Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ive heard about people using a magical combination of nissan turbo housings and a specific cartridge to create this supernatural fabled turbo lol

i would like to know which ones ???

what size front inducer and exducer and what size rear

also any info on housing diameters and what is printed on them ie op6...mm? 45v1/2/3/4 ...mm? etc

and best combinations of said parts

but not limited to rbs any info atall would be great just wanna learn as much as possible as this really interests me

thanks guys

Mythical turbo? Supernatural fabled turbo?

I am not sure if you were drinking or smoking something last night but I bet your post made lots of sense when you typed it.

Seriously, WTF?

Turbos are air pumps.

What car, what engine, what use (daily/track/strip), what power level do you want?

Answer these questions and give the forum something to work with.

Standard nissan housings are used for convenience to allow the turbo to remain stock looking and are machined out with larger turbine and compressor wheels fitted. Hi-flowed turbos generally seem to struggle when larger than 450hp cores are fitted but there are hybrid housing from new castings or with compressor housing changes are making more power with a cost of downlow response.

There is lots of information on these topics from hypergears turbo thread somewhere just below this post through to wealth of posts over the last 7 years or so on what works and what doesn't.

lol

if you wanna learn, read through threads like the hypergear hi-flow thread here.

getting the right size turbo, you have to take many things into account:

engine size

target power

how the car is being used. ie. drift, street, drag etc

and many more

use the search function, as no doubt its been covered before

There are better threads to read than that one...unless he's after a mythical combo then perhaps he can read that thread...

Read page 39 of that tread. There is a mythical turbo there turns your RB25 into a V8. lol

Edited by kwickr33
ive heard about people using a magical combination of nissan turbo housings and a specific cartridge to create this supernatural fabled turbo lol

Aaron from Sliding Performance used to rebuild turbz that worked quite well on RB25s using machined VG30 housings and Biaggio CHRAs, until it became nearly impossible to find cheap VG30 comp/turbine housings

As ppl have said, the Hypergear rebuild using machined O.E RB25T housings and their specific CHRA seems to be the go on a budget these days

hahaha i was just trying to get your attention, worked though hey, mythical....bahaha

im looking for info on the housings and cartridges inducer and exducer mesurements that is all

ive heard of people using different combinations to acheive quite a nice power figure around the 240kw mark with great response

i hear the 45v4 front and op6 rear is the largest is this true? what are the the mesurements and what cartridge has the largest steel front and rear wheels

Step 1, Initialize SAU

Step 2, Forums

Step 3, Forced induction

Step 4, Quick Ref Guide

Step 5, $350 Turbo - 250rwkw (RB25DET)

Step 6, Dont waste your time.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/35...-9b-t22706.html

Good read, exactly the thread you are looking for. Has links to other relevant threads too I believe.

You will need access to a turbo re builder willing to do the work for cheap. Housings will need to be machined, odd parts will need to be sourced, specific instructions given to builders etc. Last time I approached GCG with the exact specs they laughed at me, primarily due to the fact they were not confident enough they could do it. They did however urge me to have them high flow the turbo for me at a cost of roughly $2000.

Now if you want to be realistic you can spend about half that having hypergear do you a high flow. I am sure he will also use whatever mickey mouse wheels you ask him to.

If your serious about it, find the turbo that suits your expectations as per the dyno thread and never look back.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...yno-t55845.html

hahaha i was just trying to get your attention, worked though hey, mythical....bahaha

Nah, were you pissed or stoned weren't ya.

Why you would want to make your own mongrel when the turbo shops have done the work with their own hi-flows or you can buy an off the shelf item from Garrett or Hks beats me.

240rwkw is firmly in GCG hi-flow range, HKS GT-RS in ball bearing or Hypergear can sort out one of his bushbearing turbos and you can benefit from their R&D.

Problem solved.

240rwkw is firmly in GCG hi-flow range, HKS GT-RS in ball bearing or Hypergear can sort out one of his bushbearing turbos and you can benefit from their R&D.

Not to mention hypergear have had some very impressive results of late!

As stated, go with the results that have the R&D to back.

Step 1, Initialize SAU

Step 2, Forums

Step 3, Forced induction

Step 4, Quick Ref Guide

Step 5, $350 Turbo - 250rwkw (RB25DET)

Step 6, Dont waste your time.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/35...-9b-t22706.html

Good read, exactly the thread you are looking for. Has links to other relevant threads too I believe.

You will need access to a turbo re builder willing to do the work for cheap. Housings will need to be machined, odd parts will need to be sourced, specific instructions given to builders etc. Last time I approached GCG with the exact specs they laughed at me, primarily due to the fact they were not confident enough they could do it. They did however urge me to have them high flow the turbo for me at a cost of roughly $2000.

Now if you want to be realistic you can spend about half that having hypergear do you a high flow. I am sure he will also use whatever mickey mouse wheels you ask him to.

If your serious about it, find the turbo that suits your expectations as per the dyno thread and never look back.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...yno-t55845.html

thanks mate ...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Surely the merged entity will be called "Honda" given the relative company values. I've got to be honest, I don't understand how merging 2 companies that missed EVs (despite Nissan making the first mass produced one) will solve their problems
    • If you haven't bought the ECU yet, I would strongly consider buying a modern ECU. Yes it is very easy to setup and tune, however it is lacking many of the features of a modern ECU. The pro plug in is something like 10 or 12 years old now? Can't remember exactly but it is very dated now. In that time the Elite was released and now we have the Nexus platform.  I would strongly consider not buying the ECU that is 3 generations old now (especially as it isn't a cheap ECU!). 
    • Im happy for it as long as it means reanult gets the boot 
    • Sorry I should have been more clear with the previous post.  The block is a sanding block - picture something like this https://motorguard.com/product/motor-guard-bgr161-bgr16-1-rigid-psa-sanding-block-2-5-8-x-16/ The guide coat is the paint It's two separate things I was talking about, there is no "block guide coat". 
    • Maybe more accurately, you aren't just dulling the existing paint, you are giving the new paint something to 'grab on to'. By sanding the existing paint, you're creating a bunch of pores for the new paint to hook on to.  You can lay new paint over existing paint without sanding it, might last a year or two then sad times. The paint will peal/flake off in huge chunks. By sanding it, the new paint is able to hang onto it and won't flake off.  Depends on the primer you are using. When you buy your paint, as the paint supplier what grit of sand paper to use before you lay down the primer.  Use whatever you like as a guide coat. Pick a colour that really stands out in contrast to the paint. So say your sanding/painting a currently white car, using a black guide coat would work well. You very lightly lay the black guide coat down, then as you sand the car with the large block, all the high spots and low spots will stand out as the black paint is sanded off (or isn't sanded off).  When you buy your paint, hit up your supplier for recommendations for what paint to use for a guide coat if you're unsure what would work well with your setup. 
×
×
  • Create New...