Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey, i've read the stickied thread for insurance, but it doesnt seem to have been updated recently, and not much that is helping me in my quest to get insurance quotes.

i have called

lumley special vehicles: no

famous: no (nobody under 30 as of 5 months ago)

shannons: $2,186 pa (this after a 10 minute bloody phone call building a 'profile' and proving i was a 'car enthusiast'.)

justcar: every one i speak to says 'just cars', and justcar has quoted $1,242 pa (27yr old, rating 1, no claims, 1 speeding fine in 5 years (5km/h over).

AAMI and GIO don't even list nissan stagea's in their online quote system, so i doubt it's worth bothering - so does anyone have any other leads?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/335742-anyone-other-than-justcar/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

shannons are usually the cheapest but you have to be in a car "club" and over 25 (sau counts and you can be under 25)

i think they are underwritten by aami like justcar so the price should be the same

i'm with justcar and its about 1,400 / year paying by the month (~$130/month) (20 y/o, rating 3ish, no claims, couple of points lost)

with justcar, you have to have an aust standards immobiliser that is installed by a pro

shannons is underwritten by AAI. and they were not the cheapest - over $2k. i told them i was a member of NDSOC, and i am over 25, so if that is the best they can do then i'd be interested to hear who is getting cheapest prices off them.

justcars is undewritten by AAMI. the car is fitted with a blackwired alarm so should be no dramas there. i can get the price down lower if i want to pay more excess, which is what i might do ultimately. i'm really only insuring against the financial loss of the car, so that if i do total the car - i can at least get some money back to get another car so i can get to and from work every day.

shannons is underwritten by AAI. and they were not the cheapest - over $2k. i told them i was a member of NDSOC, and i am over 25, so if that is the best they can do then i'd be interested to hear who is getting cheapest prices off them.

justcars is undewritten by AAMI. the car is fitted with a blackwired alarm so should be no dramas there. i can get the price down lower if i want to pay more excess, which is what i might do ultimately. i'm really only insuring against the financial loss of the car, so that if i do total the car - i can at least get some money back to get another car so i can get to and from work every day.

through shannons mine was $1600 with mods last year i am 27 in a bad suburb and lost license 1 time 1 claim for mrs and nrma are wanting our business so and are willing to beat them this year but last year wanted $2500

The Just Cars quote sounds reasonable.

The only company that can match that, is Guild Insurance but contingent upon you being in the health industry or that one of your parents is a Dr/Chemist and has is insurance with them with surgery/chemist/car/house. They insure grey imports if you meet the above criteria. More info can be supplied...

I am with shannons with most of all my mods listed

Only paying $1276/year 65% NCB for 2 cars and that covers my stagea ($21000) and 2009 Kluger ($45000)

Also have house and contents to get multiple policy discounts

The Just Cars quote sounds reasonable.

The only company that can match that, is Guild Insurance but contingent upon you being in the health industry or that one of your parents is a Dr/Chemist and has is insurance with them with surgery/chemist/car/house. They insure grey imports if you meet the above criteria. More info can be supplied...

my old man is a doctor and my old lady is a registered nurse? he owns his own practice, so there is a very good chance that might be helpful to me. can you send me some more details??

otherwise i'm going to go with justcars and bump the excess up.

my old man is a doctor and my old lady is a registered nurse? he owns his own practice, so there is a very good chance that might be helpful to me. can you send me some more details??

otherwise i'm going to go with justcars and bump the excess up.

I'm a pharmacist and I've had a 7-digit Client Number due to insuring stuff with Guild Insurance.

My son is in market research (-not in health industry - and he's 27 too). He owns a GT-R and was paying over $2K insurance with Just Car.

After I visited Guild Insurance at St Leonards, they checked my background > then asked for current proof of my son's insurance and driving record > his premium has now dropped to $950pa. He now has a Client Number.

Guild Insurance simply wants to reduce their risk of payouts by focussing on a particular demographic.

Shannons does it by insuring enthusiasts.

Guild does it by insuring people in the health industry.

In essence, if your father or mother insures anything at all (with Guild), they'll get a Client Number. Then I assume, you can piggyback him/her.

Shannons for $1134.54 per yr. 65% NCD, $500 Basic excess, and includes my mods.

Same here with me at Shannons :D they are more flexible and give agreed value.

Just cars are tight wads and would not insure over $14000 but would happily take $1300 off me!

Stoooopid RACV wanted $2400 a year and would only insure it for something equally as stoooopid around $6000.

I actually said down the phone "F.... Off your trying to rip me off!! I'll be going to a respectable company" and hung up on him.

