Rear Camber Kit For The Lower Arms

[Turbz RB-25]

Hi Fellas,

I got my rear camber kit installed on the rears (upper arms the other day) fixed a fair bit of my traction issues. (Still got -2.00 on each side on the rears but)

However, my tyres sit like 3mm away from the guard.

Now I was wondering, if I got a camber kit installed on the lower arms, will this bring the bottom of the wheel in or the top of the wheel out (If you get what I'm trying to say?)

Reason I ask is because there is not much more room for adjustment as the top of the tyres is already so close to the guard, but I was thinking, since the camber kit will go on the lower arms, it won't actually push the top part of the wheel out more, rather, it'll pull the bottom part of the wheel in?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Cheers

[Kinks]

Generally they advise fitting the kit to the upper arms (inside and if necessary outside) but doing the second kit on the UCA will push the top of the wheel further out.

They don't mention doing anything to the LCA because the LCA has 2 inboard mounting bushes and you would have to change both of these meaning you need 1 whiteline bush kit for each side. It's also a bit more work to get to the LCA.

In theory it might work, but it depends on whether the LCA bushes are the same diameter and whether there is enough clearance for the LCA arms to come in a bit and not bind within their travel.

[HEKT1K]

I get what you are trying to say.

I reckon you will run into problems. Even if the wheel does 'pull in' predominantly from the bottom, the top will conversely move outwards. The only time this wouldn't happen is if the wheel was hinged to the suspension arms etc at the very top... which it's not.

Maybe get your guards pulled more or something?

[BI6TIM]

Also to keep in mind is, if you decrease track width you run the risk of "squashing up" the drive shafts, this will lead to shaft and diff damage.

If you want less negative camber on the rear get some rose jointed adjustable upper arms and some guard rolling.

[Kinks]

^^ yes it might - it wouldn't move as much as doing the top arms but your pivot point is the UCA joint at the top of the hub so the top will still move outwards.

the only way to narrow your overall track would be to fit LCA, UCA and traction rod adjustable arms but you would be up for a VERY expensive alignment and you would need to take it to someone specialised, your general tyre fitters won't know how to set the traction rods to minimise bump steer (dynamic toe). Even then I'm not sure if your driveshafts would have enough clearance to effectively allow them to be pushed further into the hub. probably impossible and definitely a fiendishly expensive exercise.

getting the guards pulled or living with 2 degrees is going to be much easier, I suspect. you could always *gasp* raise the car a bit to cure your camber issues.