Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Rb20det Lifters

Subby

By Subby,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Subby Apprentice

Subby

Posted
Posted

Hi guys, hopefully someone will be able to lead me down the right path..

I have an rb20det, which is running all good, one big problem though, the lifters are noisy as F*&K, any ideas on how to replace or repair them on the cheaper side, been quoted over $100 each from nissan, with 24 lifters equates to nearly $2500. Don't really want to be spending that much just on lifters. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/335306-r32-rb20det-lifters/
Share on other sites
t_revz Grand Master

t_revz

Posted
Posted

mine is rb25 but i went to nissan and told em to jam it. ended up coming good for me so havent chnged em but when i was looking i found aftermarket sets for 700ish. but have heard a few people say that if they are removed and the gunk cleaned off and re-fit normally quietens em down unless they have wear marks... detailed write up in the manual how to remove and re-fit if you have some tools and can grab a copy of the manual.

t_revz Grand Master

t_revz

Posted
Posted

looks good. mine have been sitting in oil for a bit and was going to do them later but might follow that link and do them next weekend. but i thnk i will use contact cleaner and spray them down rather than the carby cleaner if it takes 2 hours and the basket only holds 1 lifter at a time.

Dobz Experienced

Dobz

Posted
Posted

Thats how you do it, the only thing i did differently is when bleeding them them instead of pouring oil into the lower lifter body making a bit of a mess and then trying to reasemble an oily lifter i reasssembled them dry and then put them in a flat tray upright and poured oil in until the tops were submerged. You'll see little bubbles start coming out of the cam lube hole on top of each one which means the oil is filling up the lifter, cover them over and leave it for about an hour untill the bubbles have stopped and once they have you can install them.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • dbm7
      R33 GTS25 NA - Stalling when vehicle is at operating temp

      By dbm7 · Posted

      For sure the later RB26 variants had a different setup (6 cam voltage sender?), but the RB25DE/DET share the same ECU pinout/PCB footprint, and at the ECU plug it ends up being 'throttle sensor in' & 'throttle sensor out' (to A/T TCU) ...you stick a multimeter on these pins and you'll find them directly connected (0 ohms) ; I had an pair of Nissan ECUs on the bench long ago, and I noticed this throttle sensor in/out link, actually linked to an op-amp ...which was unpopulated on the NA board, but present on the T board and I went 'ah-ha!' in some moment of clarity... ...it wouldn't surprise me if they changed strategy here though (in the software and actual monitoring of this signal), because they did with other stuff (A/T signals).. and 0.45v as a trigger point makes sense, as that's what the external TCU units expect at idle ; kudos, thanks for that insight...I suppose it boils down to whether or not Consult can display real time data of that signal's voltage... ...in any event, it presents the same target...ie; rotate TPS unit to achieve 0.45v to suit both ECU&TCU, and where do you goto from there? Just disconnect TPSwitch connector and/or that plus TPSensor connector....or do you go for the throat and disconnect IACV solenoid and see if it still stalls? (probably throws a recoverable fault code and goes for default idle strategy?)...
    • PotatoCake
      Exhaust silencers/varex exhausts

      By PotatoCake · Posted

      I’m also conscious that e85 is slowly being phased out. Not all United’s have them anymore. Can’t take the risk of being low on petrol and assuming the servo will have it. 
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      MR HAMMER has said his piece. Painted up to avoid Rusty Rusty. Actually lines up well. (i.e it lines up the same as the unmolested GTR guard). Turns out the GTR Strut brace does foul on the bonnet vents ever so slightly. May need a little bendy bendy if intended to keep using with a strut brace. So spacing it out to clear the FAST102 is not an option. Annoyingly, the bonnet vents also foul on the heater lines running over the engine. Given this engine does not EVER require a heater, a delete loop is going to be used. Don't worry, the defogger uses the AC. The heater is basically "Do not use the aircon and turn the fan on". It will still be effective, I promise.... once I get the system regassed... Will have to revisit with unvented bonnet I suppose, and suitable strut brace. There's plans to do this and other things tonight and bleed brakes (there was a weep) and put the bumper back on, and take Good Friday morning - Because troubleshooting on the side of the road limping it home at midnight tonight is ... not very smart.
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      Thank you all for you assistance. I contacted Nistune regarding the support for the RB20DE along with my ECU Code (23710-10U00). They do have a map for it and added the RB20DE as a purchasable option now as well. They also added Malta as a Billing and Delivery options as this was missing. I was honestly amazed at their quick response and action, it took less than 24 hours. I also looked again at direct fit options for injectors, just in case I were to replace them. DeatschWerks seem to use a Bosch EV14 base and makes ones that fit mine at 440cc lowest, but also have 550cc at the same price. I tried looking for other direct fit options and managed to find one (also Bosch EV14 based) which includes a plug and play adapter on ebay. Did a small test with a Noid Light on the troubled injectors and all seems good, so they are pulsing properly electrically. One weird part is that they are missing on the same two cylinders as before I got the injectors cleaned. Mechanic also found this weird as he did not label the injectors and it is unlikely to have the faulty injectors be installed in the same cylinders.  
×
×
  • Create New...