Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

you're kind of right and kind of wrong there, fyi

the oil system is closed so it doesn't matter whether you take a reading on the pressure from the sensor in the block or from an aftermarket gauge that has it's sensor in an oil sandwhich plate between the block and oil filter, it should be exactly the same reading no matter where it's taken from

a leak will allow pressure to release from the whole system so it won't matter where you sensor is you will be able to see the change in pressure.

your joking right, the leak was from the cam covers? by your logic you could plumb your oil pressure gauge into the pcv piping and it should be accurate.....

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

your joking right, the leak was from the cam covers? by your logic you could plumb your oil pressure gauge into the pcv piping and it should be accurate.....

Yeah my oil pressure gauge is in my catch can cause i didnt wanna drill into my rocker cover ;):)

As said earlier, the standard 32 oil gauge is just there for show unless you cough up the $170 odd for a new sender plus fitting. Lets face it, if the oil pressure was really that low, the engine would be dead..

As said earlier, the standard 32 oil gauge is just there for show unless you cough up the $170 odd for a new sender plus fitting. Lets face it, if the oil pressure was really that low, the engine would be dead..

Thats what i was thinking i figured i would at least be able to hear some knocking or something.

Wednesday im going to hook up an aftermarket oil press gauge, i will let u know what happens. but for now i have to just hope its not the oil pump.

you're kind of right and kind of wrong there, fyi

the oil system is closed so it doesn't matter whether you take a reading on the pressure from the sensor in the block or from an aftermarket gauge that has it's sensor in an oil sandwhich plate between the block and oil filter, it should be exactly the same reading no matter where it's taken from

a leak will allow pressure to release from the whole system so it won't matter where you sensor is you will be able to see the change in pressure.

lol..

Mechanic finally got around to reading my oil pressure and it was the gauge playing up. :thumbsup::P:(:D Oil pressure is still a little bit low but nothing to worry about, i think its just because its due for an oil change. It has 10W40 thats a year old.

Yeah the factory oil pressure gauge is a bit hopeless sometimes. Mine goes down to zero every now and then. Always scares the shit out of me but I soon realise it's just the gauge being gay and after a bit of a bootful it returns to normal lol.

Edited by PM-R33

i have only read the first page

this is normal, mine reads the same, sometimes double, guages are always faulty

when warm mine sits in the middle of the first section like ur image, then when running goes up, but hey maybe my oil pressure is to low lol

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

I've red this thred, and i own a r33 gtst with a n1 oil pump and i have the same problem, i use mobil one 15w-50 full synthetic oil.

Is this model of the skyline prone to a bad gauge as well? after a good beating the car oil pressure is midddle of 0-quarter mark. I'm thinking of dropping the crank changing out my acl bearings for new ones, change the oil pump to a greddy unit that i have. and while i'm at it, place a crank collar on the crankshaft for the new pump.

What is the recomembed oil pressure in psi at idle for a gtst, as i will check it with a manual gauge first?

Mine sits at like 30-50psi I think on idle depending on temp.

I'm looking at changing the pressure sender to something aftermarket so the gauge reads more accurately and also to hook up to the Vipec as an input so if it detects oil pressure to be too low to shut down the engine.

Edited by PM-R33
Mine sits at like 30-50psi I think on idle depending on temp.

I'm looking at changing the pressure sender to something aftermarket so the gauge reads more accurately and also to hook up to the Vipec as an input so if it detects oil pressure to be too low to shut down the engine.

has any thing changed are you running, a n1 oil pump? like i am.

I like you wheels mate, if you don't mind can you let me know the specs on them size name and type offset front and rear tyre size.

thanks looks like 10 j in the rear. I'm guessing that there s1's.

has any thing changed are you running, a n1 oil pump? like i am.

I like you wheels mate, if you don't mind can you let me know the specs on them size name and type offset front and rear tyre size.

thanks looks like 10 j in the rear. I'm guessing that there s1's.

before you go changing oil pump and bearings and crank collar etc spend $200 on a quality oil pressure gauge and sensor. mount it, check it and see what is really happening with your cars oil pressure. the factory guages can be great, or they can be shithouse. but even when in tip top condition they are painfully slow to react (this is so normal drivers don't get scared by the rapid changes in oil pressure). buy a proper gauge and then decide if you really have a problem or not.

like a few others my guage show really low sometimes. i was just wondering what the pressure should be at while idling n driving on highways and such! after reading this thread im going to try get an aftermarket oil pressure guage today and check it all properly but i need to know what would be classed as a good pressure?? thanks guys

Ok guys I did it, I placed a 3way splitter where the original sending unit was on one end, I added -4 an adapter on the other end, I changed the oil and filter Mobil one 15w-50, I then started it up and, it went to 85 psi right away, after letting it idle for a while it sat at 65psi for a long time. At this point it wasn't too warm, so I took it for a ride at 26psi of boost, beat it a little, and then return home. The factory gauge was sitting just slightly under the quarter mark, and the analog gauge that I add was reading 40 psi. From what I read this should be fine.

