Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah, just wondering what people use in their radiator, some some water is fine some say not some use additives like water wetter.

I just flushed it with a hose and filled it with water and a bottle of corrosion inhibitor

Do radiator flush additives work?

Is coolant really necessary?

What do you reccomend?

What works?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/335673-what-do-you-put-in-your-radiator/
Share on other sites

Yes I would use coolant or your water pump won't be too fantastic down the track and that water will turn brown :D

Water is for topping up or adding to coolant concentrate mixes. I'd only use it if I had no choice.

Rust and scale removers work alright when flushing.

Yeah i read something about coolant lubricating the pump, I usually use it but didnt realize i'd run out.

But i also read another guy says hes used nothing but water and redline water wetter for 10 years with no problems..

So just wondering what i should get to add to it

Edited by Arthur T3

definatly flush the system and use coolant, i use nulon long life coolant pre mixed $20 for 5 litres so you need 2... or u could by the concentrate and mix it yourself with demineralised water. tap water for flushing only....

in my old corolla pre 80s i use the corrosion inhibitor and water wasnt really designed to run coolant...

Yea one of the reasons you are suppost to use coolent is because it has a higher boiling point than water. The water will evaporate through the overflow bottle after long drives. I use rust repellant coolant, however if you have a corroded cooling system just buy the radiator flush and do it yourself shouldn't take long.

I only use straight water to flush the system. Once it's flushed I just pour in pre-mixed Nulon red along with 500ml of Motul Mo'Cool. Works fine for me and has kept the temps consistently lower during the hotter months.

Yeah i ran a bottle of flush through it for over half an hour, not sure if it made a difference, the water that came out was brown but so was the the flush mix i put in it.. :P

Another guy told me he just runs the engine with the hose stuck in the radiator.

I also read somewhere that plain water actually cools better.

But i do remember the old man topping up the radiator in the his HJ monaro all the time, He had to check it daily. I have never had to with coolant so i guess there is truth to what you say mr massive..I didnt know this b4..

orange juice

:)

never use tap water ever this is the worse thing u could do... oh l lie u could do worse: bleach, drain cleaner, fuel, fluorine gas, OJ.

the only water you should use is distilled water most good auto shops stock it in +10L bottles or just use the pre mix

flush with the tap - put the screw back in - fill it up with tap water + some radiator flush - turn engine on with radiator cap off - idle for a few mins - drain / flush with tap water - fill up with coolant + top up with distilled water.. has never failed me. (someone correct me if im wrong)

^^ yeah thats what i did..

Someone told me to fill the radiator with coca cola and then throw a packet of mentos in it. Apparently the reaction is really good for cleaning out the corrosion..

Has anyone tried this??

^^ yeah thats what i did..

Someone told me to fill the radiator with coca cola and then throw a packet of mentos in it. Apparently the reaction is really good for cleaning out the corrosion..

Has anyone tried this??

That someone has been watching "Mythbusters" too much. Diet Coke + Mentos = BANG.

That someone ought to be shot!

Wanna shotgun??? MORE BANG!!!

back in the day some mechanics i know used to use coca cola to flush radiators and even clean the oil stains off the floors. however doing that with the coke sold today and all you will end up with is a sticky mess. as with most things these days, they aren't as potent as they used to be.

....I also read somewhere that plain water actually cools better.....

absolutely right, water is about the best thing in the universe for taking energy and getting hot slowly. only 2 problems - stopping rust (corrosion inhibitor) and it freezes at 0.....

When I was having cooling problems I ran straight distilled water + redline water wetter, it ran literally 10-15o cooler than coolant.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...