Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

its a r34 gtt with a r33 gtr head and 3L bottomend.

i left a message on your ans machine and sent a msg to your mobile about my specs trent but here is is again.

rb26/30

gt35r .82

18psi

standard oem cams

standard valve springs

intake port matched and polished to runners

3.5" dump

3.5" straight pipe exhaust

5" cannon

cp pistons

spool rods

9:1 comp

cosmetic head gasket

china brand fmic with 3" intake side pipe 2.5 exhaust side pipe (my guess as to the problem but no proof or expertise to back it up)

Nismo Twinplate Coppermix clutch

splitfire coils

340rwkw

to be honest trent ive called a few shops and like the forums everyone seems to have different opinions as to why it wont make more then 340rwkw regardless of how much boost i dial in.

psi drop on cooler

head flow

valve springs

cams

rather then spending money on things i dont need i would like to get the car tested and what ever it needs, i can replace.

picturejg.th.jpg

Edited by Jap_Muscle

1st post - you wanna just start porting/polishing

By the 4th post you want to actually check whats going wrong... AMEN.

After 12 months of us all (in FI section) telling you to get the current setup checked by a knowlegeable professional, it seems you are finally coming around!

Stop with the "I want to change stuff" and start with the "I need to FIX my current setup first".

We've been telling you for ages to get the cooler pressure drop & valve springs checked... :D

No offence with the above, I'm just totally at a loss as to why you've still not done anything that anyone has recommended for over a year

Trent - before looking much more into it, go over this guys past thread history and have a read of what people have tried to help with so far.

15mins reading will save you hours of rechecking :)

ash i just wanted to talk to someone about my porting and polishing options and wether or not i do really need it. i dont think you can fault me for trying to find out what i should do from a expert. but your right i have taken my time in seeking help but its not easy for us uni students. money isnt that free. although i do want to say sometimes to fix things i do need to change things.

moving forward though as i said id just like to talk to a professional on what the next step should be. Because really if i dont need springs why should i buy them. so i have officialy taken your advice and am seeking out experts to get my setup checked.

ive contacted Rob @ sab automotive, and i wouldnt mind getting trents throughts on things to.

cheers

Edited by Jap_Muscle

hmm i will listen to message when i get to work in the morn and check all the threads for things that have been covered. (was offsite all day today, out west actually)

being a 26 head it should be fairly straight forward. Just quickly whats the exhaust cam wheel set too?

hmm i will listen to message when i get to work in the morn and check all the threads for things that have been covered. (was offsite all day today, out west actually)

being a 26 head it should be fairly straight forward. Just quickly whats the exhaust cam wheel set too?

im not sure that was ever changed trent as its still running the standard oem rb26 cams.

Put a better quality intercooler in. Drop in some poncams. 360+ kw :D

the problem is that people people have made close to 400kw on standard cams. so really if its possible i dont want to waste my money on cams and lose out on bottom end torque, which is really where i want it all to be.

most likely ill need a 100mm intercooler.

With a 3ltr it will take a bit of cam compared to a 2.6, either way it is NOT the cause of your problems currently.

Depends on what work gets done to the head etc as to what specifically you put in there.

Yes you can play the uni card dude, but you don't build a 400rwkw setup working 4hrs flipping burgers @ maccers :P

You don't need to change anything ATM to fix whatever issues you have, simply because you don't yet know what is wrong.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As an ex-skyline owner Going off how these things are now "modern classics", I would keep the twins and just "refresh" bits that are required for reliable power and have a car you can take out for a cruise whenever you get the itch As a idiot who cannot leave things alone Going deep into the "rabbit hole" is a easy thing to do, as previously mentioned, once you start it becomes a slippery slope, wirh lots of supporting mods, and possibly rebuilds, and unless you have a bottomless pit of funds, the car can spend most of its life sitting in the garage,  broken, waiting for parts, or building more funds For a classic like a R32 GTR Basically, a reliable OEM+ refresh, that isn't a broken garage queen, is alot better than a car that you build, then break, then fix, then break again And it isn't just the engine you need to worry about, these beasties are getting on in age, and all parts are getting, and have got, expensive, the days of picking up cheap replacement engines and other driveline parts are well and truly over The funds not spent on going a single with quality parts, and with all the other other bits required to make it happen, could be spent on refreshing alot of other parts A wise man once said "If you cannot afford 2 GTR's, you cannot afford 1", I also believe he said this about 20 years ago when you could pick up a clean R32 GTR up for around $20k My advice for a R32 GTR (the one and only true Godzilla in my mind) is to think holistically about the whole car, the body, the power train, the suspension, the brakes, and the driveline SAU is a wealth of knowledge with decades of Skyline experience,  from stock, to OEM+, to modified to varying degrees, to full on or weekend or dedicated racecars, as well as full on money pits that rarely leave their garage Treat the old girl nice and give her what she deserves, you are a lucky man to own such a classic car  
    • For that price you could buy the hypergear turbo (big fan as I run one) and the Haltech ECU..
    • +1 for the Elite 2500. Get some new knock sensors while you are at it (pretty cheap), look up the TAARKS Nissan knock sensor kit. You may also want to get new coils (R35gtr) while your at it (assuming your on stock ones), as they are a liability. Mine started right up and idled fine on the base map. Also go MAP over MAF, as said above, Haltech make this super simple right out the box. Another fanboy of DBW here, Outsider Garage from your neck of the woods make some nice conversion gear for the R33 (that’s where I got some of my gear from).
    • Nvm ignore this I read it wrong
×
×
  • Create New...