It wasn't easy getting these fittings to fit. There is no room, and I found it easier to do it with the filter off, so that's why I just changed the oil. the gauge i added does have a faster response than the factory one. After i drive the car for a little while more, and the oil wears a little, and the factory gauage goes to half of the quarter mark, thats when i will let you know my findings. thats the test piont. nismo N1 oil pump is what i have.

thanks everyone for all your help.

Edited by MJTru

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • First up, I wouldn't use PID straight up for boost control. There's also other control techniques that can be implemented. And as I said, and you keep missing the point. It's not the ONE thing, it's the wrapping it up together with everything else in the one system that starts to unravel the problem. It's why there are people who can work in a certain field as a generalist, IE a IT person, and then there are specialists. IE, an SQL database specialist. Sure the IT person can build and run a database, and it'll work, however theyll likely never be as good as a specialist.   So, as said, it's not as simple as you're thinking. And yes, there's a limit to the number of everything's in MCUs, and they run out far to freaking fast when you're designing a complex system, which means you have to make compromises. Add to that, you'll have a limited team working on it, so fixing / tweaking some features means some features are a higher priority than others. Add to that, someone might fix a problem around a certain unrelated feature, and that change due to other complexities in the system design, can now cause a new, unforseen bug in something else.   The whole thing is, as said, sometimes split systems can work as good, and if not better. Plus when there's no need to spend $4k on an all in one solution, to meet the needs of a $200 system, maybe don't just spout off things others have said / you've read. There's a lot of misinformation on the internet, including in translated service manuals, and data sheets. Going and doing, so that you know, is better than stating something you read. Stating something that has been read, is about as useful as an engineering graduate, as all they know is what they've read. And trust me, nearly every engineering graduate is useless in the real world. And add to that, if you don't know this stuff, and just have an opinion, maybe accept what people with experience are telling you as information, and don't keep reciting the exact same thing over and over in response.
    • How complicated is PID boost control? To me it really doesn't seem that difficult. I'm not disputing the core assertion (specialization can be better than general purpose solutions), I'm just saying we're 30+ years removed from the days when transistor budgets were in the thousands and we had to hem and haw about whether there's enough ECC DRAM or enough clock cycles or the interrupt handler can respond fast enough to handle another task. I really struggle to see how a Greddy Profec or an HKS EVC7 or whatever else is somehow a far superior solution to what you get in a Haltech Nexus/Elite ECU. I don't see OEMs spending time on dedicated boost control modules in any car I've ever touched. Is there value to separating out a motor controller or engine controller vs an infotainment module? Of course, those are two completely different tasks with highly divergent requirements. The reason why I cite data sheets, service manuals, etc is because as you have clearly suggested I don't know what I'm doing, can't learn how to do anything correctly, and have never actually done anything myself. So when I do offer advice to people I like to use sources that are not just based off of taking my word for it and can be independently verified by others so it's not just my misinterpretation of a primary source.
    • That's awesome, well done! Love all these older Datsun / Nissans so rare now
    • As I said, there's trade offs to jamming EVERYTHING in. Timing, resources etc, being the huge ones. Calling out the factory ECU has nothing to do with it, as it doesn't do any form of fancy boost control. It's all open loop boost control. You mention the Haltech Nexus, that's effectively two separate devices jammed into one box. What you quote about it, is proof for that. So now you've lost flexibility as a product too...   A product designed to do one thing really well, will always beat other products doing multiple things. Also, I wouldn't knock COTS stuff, you'd be surprised how many things are using it, that you're probably totally in love with As for the SpaceX comment that we're working directly with them, it's about the type of stuff we're doing. We're doing design work, and breaking world firsts. If you can't understand that I have real world hands on experience, including in very modern tech, and actually understand this stuff, then to avoid useless debates where you just won't accept fact and experience, from here on, it seems you'd be be happy I (and possibly anyone with knowledge really) not reply to your questions, or input, no matter how much help you could be given to help you, or let you learn. It seems you're happy reading your data sheets, factory service manuals, and only want people to reinforce your thoughts and points of view. 
    • I don't really understand because clearly it's possible. The factory ECU is running on like a 4 MHz 16-bit processor. Modern GDI ECUs have like 200 MHz superscalar cores with floating point units too. The Haltech Nexus has two 240 MHz CPU cores. The Elite 2500 is a single 80 MHz core. Surely 20x the compute means adding some PID boost control logic isn't that complicated. I'm not saying clock speed is everything, but the requirements to add boost control to a port injection 6 cylinder ECU are really not that difficult. More I/O, more interrupt handlers, more working memory, etc isn't that crazy to figure out. SpaceX if anything shows just how far you can get arguably doing things the "wrong" way, ie x86 COTS running C++ on Linux. That is about as far away from the "correct" architecture as it gets for a real time system, but it works anyways. 
×
×
  • Create New...