It's a shame GIO custom cars closed shop earlier this year was getting $575 full comp $17500 agreed for last 3 years :)

ok, so why did shannons give me such a b/s price then? i told them i was a car enthusiast, had been involved with clubs, and even been an organiser for the 2001 skyline nationals in shepparton. yet still they quote over 2k without even asking the purchase price. i spoke politely and honestly, so what gives?

i can get it as low as 855 with justcars, just means i'll have a 2000 excess which to me is acceptable risk. any damage less than 2k i would fix myself anyway.

ok, so why did shannons give me such a b/s price then?

What mods do you have? Driving history? Previous accidents? Previous insurance claims? Age? Location of car? It could be any of these and others I can't think of. As to the quote you got from Shannon's, your guess is as good as mine.

What mods do you have? Driving history? Previous accidents? Previous insurance claims? Age? Location of car? It could be any of these and others I can't think of. As to the quote you got from Shannon's, your guess is as good as mine.

i'm 27, nil accidents, nil claims, have had one speeding fine in the last 5 years (5km/h over, fixed camera on the freeway) - and the car will be garaged in an underground security gated carpark in southbank. i pretty much DEFINE the perfect insurance candidate.

i've also had two other policies with justcar before, both for turbo skylines from the age of 21 till 24. every year the policy price dropped significantly so hopefully this is the case again this time.

geeez, i went through that with a lady at Shannons 3 yrs ago but at $1100 and she said your not an enthusiast ....not insuring you, i thought get stuffed (wasn't gonna rant about myself what i've done car wise), so that's when I rang GIO and got put through to custom car section. bargain ....also only just started to cover Vic. customers about a month prior.

when I rang Shannons this year around Feb no hassle whatsoever, was very happy with the customer service and

flexibility with the policy. Guess try calling them again and hope for another person?

ok, so why did shannons give me such a b/s price then? i told them i was a car enthusiast, had been involved with clubs, and even been an organiser for the 2001 skyline nationals in shepparton. yet still they quote over 2k without even asking the purchase price. i spoke politely and honestly, so what gives?

i can get it as low as 855 with justcars, just means i'll have a 2000 excess which to me is acceptable risk. any damage less than 2k i would fix myself anyway.

Guess try calling them again and hope for another person?

i've heard of people doing this and getting their quote down over successive calls. just goes to show though, that they must be fairly arbitrary with their quoting.

if i sign up for an SAU membership today, i bet that will knock money off - but i honestly don't understand the logic behind that - belonging to a club that does khana's, drag day's and is generally performance driving oriented , and that drops my premium??

the other option i'm considering is calling them and playing my justcar quote against theres and seeing if they will match. i'd much rather go with shannons because of their lifetime repair guarantee, and choice of repairer.

I switched to Shannons from Just Cars a few months back. They were marginally dealer (somewhere around $1200 I think), but things like free windscreen are nice. I've also put my wife's Mini with them and now the house and contents to get multi-policy discount. I just told them that I go to a few motoring events and do my own maintenance. The guy on the phone even knew what a Stagea 260RS was and also knew what a John Cooper Works kit is on a Mini :)

I tried to get mine with Shannon's but they just said, if your car isn't garaged in a lockup garage. then piss off. and basically hung up on me. :)

so I'm still with Just Cars. premium is about $1000, with $1000 excess.. not too bad considering... >.<

ah well, looks like unfortunately i'll just have to go with whoever is cheaper.

i would like to go shannons, but its just disappointing that even despite their obviously stringent check process and 'hand picking' of their customers, they still have significantly higher premiums. where as justcars, which obviously is the 'go to' for every other import owner, including all the hoons and young 'at risk' drivers is still the cheapest. i guess the only way to voice my protest is with my wallet when i take my business elsewhere.

anyway, enough complaining. at the end of the day i just hope i never have to use the insurance!

shannons are not bad

i am with just cars for the stagea but have my bluebird through them although even with the multiple policies just car still wins by $200 per year.

i have an imobiliser fitted by a certified installer - garaged - but i dont care for the stag that much, its just a nice car that does what i want when i want it to - if it goes bye bye - i just want to recover my costs (or 90% of) - about $900 p/y with the 23y/o mrs as a nominated driver.

the blue has agreed value, full comp, full list of ALL of my mods and it was cheaper than 3 party with fire and theft. i struggled to find anyone who would touch it or if they did give me anything above redbook value which is 5/8 of F*** all!

mind you if something happened to this car i would cry for days in the shower slowly rocking back and forth.

Shannons are not bad at all, infact i am quite happy with their service - just like to have the stag with them but that $200 i can spend on rego or something.

