Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im selling a 1998 nissan skyline r34 coupe 1998 gt model. (106756kms)

$3000 for the whole car dont have the cash nor time to fix it.

there are a few problems with the exterior as stated below

front bar which connect the front bumper was taken off due to being stuck in the sand an the tow truck accedinelty ripped of the front bar with the front bumper qouted at 4000 dollars from a panel beater but im sure if your a repairer you can repair it much cheaper.

the right blinker was ripped off but is easily repaired i have both blinkers but the right blinker just needs to be rewired which was qouted 100 dollars

back bumper needs to be replaced an the licence plate was pushed in abit but theres not much damaged there easily repaired.

needs new headlights on both sides qouted at 800 dollars.

theres only 1 default on the performance side an that is the transmission solarnoid just needs to be replaced which was qouted 800 dollars from power roads car sales in dandenong.

the car can be purchased if your willing to fix the problems an if your a repairer this would be a nice easy project for you to get the car back to perfect state or would absolutely be perfect if you looking for parts espeically with the performance side which there is only the solarnoid defect.

the car drives very well the power steering to the brakes to the engine all in great working order with no oil leaks and never had em.

mods:

tail lights are east bear l.e.d gtr lights

3 month old bridgestone tyranza tyres with stock nissan wheels.

sony mp3,wma, cd fm/am head unit with aux

electric sunroof

drift canon with stock pipes.

comes with top secret front bumper.

location victoria. message me by email [email protected] or pm me thanks. mobile:0425497044.

(pictures attached)

post-76553-1283407394_thumb.jpg

post-76553-1283407506_thumb.jpg

post-76553-1283407590_thumb.jpg

post-76553-1283407695_thumb.jpg

post-76553-1283407783_thumb.jpg

post-76553-1283407931_thumb.jpg

post-76553-1283408011_thumb.jpg

post-76553-1283408110_thumb.jpg

post-76553-1283408212_thumb.jpg

post-76553-1283408325_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/335285-1998-r34-sklyine-non-turbo/
Share on other sites

how much for the east bear tail lights buddy

pm me ur price

hay mate also i really really need the driver seat belt, just the section that connects to the actual seat and the bolts that come with it

hopefully speak soon about it

cheers

julz

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You would probably do a lot better in a claims process then most people. When I called the insurance company, they were surprised I read the pds because according to them almost no one does lol.
    • Yeah it should be, but I wouldn't be surprised if the insurance company tries to pull some argument out of their ass to avoid paying you out.
    • On some cars like MR2 Turbos they're notorious for not letting the wastegate open far enough to avoid overboost, especially certain cheap downpipes. If adjusting "percentage cycle" fixes it then it's just an electronic control issue, not a hardware one.
    • Same.  It's depressing to say this but the skyline can go months on the charger between drives. 
    • I often leave mine connected weeks at a time. The main one I use is the old model of this, it has 2 important features - choose battery chemistry other than lead acid (most of mine are AGM) - power supply mode which you can use to try and recover dead flat batteries as "smart" chargers often don't recognise a dead flat battery is connected https://www.projecta.com.au/products/IC10/intellicharge-10a-bat-chgr The Ctek I  use was meant to have a battery test mode as well but it doesn't work 100% of the time so I am pissed at them. The distributor did everything possible to make warranty and support difficult so I'll stay away in future. The main thing with a "trickle" charger is it has multi stage programs, ie once the battery is full it turns the current right down to just maintain the charge....in the old days we just used real "trickle" chargers for that which had a maximum output of say 500mA which was safe to just leave connected to dumb old lead batteries.
×
×
  • Create New...