Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

They are almost identical in size, if not the same front and back. But I can tell you a distinguishable difference. The R34's rarely fade but Brembos on Evo's have a horrible tendency to lose their colour very quickly for some reason. I'm guessing the clear they use were very poor.

They are pretty similar. The Evo ones are slightly larger though. Just.

And, they are a f**k load cheaper than GTR items.

You can pick up a pair of Evo 6/7/8 Fronts for as little as $250 NZD over here.

Good luck finding R34 GTR Brembos for that price.. $1K+++

Edited by gotRICE?
They are almost identical in size, if not the same front and back. But I can tell you a distinguishable difference. The R34's rarely fade but Brembos on Evo's have a horrible tendency to lose their colour very quickly for some reason. I'm guessing the clear they use were very poor.

GTS-T Sedan (Nick) told me that EVO Brembo's have a clear coat on them and over time, the heat boils it off + the weather...

They are pretty similar. The Evo ones are slightly larger though. Just.

And, they are a f**k load cheaper than GTR items.

You can pick up a pair of Evo 6/7/8 Fronts for as little as $250 NZD over here.

Good luck finding R34 GTR Brembos for that price.. $1K+++

Are the EVO Brembo's interchangeable on the GTR's?

As in, are they a straight swap / fit or will modification be needed?

Are the EVO Brembo's interchangeable on the GTR's?

As in, are they a straight swap / fit or will modification be needed?

Hvae a search in the brake section, plenty of info

They do not bolt on. The Evo front brembo's have larger pistons and external line. Much better caliper than the GTR ones.

GTS-T Sedan (Nick) told me that EVO Brembo's have a clear coat on them and over time, the heat boils it off + the weather...

Not really due to weather, i would say more of brake heat. Hard driving / tracking the evo causes the caliper colour to fade. Try going for 1 track day on a set of brand new brembo calipers on an evo and inspect the calipers at the end of the day.

Therefore, when inspecting an evo, by telling the colour of the calipers, u will know how hard the car has been driven.

Not really due to weather, i would say more of brake heat. Hard driving / tracking the evo causes the caliper colour to fade. Try going for 1 track day on a set of brand new brembo calipers on an evo and inspect the calipers at the end of the day.

Therefore, when inspecting an evo, by telling the colour of the calipers, u will know how hard the car has been driven.

Nah. They all just do it regardless of track use.

The Americans complained about it when the 7's were new, it was doing it daily driving.

My mates 8 he bought with 28K on the clock, they were ok, but after 6 months they were pink. No trackdays.

Had a v35 with brembos (almost identical to 34gtr brembos) and they were POS. Mates sti brembos crapped all over it then again his car was almost 200kg lighter and then the front calipers were considerably larger.

I did a fair bit of research on these a few weeks ago.

EVO 8 & 9 fronts use a 330x32mm disc

Evo 10 fronts use a 355x32mm disc

Used set of 4 calipers approx $750-800 delivered from US ebay. A set here usually sell for a bit more approx $1000

Custom made 2 peice rotor size 340-355mm x 32mm with hats suit $330+gst each

Custom made adaptor (dogbones) $250-300 front only

Braid lines to suit $120-200 front only

Most the calipers at this cheaper price have paint problems so will need to repaint them first. More cost

GTR disc are 324x30mm thick, so not really usable.

I looked at a set of front the other day and they are pretty big. I have 19x9.5 Rays GT-c's and they would probably not fit over a 355m disc due to a couple of reasons. The wheels being 2 peice have a set of nuts around the inside that will foul the caliper. Plus they are a "B" disc rim

The Brembo pad shape is fairly square opposed to a long rectangle pad like AP or similar, so this makes the brembo caliper quite bulky.

I decided in the end, when I get around to it, I can get a 6 piston Ap design copy caliper (not chinese made) with custom rotors, hats, apdators and braided lines fully fitted to suit my wheels for $2400 drive in drive out from BHSS in Brisbane

So do your research before you try them.

post-14923-1283806909_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...