Try if you have home insurance, to see if your company will take on the import - some do.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah. For something like boost control I wouldn't start my design with PID. I'd go with something that originates in the fuzzy logic world and use an emergency function or similar concept. PID can and does work, but at its fundamental level it is not suited to quick action. I'd be reasonably sure that the Profecs et al all transitioned to a fuzzy algorithm back in the 90s. Keep in mind also that where and when I have previously talked about using a Profec, I'm usually talking about only doing an open loop system anyway. All this talk of PID and other algorithms only comes into play when you're talking closed loop boost control, and in the context of what the OP needs and wants, we're probably actually in the realm of open loop anyway. Closed loop boost control has always bothered me, because if you sense the process value (ie the boost measurement that you want to control) in the plenum (after the throttle), then boost control to achieve a target is only desirable at WOT. When you are not WOT, you do not want the the boost to be as high as it can be (ie 100% of target). That's why you do not have the throttle at WO. You're attempting to not go as fast as you can. If the process variable is measured upstream of the throttle (ie in an RB26 plenum, or the cold side pipework in others) then yeah, sure, run the boost controller closed loop to hit a target boost there, and then the throttle does what it is supposed to do. Just for utter clarity.... an old Profec B Spec II (or whatever it is called, and I've got one, and I never look at it, so I can't remember!) and similar might have a MAP sensor, and it might show you the actual boost in the plenum (when the MAP sensor is connected to the plenum) but it does not use that value to decide what it is doing to control the boost, except to control the gating effect (where it stops holding the gate closed on the boost ramp). It's not closed loop at all. Once the gate is released, it's just the solenoid flailing away at whatever duty cycle was configured when it was set up. I'm sure that there are many people who do not understand the above points and wonder wtf is going on.  
    • This has clearly gone off on quite a tangent but the suggestion was "go standalone because you probably aren't going to stop at just exhaust + a mild tune and manual boost controller", not "buy a standalone purely for a boost controller". If the scope does in fact stop creeping at an EBC then sure, buy an EVC7 or Profec or whatever else people like to run and stop there. And I have yet to see any kind of aftermarket boost control that is more complicated than a PID controller with some accounting for edge cases. Control system theory is an incredibly vast field yet somehow we always end up back at some variant of a PID controller, maybe with some work done to linearize things. I have done quite a lot, but I don't care to indulge in those pissing matches, hence posting primary sources. I deal with people quite frequently that scream and shout about how their opinion matters more because they've shipped more x or y, it doesn't change the reality of the data they're trying to disagree with. Arguing that the source material is wrong is an entirely separate point and while my experience obviously doesn't matter here I've rarely seen factory service manuals be incorrect about something. It's not some random poorly documented internal software tool that is constantly being patched to barely work. It's also not that hard to just read the Japanese and double check translations either. Especially in automotive parts most of it is loanwords anyways.
    • If you are keeping the current calipers you need to keep the current disc as the spacing of the caliper determines the disc diameter. Have you trial fitted the GTS brakes fit on a GTSt hub or is this forward planning? There could be differences in caliper mount spacing, backing plate and even hub shape that could cause an issue.
    • Hi there I have a r33 gts with 4 stud small brakes, I'm going to convert to 5 stud but keep the small brakes, what size rotor would I need?
    • First up, I wouldn't use PID straight up for boost control. There's also other control techniques that can be implemented. And as I said, and you keep missing the point. It's not the ONE thing, it's the wrapping it up together with everything else in the one system that starts to unravel the problem. It's why there are people who can work in a certain field as a generalist, IE a IT person, and then there are specialists. IE, an SQL database specialist. Sure the IT person can build and run a database, and it'll work, however theyll likely never be as good as a specialist.   So, as said, it's not as simple as you're thinking. And yes, there's a limit to the number of everything's in MCUs, and they run out far to freaking fast when you're designing a complex system, which means you have to make compromises. Add to that, you'll have a limited team working on it, so fixing / tweaking some features means some features are a higher priority than others. Add to that, someone might fix a problem around a certain unrelated feature, and that change due to other complexities in the system design, can now cause a new, unforseen bug in something else.   The whole thing is, as said, sometimes split systems can work as good, and if not better. Plus when there's no need to spend $4k on an all in one solution, to meet the needs of a $200 system, maybe don't just spout off things others have said / you've read. There's a lot of misinformation on the internet, including in translated service manuals, and data sheets. Going and doing, so that you know, is better than stating something you read. Stating something that has been read, is about as useful as an engineering graduate, as all they know is what they've read. And trust me, nearly every engineering graduate is useless in the real world. And add to that, if you don't know this stuff, and just have an opinion, maybe accept what people with experience are telling you as information, and don't keep reciting the exact same thing over and over in response.
×
×
  • Create New...