Industries. Would anyone be able to help me find more info on them? I've only found all the basic stuff like that paul walker bnr34, them being shutdown by feds, just stuff like that. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!
    • believer
      HKS Vcam Step Pro Issues

      By believer · Posted

      I am using Motec M150.  I am not working on the car myself actually.  My workshop is giving all these info, they are quite reputable in the industry and are very familiar with Motec and RBs and have done a few big setups with VCam and single turbo on RBs.  In fact, they built and tuned my engine from day one.  But they are stumped with my engine at the moment and cannot work out how come the compression is so low with the VCam. They told me that they have now swapped in some Kelford cams (without the VCam) and can achieve around 130psi compression and the low end torque is better, but now the engine is doughy as.  It boosts and peaks at more than 1000rpm slower, with twin HKS GTIII RS, it doesn't get full boost until over 5000rpm. I have always thought the VCam was a bit disappointing at the low rpm. To a point I had to ride the clutch a fair bit to get up a small hill from stand still.  That was when I had a clutch.  Now changing to a 8HP, I don't have that luxury and this problem has become a major issue. I am beginning to think the VCam never work since the day it was installed.  Maybe it was just sitting at the most advanced point, that is why it went good at top end but very ordinary at the bottom.  Therefore, with the help of the Holinger 6 speed and paddle shift, as long as it was moving, it drove pretty good.
×
×
  • Create New...