Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey dude i have a type m bar that is red it has the centre cut out as i have a front mount but it has a little crack in it it can be fixed very easy, i am in melb if u know how i could get it to u let me know though and dont know how much 4 it, i am trying to get a bar 4 my car if u know anyone who has a 400r thatd be great.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33571-r33-series1-fbar/#findComment-675844
Share on other sites

Thanks for the offer, but unfortunately the fbar has to be undamaged/unchanged when going through compliance :-(

But if you've got a pic of your car post it up, as I've never seen a Type M fbar with an FMIC fitted before (most people just buy different fbar) :-)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33571-r33-series1-fbar/#findComment-676689
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

I make front bars for gtr r33 and nizmo styles. the gtr bar will not bolt on straight away but the nizmo bar will fit on. They go for $300 ea. you can contact me on 0413 714 354 or [email protected]

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33571-r33-series1-fbar/#findComment-704534
Share on other sites

unfortunatly i dont have bomex or veilside, but i have a nizmo style kit on the way

yes i make the rear spoilers.

here is a look at the nizmo style front bar and sideskirts

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33571-r33-series1-fbar/#findComment-709709
Share on other sites

Thanks for the offer, but unfortunately the fbar has to be undamaged/unchanged when going through compliance :-(

But if you've got a pic of your car post it up, as I've never seen a Type M fbar with an FMIC fitted before (most people just buy different fbar) :-)

http://members.optushome.com.au/jay51/Blac...0Bar2%20(1).jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33571-r33-series1-fbar/#findComment-712902
Share on other sites

Thanks for the offer, but unfortunately the fbar has to be undamaged/unchanged when going through compliance :-(

But if you've got a pic of your car post it up, as I've never seen a Type M fbar with an FMIC fitted before (most people just buy different fbar) :-)

http://members.optushome.com.au/jay51/Blac...0Bar2%20(1).jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33571-r33-series1-fbar/#findComment-712911
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...