Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

After another run in with the cops for my car being too loud I would like to make sure I reduce my chance of getting busted for anything else. I have two questions:

1. Pod Air Filter

I am told that my pod air filter is illegal. What is the deal with these, are they generally illegal? Its not covered or anything. Do I need to have it covered or boxed in to make it legal?

2. Front Mount

I want to get a front mount intercooler however after my latest run in dont want to make the car too noisy that will get me in trouble again. When I was tested for being loud I was at 91 decibels at 4800rpm (the limit was 90). I got a new exhaust and now the car is much quieter - the only thing you hear when you rev is the engine / pod filter. I want a intercooler but am wondering if this will make it too loud? What are peoples experiences here, how can I get a front mount and make it legal?

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/335934-street-legal-questions/
Share on other sites

depends on State to State, ring Road Authority in your State, ask for modifications ph number, write it down & store for further reference.

Its the only way you will know for sure mate-hope that helps.

Up here dry pods arent illegal-wet type ones are

if your in Victoria its illegal to THINK about modding your car, so you better stop thinking about it

they can read your mind...shhh you didnt hear this from me...Oh shit there's someone at the door i think they heard me , quick call the police actually no call ACA help me oprah help me tom cruise help me jesus nooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo

oooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo

Edited by Arthur T3
if your in Victoria its illegal to THINK about modding your car, so you better stop thinking about it

im in nsw

they can read your mind...shhh you didnt hear this from me...Oh shit there's someone at the door i think they heard me , quick call the police actually no call ACA help me oprah help me tom cruise help me jesus nooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo

oooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo

it comes down to what state. some states allow pods as long as they are secured with a bracket, and front mounts are fine as long as you haven't cut the bumper reo. other states will allow you 1 intake mod, so either a pod, or a fmic.

also a front mount won't alter how loud the car is.

Thanks for everyones answers much appreciated...

I think ill get rid of my pod and put back in the standard air box. I read elsewhere on this forum there is no real performance difference? Is changing them over easy to do?

Also when you say get the front mount engineered what do you mean? If I get a professional to put it in will they engineer it?

There are people around who will inspect the fmic fitment and sign off on it's safety.

As for the pod, should be pretty easy to take off and replace, the airbox fittings are all still there. It depends on how the piping has been changed. There is no performance gain, only performance loss, since sucking in cold air means sucking in less oxygen than the equivalent volume of cold air. Less oxygen leads to poorer combustion, which leads to less power. More importantly the hot air can promote pinging which will damage your engine.

yeah putting a pod on a daily car is a waste of time, yeah it may suck more air ( and sound better) but mostly its hot air instead of the cool air a standard snorkel is designed to breath..

pretty sure any FMIC should pass as long as its fitted decently....Which alot i see aren't

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, just just bought an 1999 enr34 with a stock rb25neo and I'm looking to upgrade the engine to 500whp I know some basic things but wondering if there are things I'll need to do to upgrade the stock block and all the bits and pieces to achieve this.
    • Thanks everyone for the replies and suggestions. Got the seats out (hoping I could find some existing grommets but no such luck). By tapping and measuring etc. I could figure out where I could drill through if needed. But first I borrowed an inspection camera and managed to go through factory holes in the chassis rail and could see that the captive nut was holding steady which is why it could retighten. So it was indeed a stripped section of thread, so I applied downforce by levering the bolt head with a screwdriver and went slowly back and forth until it came out. Camera helped a lot cos I could monitor that the captive nut was holding tight. Now I just have one very seized main subframe nut to tackle 😅
    • BOVs do have a purpose, if you ever log pressure before and after the throttle body, you will see a spike pre throttle on lift off from a WOT condition. Enough to bend throttle blades / damage e-throttle motors or simple assist in blowing off cooler pipes. FWIW, the above on really applies to those running at least 2 bar of boost. OP shouldn't have an issue, on the other hand, here are some videos of my shit box over a decade ago with some succulent dose with the airbox on and off. That shit box is unrecognisable these days 🫠    
    • I've tried all different combinations of BOVs/ no BOV and stock bypass valves over the years, on gear changes the stock bypass valve seems to get the car back on boost quicker because in part the turbos wheel speed isn't being slowed down by reversion, although they have issues holding boost much over the stock setting. Most aftermarket BOVs you can adjust the spring, tighter will make it open later and close sooner, but in my experience it'll cause a bit of flutter at low load/rpm anyway. I've also got some input into this whole no bov causing turbo wear, never had an issue on any on my turbos HOWEVER, I got my R33 GTST with 200k kms on it, with from what I can see still has the original turbo, no lateral shaft play but has about 4-5mm of play in and out which to me seems like a worn thrust bearing from years (100-150k kms?) of turbo flutter running no bov, so maybe there is some truth to it in the long run. But that'll never stop me loving the Stutututu while I have the car.   OP just wants to know if he can run a atmo vented BOV with no major issues and the answer is YES, plenty of people do it, there's no harm in installing it and seeing how it runs before spending $$$ on an aftermarket ecu, last time I bought a Nistune it was $2400 for install and a tune , unsure of todays prices but you get me. Crazy money to spend just to fix the minor inconvenience of stalling that can be overcome by letting the revs come down to near idle before putting the clutch in or a little bit of throttle to avoid it. You're better off leaving the ecu and tune for after a bigger turbo/injectors have been installed to take full advantage of the tune and get your moneys worth.   Let OP have his Whoosh sound without trying to break his bank haha
    • I see you missed the rest of the conversation where they have benefits, but nothing to do with avoiding breaking turbos, which is what the aftermarket BOV made all the fan boys, tuners, and modders believe was the only purpose for them...
×
×
  • Create New...